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Discussion Starter #1
i've noticed that the power outlet in the central console is always on when something remains plugged in such as iphone ...

Here is my question: is there any way to rewire the outlet so that it becomes active only when the engine is powered on?

also, i want to install a laser detector (Beltronics) bought from Amazon... but it seems awkward to connect it from inside the windshield all the way to the central console. It would be ideal that the wire connecting the device and the outlet is invisible. any solution to this problem?

:detective:
 

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For the console plug the phone into a USB jack instead. They are ignition switched.

For the radar detector, you could hardwire to the fuse block and run the wire up behind the pillar trim and under the headliner to the mirror area and mount there. Or, if you have a home link mirror, you might be able to tap into its circuit. Or perhaps the wiring for the mirror is in place even if you don't have the mirror and you can just tap it. Others will have to advise on that.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Beast, thanks for tips!

In terms of the fuse block, where can I find the diagram? perhaps i need to know which slot on the fuse block is available for hardwiring the laser/radar detector? I watched a Youtube video (not Mazda though), which shows that the radio had to be unplugged in order to hardwire the detector.

It would be very nice if the wiring for the home link mirror is already there for hardwiring the detector. Anyone would like to give me more clues?
 

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i've noticed that the power outlet in the central console is always on when something remains plugged in such as iphone ...

Here is my question: is there any way to rewire the outlet so that it becomes active only when the engine is powered on?

also, i want to install a laser detector (Beltronics) bought from Amazon... but it seems awkward to connect it from inside the windshield all the way to the central console. It would be ideal that the wire connecting the device and the outlet is invisible. any solution to this problem?

:detective:
I installed my radar detector by getting a fuse tap from the internal fuse box with a separate fuse and running the wire up the A-pillar, underneath the roof panel and down the mirror cover. I mounted the radar detector with a MirrorMount bracket right below my Homelink mirror that I installed. If you are installing a Homelink mirror at the same time, and have an sGT, you can get your power from the mirror wires. You can get instructions for removing the A-pillar from Med Center Mazda's accessory Homelink mirror (that won't work on an sGT) but it is good for removing the A-pillar. If you remove the A-pillar, I suggest you get Mazda part D65168162A which is the clip you will destroy when you remove the trim. I got that part on eBay. I also used that tap (which turns live when the ignition is turned on) to attach a power plug recepticle underneath the driver's side of the dash so I had a plug to power my phone. I always prefer to hardwire the radar detector since that never leaves the car. However, it just slides off of the MirrorMount when I need to remove it. The installation is clean and you can't see any wires.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Rvoll, that sounds very cool! great work :thumbup 1:

I am very eager to learn more abt this step:"installed my radar detector by getting a fuse tap from the internal fuse box with a separate fuse". My questions are:

1. where is the internal fuse box (is it on the leftside)? (I know there is another fusebox under the hood).

2. I am not sure I understand which fuse tap you got and what a separate fuse is. Is the fuse tap already on the existing internal fuse box? Or you purchased a separate fuse?

are there 15 slots on the internal fuse panel? which slot did you use to connect the radar detector?

3. my trim is HB Auto transmission i Grand Touring. Does this trim have mirror wires that can be used for hardwiring the radar detector?




I installed my radar detector by getting a fuse tap from the internal fuse box with a separate fuse and running the wire up the A-pillar, underneath the roof panel and down the mirror cover. I mounted the radar detector with a MirrorMount bracket right below my Homelink mirror that I installed. If you are installing a Homelink mirror at the same time, and have an sGT, you can get your power from the mirror wires. You can get instructions for removing the A-pillar from Med Center Mazda's accessory Homelink mirror (that won't work on an sGT) but it is good for removing the A-pillar. If you remove the A-pillar, I suggest you get Mazda part D65168162A which is the clip you will destroy when you remove the trim. I got that part on eBay. I also used that tap (which turns live when the ignition is turned on) to attach a power plug recepticle underneath the driver's side of the dash so I had a plug to power my phone. I always prefer to hardwire the radar detector since that never leaves the car. However, it just slides off of the MirrorMount when I need to remove it. The installation is clean and you can't see any wires.
 

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Rvoll, that sounds very cool! great work :thumbup 1:

I am very eager to learn more abt this step:"installed my radar detector by getting a fuse tap from the internal fuse box with a separate fuse". My questions are:

1. where is the internal fuse box (is it on the leftside)? (I know there is another fusebox under the hood).

2. I am not sure I understand which fuse tap you got and what a separate fuse is. Is the fuse tap already on the existing internal fuse box? Or you purchased a separate fuse?

are there 15 slots on the internal fuse panel? which slot did you use to connect the radar detector?

3. my trim is HB Auto transmission i Grand Touring. Does this trim have mirror wires that can be used for hardwiring the radar detector?
The fuse box is in the driver's side lower kick panel and there is a plastic cover that just pulls off. I tapped the bottom fuse which only provides power when the ignition is on. I used this tap:

One Qty 1 ATM Fuse Tap Add A Circuit for Mini Blade Style Fuses | eBay

You have low profile fuses in this car, but it is easier to use regular mini ATM fuses and tap. You'll be adding a fuse for the new circuit and will need another fuse to replace the low profile one currently in the slot of the same amps. That way you will not overload the current circuit. Notice that I drilled a small shallow hole into the left side for the ground. I only went through the first layer of sheet metal so I used a couple of washers for the length of the screw. Your ground is the car's body.

