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So, my '05 3i 200k/mi started shaking really bad (I mean really bad- so bad that I thought the car was going to literally come undone) during acceleration, right after I had the two front axles replaced. (Shady-tree mechanic work) When I brought it back, he replaced the 'carrier' bearing- I'll admit I'm not exactly sure what that is. Well, that helped, but the car still shakes really bad when accelerating. Its also kind of sluggish, we've owned the car for 170k/mi and it's not ever felt like this before. I'm not taking it back to that guy anymore, I just want to find the issue. It's definitely related to engine speed, and is harsher when accelerating hard. So far I've replaced the front control arms, outer tie rod ends, all 4 struts/shocks, front wheel hub/bearing assemblies, new tires (cheapo tirerack but they're quiet), and had the transmission flushed at the Mazda dealer. A few other parts I've replaced before this are the 3 engine mounts- they are OEM Mazda and have about 20k on them. The front end feels a bit tighter, but it still feels sluggy and shakes like crazy when accelerating.. any thoughts? Thanks


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Are those aftermarket axles? I'll bet they're no good. It doesn't take much out of spec to raise hell with the drive. Best solution I found was to have the original axles rebuilt and reinstalled.

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks- unfortunately my OEM axles are out of the picture since I do not have the originals. Would it make sense to purchase new aftermarket axles, or find a set of used OEM from a parts car? Are there any other performance axles you could recommend because I may try and replace these. The more I think about it they may just be bad axles or one of them, it's hard to tell because I had them both changed at the same time.

Also thanks it's not the alignment I've had it aligned twice and have new tires on the vehicle.


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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Here is an idea. Take it to a competent mechanic and find out whats really wrong. You can throw parts at it for weeks and you still won't have fixed it if you don't know what the problem is.


It seems like the mechanics in my town don't know what the hell they're doing. The first guy fucked it up in the past few shops I've taken it to cannot seem to find the problem. Any thoughts?



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It helps to look for shops that the "TECHNICIAN" is current ASE Certified. You will know, we like to hang our certifications so people can easily see them. :smile2:

It helps at times to help members that complete their information so we kinda know where you live to advise sometimes where a better service shop to go is.

Otherwise I am forced to go use my....

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Bring it to a Mazda dealer and have it checked. They can do the diagnostic work and have your shade tree mechanic do the labor if you can not afford to have the dealer do the work. With shade tree mechanics they just change parts until the come upon the correct one. Could be motor mounts or transmission mount or a bunch of other things. Have it diagnosed by a competent mechanic.
 

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dont know if anyone is still looking at this thread but i was having the same issue with my 2010 mazda 3. I would press the accelerator and the car would shake until i let off the gas pedal. first i took it to firestone to get the tires rotated and balanced, did not work. i then jacked up the car and looked at the cv axles and transmission but nothing was leaking or torn. i did replace the driver side tie rod end because the boot was torn and got it aligned, still the shaking was there. so then i replaced the driver side cv axle and drove it again, shaking is still there. then changed the passenger side cv axle and when i pulled it out the axle pulled apart at the boot, defintiely not normal. so when i replaced the cv axle and test drove it again this time the shaking was gone. so in the end it was the passenger cv axle. i wish i would have changed that part out first because i spent a whole day troubleshooting and im out 300 bucks, but i have new cv axles and tie rod end and the car is aligned once again. firestone wanted 350 to change the driver side axle, i would have paid and they would have changed the wrong one... Anyways theres my 2 cents and thought it would help.
 

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dont know if anyone is still looking at this thread but i was having the same issue with my 2010 mazda 3. I would press the accelerator and the car would shake until i let off the gas pedal. first i took it to firestone to get the tires rotated and balanced, did not work. i then jacked up the car and looked at the cv axles and transmission but nothing was leaking or torn. i did replace the driver side tie rod end because the boot was torn and got it aligned, still the shaking was there. so then i replaced the driver side cv axle and drove it again, shaking is still there. then changed the passenger side cv axle and when i pulled it out the axle pulled apart at the boot, defintiely not normal. so when i replaced the cv axle and test drove it again this time the shaking was gone. so in the end it was the passenger cv axle. i wish i would have changed that part out first because i spent a whole day troubleshooting and im out 300 bucks, but i have new cv axles and tie rod end and the car is aligned once again. firestone wanted 350 to change the driver side axle, i would have paid and they would have changed the wrong one... Anyways theres my 2 cents and thought it wouThe problem ld help.
Walter,

Hugely helpful. The issue you explained is the exact issue I was having. I was super confused about why everything would be smooth except when I'm accelerating. Going to start with the cv axles and hope that does the trick.
 

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Brian, I am having the same issues with my 09 Mazda 3. Did doing the cv axles work for you? I just purchased mine last week and the shaking while accelerating is something I very noticeable.
There are a few things it could be, mostly all suspension related and as other people mentioned, the CV joints and wheels being out of alignment could cause it.

Does the vibration always occur, or does it just take place at a specific speed range? If it only happens in a certain speed range (between 30-40mph, for example), your tires could be out of balance.

Do you have a floor jack and jack stands, or access to them? If so, try putting the front end on jack stands and get someone to press the accelerator a litle bit to get the RPM's up while you are looking and listening underneath for anything making a sound or vibration. Also, it may sound dumb at first, but they make stethoscopes for mechanics (like the doctors use) that have a metal rod at the end that you can place up against various components and listen for very faint noises/vibrations. They work good for finding bad bearings, idler pulleys and anything else where you can't locate the source of a noise. It may be worth using one of those on the transaxle and anything else in the vicinity, that's non-rotating, obviously :)
 

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dont know if anyone is still looking at this thread but i was having the same issue with my 2010 mazda 3. I would press the accelerator and the car would shake until i let off the gas pedal. first i took it to firestone to get the tires rotated and balanced, did not work. i then jacked up the car and looked at the cv axles and transmission but nothing was leaking or torn. i did replace the driver side tie rod end because the boot was torn and got it aligned, still the shaking was there. so then i replaced the driver side cv axle and drove it again, shaking is still there. then changed the passenger side cv axle and when i pulled it out the axle pulled apart at the boot, defintiely not normal. so when i replaced the cv axle and test drove it again this time the shaking was gone. so in the end it was the passenger cv axle. i wish i would have changed that part out first because i spent a whole day troubleshooting and im out 300 bucks, but i have new cv axles and tie rod end and the car is aligned once again. firestone wanted 350 to change the driver side axle, i would have paid and they would have changed the wrong one... Anyways theres my 2 cents and thought it would help.
My car is having the same problem and I also believe changing both the cv axels will help. The driver side cv axel looks to be the one with a problem.
 
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