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2018 Mazda 3 GT
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I installed the CS short shift kit and shifter bushings over a year ago now and ever since I have had an issue engaging 1st gear when at a stop. It will remain closed..even when the clutch is fully engaged. It only happens once in a while, but I would like to fix the issue.

When the issue occurs..I keep the clutch fully in..engage 3rd..move back to 1st and it engages fine.

I was going to remove the short shift kit and reinstall it. Make sure the linkage is greased properly maybe?

Any other suggestions on things I should check or do?
CK
 

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2018 Mazda 3 GT
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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
I'm going to install the RMM later tonight and was hoping to try and tackle this issue too.

I still need to work myself up to install the adjustable camber and toe arms. I was thinking I should take it to the specialty alignment shop, so they can size the parts and tell me what exactly I need for camber in the front and camber / toe in the rear. Since I'm buying an alignment and all.
CK
 

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The toe arms are easy. A couple bolts, take it off, adjust the new one to the same length by lining up the holes, install it..
The camber arms are not so easy. You'll need to lower the rear subframe for that.....:surprise:
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
The toe arms are easy. A couple bolts, take it off, adjust the new one to the same length by lining up the holes, install it..
The camber arms are not so easy. You'll need to lower the rear subframe for that...../forums/images/Mazda3Revolution_2014/smilies/tango_face_surprise.png
Yeah..I will need to disconnect the dampers..exhaust..end links..remove the springs..it's gonna take a full 6 pack to finish all that..
CK
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Can the camber and toe arms be adjusted after they are installed?

If I install them and during the alignment find out I had the camber off and need to redo the installation...imma gonna be pissed..
CK
 

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I myself want adjustable camber for the rear, but since i read arathol posts in the past saying the subframe must be dropped i dont feel adventurous enough to do it, specially without an extra hand.
as per the short shift, i am not longer pursuing that mod cause the readings i have done are not very encouraging.
Sometimes i also have issues engaging 1rst, i have to get it out in 2nd, all my previous cars(corolla, mustang gt, scion tc/frs) had this same "issue" once in a while so i dont pay attention to that.
 

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Yeah..I will need to disconnect the dampers..exhaust..end links..remove the springs..it's gonna take a full 6 pack to finish all that..
CK
I didn't need to do all that. I put the jack under the front of the subframe, removed the two nuts from the front end, loosened the two in in the back a couple turns and lowered it a bit. It only has to move a couple inches..

Can the camber and toe arms be adjusted after they are installed?

If I install them and during the alignment find out I had the camber off and need to redo the installation...imma gonna be pissed..
CK
Of course they can, thats the whole point of installing them. :smile2:

as per the short shift, i am not longer pursuing that mod cause the readings i have done are not very encouraging.
I have the JBR short shift kit, no way I would go back to stock. Whats not encouraging? I have heard nothing but good about this.

 

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2018 Mazda 3 GT
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Yeah..not going back to stock shifter length ever..so much tighter and crisper feeling shifts now. Feels far more..natural..than the stock shifter did. It felt like you were working to get it right..now it's mostly quick flicks of the wrist to change gears. Just falls into gear now usually.

The issue I mentioned only happens once every few days or so..it may be caused by lazy shifting habits too...not pushing it all the way left before the upshift into 1st..catching the locking mechanism on the way maybe?
CK
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Oh..thanks for confirming about the camber arms. I will get those installed ASAP.

I was reading the instructions from JBR and CS and they both mention crazy amounts of things to remove to get the subframe lowered.

Rafael may have my first tune file soon too.

Very excited!
CK
 

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Oh..thanks for confirming about the camber arms. I will get those installed ASAP.

I was reading the instructions from JBR and CS and they both mention crazy amounts of things to remove to get the subframe lowered.

Rafael may have my first tune file soon too.