Since your model didn't come with the auto-dimming mirror as standard, you don't have wiring in the upper console and will have to use this method. While I did have power up there, I also wanted to install a power receptacle off of the ignition to plug in my phone so I simply used this same tap and put in a 10 amp fuse.

Here are some pics:
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Man, you totally rock! :thumbup 1: thanks for posting the pics- they look great. I will do this too. It may take a bit time, but I will keep yall posted.

:thumbup 1::thumbup 1::thumbup 1:

The fuse box is in the driver's side lower kick panel and there is a plastic cover that just pulls off. I tapped the bottom fuse which only provides power when the ignition is on. I used this tap:

One Qty 1 ATM Fuse Tap Add A Circuit for Mini Blade Style Fuses | eBay

You have low profile fuses in this car, but it is easier to use regular mini ATM fuses and tap. You'll be adding a fuse for the new circuit and will need another fuse to replace the low profile one currently in the slot of the same amps. That way you will not overload the current circuit. Notice that I drilled a small shallow hole into the left side for the ground. I only went through the first layer of sheet metal so I used a couple of washers for the length of the screw. Your ground is the car's body.

Since your model didn't come with the auto-dimming mirror as standard, you don't have wiring in the upper console and will have to use this method. While I did have power up there, I also wanted to install a power receptacle off of the ignition to plug in my phone so I simply used this same tap and put in a 10 amp fuse.

Here are some pics:
 

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Just remember that there's an airbag in the A pillar. Run the wires on the Front (windshield) side of the A pillar, not the door side.
 

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Just remember that there's an airbag in the A pillar. Run the wires on the Front (windshield) side of the A pillar, not the door side.
Great point!!! You should actually tie the wires to the current wires that are there with plastic ties...
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Hi Rvoll,

Finally, my order has arrived. In the photo, there is my mini ATM fuse that you recommended, and there is a wire connecting to my radar detector.

However, I am not sure how to connect these two? Should I order another fuse? or just use the blue plastic to tap the radar detector wire to the red colored wire of theATM fuse?




The fuse box is in the driver's side lower kick panel and there is a plastic cover that just pulls off. I tapped the bottom fuse which only provides power when the ignition is on. I used this tap:

One Qty 1 ATM Fuse Tap Add A Circuit for Mini Blade Style Fuses | eBay

You have low profile fuses in this car, but it is easier to use regular mini ATM fuses and tap. You'll be adding a fuse for the new circuit and will need another fuse to replace the low profile one currently in the slot of the same amps. That way you will not overload the current circuit. Notice that I drilled a small shallow hole into the left side for the ground. I only went through the first layer of sheet metal so I used a couple of washers for the length of the screw. Your ground is the car's body.

Since your model didn't come with the auto-dimming mirror as standard, you don't have wiring in the upper console and will have to use this method. While I did have power up there, I also wanted to install a power receptacle off of the ignition to plug in my phone so I simply used this same tap and put in a 10 amp fuse.

Here are some pics:
 

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Hi Rvoll,

Finally, my order has arrived. In the photo, there is my mini ATM fuse that you recommended, and there is a wire connecting to my radar detector.

However, I am not sure how to connect these two? Should I order another fuse? or just use the blue plastic to tap the radar detector wire to the red colored wire of theATM fuse?
The tap adds an entire circuit so you don't overload the existing circuit. Given that the car uses low profile ATM fuses and these are mini-fuses, you'll need to get two mini-fuses and take out the low profile fuse currently in the slot. One of the fuses will protect the current circuit and the other one will protect anything you connect to the red wire. Simply use a crimped butt connector to join the wires.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Thanks! So I will need to order another exactly same AMT mini fuse... Once i have to fuses, i will plug both of them into the slot - after i unplug the low profile fuse from the slot. I hope my understanding is right this time :tongue: So, let me order another one...

I happen to have another question. I also owns a video recorder.The original wire with the recorder only connects to the cigarette lighter. I want to hardwire it to the fuse panel. what type of wire do you think I need to use to replace the original wire? The original wire is 12v. , 0.2A. In addition, do I need to order another two ATM mini fuses?

:cheesy:


The tap adds an entire circuit so you don't overload the existing circuit. Given that the car uses low profile ATM fuses and these are mini-fuses, you'll need to get two mini-fuses and take out the low profile fuse currently in the slot. One of the fuses will protect the current circuit and the other one will protect anything you connect to the red wire. Simply use a crimped butt connector to join the wires.
 

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Thanks! So I will need to order another exactly same AMT mini fuse... Once i have to fuses, i will plug both of them into the slot - after i unplug the low profile fuse from the slot. I hope my understanding is right this time :tongue: So, let me order another one...

