[DBarnes]

So just a few things I'd like to know. I'm new here and I want to lower my car more. I have the Same coilovers as you but need the spring rate to change the springs to lower stiffer ones. Also wanna raise the engine and get both transmission mounts and engine mounts replaced by corksport. Opinions?

Rogue Agent…..
Are you wanting stiffer springs because you want it REALLY Low?? Going for Static ride?
To avoid bottoming out. Hence the mounts to try to move engine trans up, I would guess?

 

[DBarnes]

I would like stiffer springs. Keep from bouncing and keep the frame banging minimal. But sprinkled in here and there. I've had a car like this and miss it. But I want to do it more correctly.

Stiffer springs can make it more bouncy if the shocks/dampers can’t control them.
You only want stiffer springs to go Really low, and avoid bottoming out. Like 3” drop.
You can also have decent spring rates, then add stiffer, correct height bump stops to act as progressive spring rates before bottoming out. So soft springs for most driving, but big bumps will get into the bump stops causing it to really stiffen up, before car bottoms out.
There are several ways to dial in what is wanted.
Detail exactly what you want from your car, including how low you want to go

 

[CerealKiller]

You don't raise the engine. You add a skid plate sometimes..

The RMM lessens engine movement when shifting gears.. more direct engine engagement to help put more power to the wheels and assist when slowing down with engine braking.
CK

 

[Rogue Agent Sniff]

Don't matter how stiff the springs are when the shock is at full compression, which it will be if the car is any lower......And whatever dampers are in there will last about 5 minutes.....

Basically...it isn't worth it huh?

 

[Rogue Agent Sniff]

Stiffer springs can make it more bouncy if the shocks/dampers can’t control them.
You only want stiffer springs to go Really low, and avoid bottoming out. Like 3” drop.
You can also have decent spring rates, then add stiffer, correct height bump stops to act as progressive spring rates before bottoming out. So soft springs for most driving, but big bumps will get into the bump stops causing it to really stiffen up, before car bottoms out.
There are several ways to dial in what is wanted.
Detail exactly what you want from your car, including how low you want to go

So I'd like to go 4 inches lower with the engine being raised. There is another mazda I saw that is running that setup but without caution for the oil pan. Bleeding alot, bumpers ruined, etc. I'm on these rev 9 coilovers with nothing modified. Just removed the adjustment cuffs for the back. (I've heard that's bad and I came to these forums to better learn my car than just "send it" like my car guy that convinced me to take off the cuffs) a note to add is I might also just need bigger wheels. It's a thought. I want a fun, daily driver that hits frame on occasion and was a beautiful fitment, tire to inner fender.

 

[Rogue Agent Sniff]

Ye

Rogue Agent…..
Are you wanting stiffer springs because you want it REALLY Low?? Going for Static ride?
To avoid bottoming out. Hence the mounts to try to move engine trans up, I would guess?

Yes

 

[DBarnes]

Basically...it isn't worth it huh?

You need to lay out exactly what you want from your suspension.
How low do you really want to go? How important is going that low, assuming you’re wanting a 3” drop.
How important is handling, how important is ride comfort.

 

[arathol]

Basically...it isn't worth it huh?

So I'd like to go 4 inches lower with the engine being raised. There is another mazda I saw that is running that setup but without caution for the oil pan. Bleeding alot, bumpers ruined, etc. I'm on these rev 9 coilovers with nothing modified. Just removed the adjustment cuffs for the back. (I've heard that's bad and I came to these forums to better learn my car than just "send it" like my car guy that convinced me to take off the cuffs) a note to add is I might also just need bigger wheels. It's a thought. I want a fun, daily driver that hits frame on occasion and was a beautiful fitment, tire to inner fender.

No way you are going 4 additional inches with the oem suspension design. The suspension geometry will be way out of whack, and it will drive like crap. Not all useable for a daily driver. The steering tie rods will be at extreme angles that will cause the steering to do odd things (lots of bump steer etc). The control arms will be at upward angles instead of downward, which is something that will cause the suspension not to work. The ends will be out of alignment, and cause the toe/camber to change under load. You can't correct the suspension enough to prevent this from happening. The center of gravity will be too close to the roll center, so you will lose a lot of grip and the car will tend to break traction very easily.
Those coil overs (and pretty much all of them) have a damper insert inside the assembly. There is only so far that it can be compressed before it looses all travel and will be operating as a solid bar, and there won't be any room really for functional bumpstops. That will in short order beat the damper to death.
If you want a somewhat reasonable daily driver that is that low, your best option is an air bag set up that can drop the car all the way when you want it but still allow you to maintain correct suspension geometry for daily driving.

