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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all,

Newb here. One thing that really bothers me about our cars is how far the clutch travels when depressed. It makes it very difficult to pick a comfortable sitting position and also puts strain on my back. For anyone that's been in a Golf, you know that clutch travel really shouldn't have to be that much.

Is there a way to shorten clutch travel? One way could be perhaps to eliminate the dead zone travel which happens after the clutch is disengaged yet the pedal continues to travel. Or, perhaps just shortening the travel that the pedal goes through somehow.

Anyone done this or have any tips on how it can be achieved?

Pinball
 

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*The Electrician*
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846 Posts
Get used to it, there is no solution. When I launch at autocross I take 2 bites out of the clutch and it seems to net the best results.
 

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*The Electrician*
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846 Posts
Get used to it, there is no solution. When I launch at autocross I take 2 bites out of the clutch and it seems to net the best results.
Can you give a bit more detail what your doing? 2 bite?
Partial clutch release to get it rolling(just barely) and then immediately back down and back up with a faster release. This works because timing lights are a few feet ahead of the start line.
 

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It's all about timing.

Thanks for explaining that. I will give it a try. I do something similar now when trying for a quick start, except I don't floor the clutch after the first half release.
CK
 

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*The Electrician*
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846 Posts
It's all about timing.

Thanks for explaining that. I will give it a try. I do something similar now when trying for a quick start, except I don't floor the clutch after the first half release.
CK
I wouldn't say I "floor" it off the 2nd release but pretty close as the Firestone Firehawks grip really well. Its something new I've only just started doing and I've got a practice event coming up this weekend so I may experiment with it a bit. Of course, launches get faster as the start line gets a little bit rubber'd in so its a constant adjustment. I still wonder tho if the clutch system is somehow lacking pressure, not just mine but all of our Gen 3 Mazda 3's. Im surprised Corksport hasn't come up with anything for it, a different master cylinder, or smaller lines perhaps to increase the pressure? Maybe the clutch and flywheel itself need an upgrade and that's the solution? The dual mass flywheel is apparently part of the problem if I recall correctly.
 

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There is a way to shorten clutch travel. The clutch master cylinder needs to have a larger bore to push more fluid per distance of travel. This is a project I have been meaning to get to as I have done it with other cars. The Mazda 3 does present a bit of a challenge as it will require some trick mounting utilizing a master cylinder from Wilwood on an angled mounting surface. It will also require an adapter or a different clutch pedal arm to attach to the cylinder's push rod. I posted a request for a used / broken clutch master cylinder a while ago, but not many people hold on to broken parts, let alone have to replace them on a newer car. I will also have to obtain a clutch pedal assembly so I can CAD up all the necessary adapters.

If anybody can obtain these items for me, I will gladly pay for shipping and cost for the used / broken parts. Just holding off on buying brand new pieces from the stealership. Once I have the necessary parts for reverse engineering, I just need to figure out what fittings will be needed to connect the new CMC to the rest of the clutch system.

On that note, does anybody know if our clutch master cylinder has the electrical connector / sensor built in to read clutch position? If this is the case, it might throw a bit of a wrench into the whole plan. Something that would have to be tricked and / or bypassed.
 
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