Very excited!
CK
If you are hesitant on dropping your subframe to get the camber arms in, hold off until you get the toe arms in and see if the factory camber bolts will give you enough adjustment in the rear. I decided not to get the upper camber arms and just went with a toe link and extended camber bolt setup. I never even had to install the camber bolts which would have required enlarging the subframe slot to gain additional camber adjustment which I didn't want to do unless absolutely necessary. The factory camber bolt had enough adjustment for me.
 

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I have the JBR short shift kit, no way I would go back to stock. Whats not encouraging? I have heard nothing but good about this.

i did not mean it in a way that they don't work or have issues, is just that OEM is great, don't feel adventurous enough to change something is already good. Suspension is already keeping very busy and stressed:mad 1:
 

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Hmmmm. Now that I think about it, I get the 1st gear lockout too randomly. I’ve always considered it a transmission issue, not really anything to do with the short shifter. I’m sure it would happen stock too, it’s just the short shifter brings it out more due to the shorter throw and less movement of the shifter cables.

No big deal to me. It’s like once every couple hundred 1st gear engagements or so. Can go months without it happening.

Lmk if you find the cause.
 

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Hmmmm. Now that I think about it, I get the 1st gear lockout too randomly. I’ve always considered it a transmission issue, not really anything to do with the short shifter. I’m sure it would happen stock too, it’s just the short shifter brings it out more due to the shorter throw and less movement of the shifter cables.

No big deal to me. It’s like once every couple hundred 1st gear engagements or so. Can go months without it happening.

Lmk if you find the cause.
Maybe, try changing the transmission oil. I have read that it helps a lot, i will do this soon and see.
 

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I doubt it's a short shifter issue, I'm stock and occasionally get first gear lockout, I'll usually just blip the throttle, release the clutch and move slightly in neutral, gets rid of it everytime.
I am however looking into eventually getting the JBR short shift kit and bushings.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Hmmmm. Now that I think about it, I get the 1st gear lockout too randomly. I’ve always considered it a transmission issue, not really anything to do with the short shifter. I’m sure it would happen stock too, it’s just the short shifter brings it out more due to the shorter throw and less movement of the shifter cables.

No big deal to me. It’s like once every couple hundred 1st gear engagements or so. Can go months without it happening.

Lmk if you find the cause.
I think it had to do with the way I was shifting. I was practicing different hand positions on the shift knob the last couple of days and I think I've got it down now.

The times that I experienced the 1st gear lockout was usually when I dropped my hand down to the side of the shift knob. This would cause me to upshift from the back right of the knob and catch the lockout mechanism. By keeping my hand on top of the shift knob and then up shifting into first by pushing it directly up with my palm on the center back of the shift knob, it hasn't locked me out once.
CK
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 · (Edited)
Okay, I figured it out.

Releasing the clutch while you are still moving or rolling to a stop...

I thought that if you were in neutral as you were completing your stop you could release the clutch and finish the stop with just the brake.

This would misalign the gears (synchros?) I guess and leave the locking mechanism partially or fully engaged for 1st gear. Making you have to engage another gear, to realign them, before you could shift into 1st easily.

"And..I learned something today." Peter Griffin

https://youtu.be/7obgSCc7zC0
CK
 

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2012 Mazda 3 GX MT5 non sky
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Hey Guys I know this is an older thread but i am in the process of deciding if i should use the CS or JBR Short Shifter.
I would love your feedback on this !!

I am leaning towards JBR and replacing all bushing ... but should you also relplace any other parts ?

As for the lock out ... I get that now going from neutral to 1st at a stop
Double clutch or or re clutch and re-engage and it works
Same with grinds from 2nd to 3rd ,,, so rev match or wait a bit till gear oil warms and then gone.
I think its what was mentioned ... shifting to fast before clutch fully engaged or giving synchros a sec to match up
Or more likely for me ..my clutch is starting (Throw out bearing / pilot ) to go and will have to replace the exedy stage 1
Looking to go to the ACT Stage 2 (organic materials)
 
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