 

[Rogue Agent Sniff]

No way you are going 4 additional inches with the oem suspension design. The suspension geometry will be way out of whack, and it will drive like crap. Not all useable for a daily driver. The steering tie rods will be at extreme angles that will cause the steering to do odd things (lots of bump steer etc). The control arms will be at upward angles instead of downward, which is something that will cause the suspension not to work. The ends will be out of alignment, and cause the toe/camber to change under load. You can't correct the suspension enough to prevent this from happening. The center of gravity will be too close to the roll center, so you will lose a lot of grip and the car will tend to break traction very easily.
Those coil overs (and pretty much all of them) have a damper insert inside the assembly. There is only so far that it can be compressed before it looses all travel and will be operating as a solid bar, and there won't be any room really for functional bumpstops. That will in short order beat the damper to death.
If you want a somewhat reasonable daily driver that is that low, your best option is an air bag set up that can drop the car all the way when you want it but still allow you to maintain correct suspension geometry for daily driving.

Ok so I'm happy I got a thorough answer, I'd like to show a pic of where I got this idea from. I love the silhouette of how it looks....minus the stickers and extras lol I'm not trying to argue back, if this comes off that way. Honestly just laying it out and wanting to hear more knowledge from you on it but more visually.

 

[arathol]

LOL thats got to be bagged. The side sills are pretty much right on the ground. Otherwise its basically useless as a daily driver being that low. Keep in mind that there also seems to be some sort of extended rocker panels that create an illusion of being lowered, and the over-size rims with super-low profile stretched tires further the illusion.

 

[MazdaGT_E]

Don't matter how stiff the springs are when the shock is at full compression, which it will be if the car is any lower......And whatever dampers are in there will last about 5 minutes.....

So you're saying that keeping the dampening at high stiffness is bad for the strut?

 

[MazdaGT_E]

LOL thats got to be bagged. The side sills are pretty much right on the ground. Otherwise its basically useless as a daily driver being that low.

Nope, Thats Static Tyler, I follow his IG, No bags, he has videos driving on his IG, IDK how the hell he daily's that thing, FAR to low for my tastes but looks sick.

 

[CerealKiller]

That's a big nope for me..
CK

 

[DBarnes]

So you're saying that keeping the dampening at high stiffness is bad for the strut?

No, but lowering the car so much that there’s no, or not much damper travel before bottoming the damper shaft inside the shock body is bad.
But that’s why guys like Tyler run 30kg to 50kg spring rates, to make sure there is pretty much no travel allowed, because those spring rates won’t compress

 

[MazdaGT_E]

No, but lowering the car so much that there’s no, or not much damper travel before bottoming the damper shaft inside the shock body is bad.
But that’s why guys like Tyler run 30kg to 50kg spring rates, to make sure there is pretty much no travel allowed, because those spring rates won’t compress

Ok, that's what I assumed. Thanks

 

[Rogue Agent Sniff]

No, but lowering the car so much that there’s no, or not much damper travel before bottoming the damper shaft inside the shock body is bad.
But that’s why guys like Tyler run 30kg to 50kg spring rates, to make sure there is pretty much no travel allowed, because those spring rates won’t compress

....so you're saying there's a chance? )

 

[kingofl337]

It doesn't mean the parts are crap just because something you installed is now loose, your definition of tight might not be enough. If the treads were internally stripped because the metal was cheap that would be different and would indicate poor quality. It's not a bad idea to use a thread locker on any fastener you install that sees a lot of vibration. If you pull apart something and you see a dark or yellow area that is usually a thread locker.

 

[MazdaGT_E]

It doesn't mean the parts are crap just because something you installed is now loose, your definition of tight might not be enough. If the treads were internally stripped because the metal was cheap that would be different and would indicate poor quality. It's not a bad idea to use a thread locker on any fastener you install that sees a lot of vibration. If you pull apart something and you see a dark or yellow area that is usually a thread locker.
View attachment 287444

not sure what post comment you're replying to, buy Yea, im aware of all of this, the godspeed parts are just crap, even red 263 thread locker from the garage they came loose. the end links are crap metal and undersized loose threads, if i were to torque them to 29.8-40.3 ft/lbs (factory Spec) im sure they would strip, very very Cheap, same with theGodspeed Toe arms and camber arms.

but thanks for stopping by.

 

[arathol]

It doesn't mean the parts are crap just because something you installed is now loose, your definition of tight might not be enough. If the treads were internally stripped because the metal was cheap that would be different and would indicate poor quality. It's not a bad idea to use a thread locker on any fastener you install that sees a lot of vibration. If you pull apart something and you see a dark or yellow area that is usually a thread locker.
View attachment 287444

Godspeed = cheap junk .....end of story.....

 

[MazdaGT_E]

Godspeed = cheap junk .....end of story.....

Facts… to be fair I think you warned me too😅😅😬🥲

love how his first post is a know it all post -_-