I happen to have another question. I also owns a video recorder.The original wire with the recorder only connects to the cigarette lighter. I want to hardwire it to the fuse panel. what type of wire do you think I need to use to replace the original wire? The original wire is 12v. , 0.2A. In addition, do I need to order another two ATM mini fuses?

:cheesy:
If the video recorder only pulls 0.2A, then also attach it to the red wire as that is a very small drain. You can just cut off the lighter plug and you should be able to separate the wires. Make sure you have a continuity checker so you can make sure the positive is connected to the positive and the negative is attached to ground -- don't reverse the wires. The plug for your detector can either have a positive or negative center, so make sure you look at the symbol on your detector to know which is positive and use the continuity checker to confirm you have the right wire. The lighter plug is positive in the center and again use that continuity checker.

Wiring is simple if you understand the basics and have the right tools. I would also disconnect the negative ground on the battery unless you really have some experience here and know the tricks. You don't want to ruin your new car.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Thanks, Rvoll!

This is really helpful. I am a newbie, and glad to be able to learn from you and others in this forum. Totally awesome!!:thumbup 1:


If the video recorder only pulls 0.2A, then also attach it to the red wire as that is a very small drain. You can just cut off the lighter plug and you should be able to separate the wires. Make sure you have a continuity checker so you can make sure the positive is connected to the positive and the negative is attached to ground -- don't reverse the wires. The plug for your detector can either have a positive or negative center, so make sure you look at the symbol on your detector to know which is positive and use the continuity checker to confirm you have the right wire. The lighter plug is positive in the center and again use that continuity checker.

Wiring is simple if you understand the basics and have the right tools. I would also disconnect the negative ground on the battery unless you really have some experience here and know the tricks. You don't want to ruin your new car.
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
Hi Rvoll, just found a fuse panel diagram online.

Could you tell me from which of the slots on the diagram that you unplugged the low profile fuse and plugged in two additional mini fuses? it will be easier if you could give me the slot number.

Also, from your photos I only see one red colored wire of the two mini fuses inserted into the slot. Where is the other red wire?

Thanks



If the video recorder only pulls 0.2A, then also attach it to the red wire as that is a very small drain. You can just cut off the lighter plug and you should be able to separate the wires. Make sure you have a continuity checker so you can make sure the positive is connected to the positive and the negative is attached to ground -- don't reverse the wires. The plug for your detector can either have a positive or negative center, so make sure you look at the symbol on your detector to know which is positive and use the continuity checker to confirm you have the right wire. The lighter plug is positive in the center and again use that continuity checker.

Wiring is simple if you understand the basics and have the right tools. I would also disconnect the negative ground on the battery unless you really have some experience here and know the tricks. You don't want to ruin your new car.
 

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Hi Rvoll, just found a fuse panel diagram online.

Could you tell me from which of the slots on the diagram that you unplugged the low profile fuse and plugged in two additional mini fuses? it will be easier if you could give me the slot number.

Also, from your photos I only see one red colored wire of the two mini fuses inserted into the slot. Where is the other red wire?

Thanks
Slot 11 -- the Accessory slot...
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Hi Rvoll,

I just crimped the wires (one is radar detector, the other video recorder) to the mini fuse. Do you think it is O.K.? still awaiting another mini fuse. Once it arrives, I will plug them into the fuse box.



Thanks!



If the video recorder only pulls 0.2A, then also attach it to the red wire as that is a very small drain. You can just cut off the lighter plug and you should be able to separate the wires. Make sure you have a continuity checker so you can make sure the positive is connected to the positive and the negative is attached to ground -- don't reverse the wires. The plug for your detector can either have a positive or negative center, so make sure you look at the symbol on your detector to know which is positive and use the continuity checker to confirm you have the right wire. The lighter plug is positive in the center and again use that continuity checker.

Wiring is simple if you understand the basics and have the right tools. I would also disconnect the negative ground on the battery unless you really have some experience here and know the tricks. You don't want to ruin your new car.
 

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Hi Rvoll,

I just crimped the wires (one is radar detector, the other video recorder) to the mini fuse. Do you think it is O.K.? still awaiting another mini fuse. Once it arrives, I will plug them into the fuse box.



Thanks!
Using a lot of electro-taps on a wire is not the best way to make a connection, but it does work. Looking at your picture, I do not understand what the end of the red wire is connected to. If you're unsure of what you are doing, go to a professional -- like someone in a car stereo shop -- to check your work. I've been doing electrical as a hobby for over 50 years, and many times I forget how difficult it is for newbies. I can't "approve" your final installation and you don't want to hurt anything on your car. My advice? Spend a few bucks on taking it to a professional to check your work. The $25 or so for 5 minutes of their time is well worth it for your piece of mind. They might want to charge you more for making it more "professional". If you trust them, let them do it. Make sure you tape up all connections.

By the way, the reason I don't like to use a lot of electro-taps is that it can weaken a wire. As your car moves, the metal in the wire moves back and forth and as you know, eventually it can break. When you tape it up, you stiffen the wire so it doesn't bend. That doesn't happen when you use something like a butt connector. Don't get me wrong, I do use electrotaps when I have an existing wire to pull from, but I use them sparingly. I never use them on a new install like you're doing.
 
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