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I don't want it installed under the seat anyway as I don't want the body to be drilled--especially here in the most corrosive state in the country...my plan all along was to have them install it in the back hatch along the left side...
 

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I don't want it installed under the seat anyway as I don't want the body to be drilled--especially here in the most corrosive state in the country...my plan all along was to have them install it in the back hatch along the left side...
Something like this will give you the missing bass


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Hi all!

I thought I should share my audio upgrade on My Mazda 3 2017.
My setup is this.

Amps:
Mosconi AS 100.4
Pioneer GM-5500T (for SUB)

Speakers:
Gladen Zero PRO 165.2 DC Active
JBL GTO 1214 (12")

DSP:
Mosconi 4to6
Mosconi RCD


The photos will not come in order of time i made this.

Dampening the doors and trunk compartment. This was a massive work that took 4 days all in all. I used Silent Coat:





As a bonus, dampening the trunk and doors really helped reduce the road noise as well.


Building the box for the sub (28,3 liters):






For the speakers in the door I did just like in this
:

I bought a pair of original speakers from the scrapyard as I want to put all original back in if i sell the car (This is not the speakers I now have):




I also made my own pods for the tweeters. I'm not happy with the look with how they are mounted in the car I will change this later:







Amps and DSP is mounted under the floor in the trunk. I made a new floor as I didn't have enough space in height. Have no picture on the floor.

I made a template for the mounting board:



Mounting board:




The DSP has a high to low converter and the connections is on outgoing speaker cables from the oem amplifier. I had to cut the cables as I could not find a ISO connection to buy:





I have the speaker wires on the same side but I have no pictures of it. I did not use the oem speaker wires. I mounted my own cables from the amp all the way to the speakers. I feel the oem cables is to thin to use.

I fitted the RDC for the DSP (I know, dirty car):

 

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I don't want it installed under the seat anyway as I don't want the body to be drilled--especially here in the most corrosive state in the country...my plan all along was to have them install it in the back hatch along the left side...
inguess you haven’t heard how they sound. There’s a reason why its called under seat subs, put them in the back they will sound worse overall (weaker). those kinds of subwoofers wont produce much sub bass to begin with (thats why they are designed to be put upfront). Better off with a real self powered sub at the back to be honest. Good luck and hope you are happy with the result
 

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Cheapo Tweeter Pods

Made some tweeter pods out of PVC end caps, threaded pipe, truck bed liner spray, and various mounting hardware. Still trying to decide exactly where on A pillar I want to drill/ mount.

 
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Installed an Infinity 8" Sub & Kenwood amp a few months ago, very nice for rock, it doesn't overpower the Infinity door and Kicker dash mounted speakers hooked the the non-Bose stereo
Gary
Nice enclosure, I had the 1260w sub which was nice too. People say not to have the amplifier attached to the sub box , constant vibration will destroy it.

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Nice enclosure, I had the 1260w sub which was nice too. People say not to have the amplifier attached to the sub box , constant vibration will destroy it.

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Never thought about vibration being detrimental to the amp... I was more interested in package efficiency
Appreciate the heads-up!
Gary
 

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I seriously doubt that the amp would break because of vibrations from the sub. There are active subs (with the amp built in the box) in the market. Never heard of one break of vibrations...
 

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just had installed yesterday a JL Audio Microsub+ 8 inch subwoofer (the plus includes a built in 250 W amp) with a bass knob installed by my left side of the dash. It has improved the bose system's lower end, and now I have to put the sound settings to 0 for the bass and treble. Really filled out the lower frequencies making the bose sound way better overall !
 

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A subwoofer box that is very well made should not be vibrating at all. Amp mounted to the box is fine unless it's a very crappy box.
Should & unless = variables. In any good install the amplifiers are installed separate from the box. A cheap installation doesn't care about anything.
Maybe a concrete box won't vibrate, a wood one it probably will. My 1" thick MDF does vibrate and is only 14" all sizes.


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Variables that defines your skills as a box builder.







Poor fabrication. Fortunately, it is also variable, you can improve it.
It's a box not a space shuttle and 1" MDF board is over the average thickness.
As I said, nobody has to follow anyone ideas, which by the way is not mine, you go ahead and make your super box that doesn't vibrate. I will just attach my amp somewhere else.
I'm not a box builder nor an expert in building sub boxes like you.


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A bit of doors treatment:


Custom angled cup mounted tweeters:


Amps, DSP etc layout:


OEM foam trimming:


False floor cover:




Test fit:


Trunk with everything installed:
 
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