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Discussion Starter #1
Hey everyone new member to the forum here...just got my 2011 manual mazda3 s hatch. And I want to install my JL sub.

I've done some research and it seems that people run the power wire through a grommet for the hood release cable...however im not sure the details of how exactly to do this.

First of all, I know i will need to remove the battery and case to access this spot from under the hood. I tried doing this but couldnt get the plastic tub out because I dont know how to remove the two big wiring harnesses on the left side of the battery. Can anyone tell me how to do this? I realize its probably not hard but i cant figure it out.

Also if anyone has a good pic of the exact spot the wire is fed through that would be great. I followed the hood release cable to the firewall from the cabin, but it didnt seem like it was big enough to fit the 4gauge wire. Did everyone run their wire starting from the engine bay, and then into the cabin?

thanks everyone
 

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Those plugs were a bitch - Disconnect the two ECU plugs by depressing the hasp below the white camlock latch of the plug housing. When the hasp is depressed, lift the white latch mechanism which will unlock and disconnect the ECU plugs

but I couldn't get 6 ga to fit through that hole.. Not saying you can't do it.. But I ended up just drilling a hole. I took out the glove box and you'll see a little circle or mark or something back there. I drilled where the circle/mark thing is.
 

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Those plugs were a bitch - Disconnect the two ECU plugs by depressing the hasp below the white camlock latch of the plug housing. When the hasp is depressed, lift the white latch mechanism which will unlock and disconnect the ECU plugs

but I couldn't get 6 ga to fit through that hole.. Not saying you can't do it.. But I ended up just drilling a hole. I took out the glove box and you'll see a little circle or mark or something back there. I drilled where the circle/mark thing is.
Thanks. Was looking to do this without any drilling if possible but I guess I may resort to that. I was planning to run my RCAs down that passenger side though. I hear you're not supposed to run both down the same side, but im not sure if it really makes a difference. Are yours both on the passenger side? does it still sound good?
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Check this out for running your power wires. This is how I did it with a 4 gage wire without drilling.
http://mazda3revolution.com/forums/...-wire-routing-manual-2012-mz3.html#post201585

Kept the power wire on drivers side and rca's on passenger side so they wouldn't interfere with each other. Hope it helps...
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Thanks this is a good DIY.. However I still cant seem to find the grommet? even with these pics. Did you have to cut off any of that insulation material? And did you have to take off that big plastic piece surrounding the steering column?

by the way, 215 represent! I'm in Newtown, you anywhere near there?
 

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Im in doylestown so not to far from you. You dont have to remove the piece around the steering column or cut any insulation, just pull the carpet back. Its hard to see the grommet unless u have the car jacked up and are under it. If u have a section of 6 ga or something just start pushing it through from the inside of the cabin along the steering column where I show the index card and wire in my one picture. Once u got a foot or so through then look under the car for it. You may have to reach under to where u can feel the steering column come through the firewall to grab the wire. But once its through it will be a lot easier to find that grommet . If you have any more questions let me know

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Thanks. Was looking to do this without any drilling if possible but I guess I may resort to that. I was planning to run my RCAs down that passenger side though. I hear you're not supposed to run both down the same side, but im not sure if it really makes a difference. Are yours both on the passenger side? does it still sound good?
I ran everything down the passenger side. It sounds fine to me. I just have a 720w pioneer amp I got off craigslist and a 12" rockford prime sub. In other words a pretty cheap set up. So if there was distortion I probably wouldn't notice it with a set up like that. I'm also new to upgraded audio. I've never really been in a car with a proper sub set up so I have nothing to compare to. I didn't want to drill either but it turned out to be no big deal. You can't see the hole at all. If there wasn't a bright red wire running through it you'd never see it.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks guys, I finally ran the wiring yesterday using the place under the steering column. Had to force it a bit but it worked. It helped lubing it up a bit with soap and water.

However where did you guys ground the amp? The rear seat hinge bolt is too big to fit through any ring connector I have found. This seems to be where most people are recommending but I cant get it to work with my connector. Any other good spots?

Again I'm trying to avoid drilling holes if possible. Thanks
 

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Oh.. if it doesn't fit through the seat bracket, I have no idea. I went to an industrial electrical place and got 6ga ring terminals to fit my 6ga wire. The bolt fit fine.
 

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Do you have a sedan? If so where the jack is located in the trunk theres a place behind it. You have to partially remove the carept on the trunk wall where the jack is located (plastic push pin at top and unscrew where the cargo net attaches to) behind it you will find a random piece of sheet metal with some holes in it. Its located like 6 inches behind the tail light. Sand the paint off it and get a random bolt to fit through your ring clamp and bolt it on there. Then run the wire from the amp through the jack plastic door... or at least that's what I did

N/m... just noticed you said you have a hatch in your first post. Dunno if you'd have the same spot I used.

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