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Well, finally, the long awaited story came to its logical conclusion and I finished my plans.
It's been a long time since I started thinking about it, but that's how I am - I'm not in a hurry in such things.

The last delay was a package from Poland with some spare parts, which they "lost". I waited 3 months for it to be delivered to me. I finally thought that I would not see them and ordered the necessary spare parts again, but in the end they delivered it to me. So soon I will have a second set of spare parts for sale :)

I'll start in order.
It all started with the gift of an FSC camera (Camera from CX-3: DB2R-67-XCX-B). Thanks @Tristan-cx5
Next, I ordered some parts from a store in the US:
Part Number — Part Name — Price
KD53-67-290A — Cord Short — $11.26

GHP9-67-Z31D — Trim Cover — $11.80
GHP9-67-Z32C — Trim Cover — $10.52

Then I ordered roof wiring harness, which was a separate long story:
I was initially looking for BJM7-67-130A — INTERIOR MIRROR-DAY & NIGHT: AUTO>W/RAIN SENSOR>W/SMART CITY BRAKE SUPPORT>W/HIGH BEAM CONTROL, W/LANE DEPARTURE WARNING; W/O Sunroof
It was allegedly available in many stores in the United States, but all of them ultimately refused to ship this position, telling me that it actually is not available, and Mazda does not have it in their warehouses either. I also tried to order from Japan, but got a refusal. Dealer had this wiring 3 times more expensive (~$150) than what I was looking for in the USA, so I immediately refused the option of buying from them.

After a couple of months of searching (while I was ordering and waiting for delivery, as a result of which I received refusals), I came across a wiring for a Mazda 6, which at first glance was suitable, but it was not judging by catalog it was not installed on Mazda 3. Found it on eBay. And then I thought that I was looking only for such wiring as I ideally needed, but did not think that there was still an option with a Sunroof:
BLG1-67-130A (BLG1-67-130B) - INTERIOR MIRROR-DAY & NIGHT: AUTO> W / RAIN SENSOR> W / SMART CITY BRAKE SUPPORT> W / HIGH BEAM CONTROL, W / LANE DEPARTURE WARNING; W Sunroof.
According to the catalog, it was strange that the version with the letter B is not a complete replacement for the version with A, but an option for certain serial numbers (VIN codes). But after some study of the catalogs, I realized that the difference there can only be due to the Sunroof, which I do not have.
I found an option with the letter B in one store, where I usually buy parts in the USA, they said that it was in the warehouse of another store, and the delivery time was a couple of days longer. I placed an order and did not believe that they sent it to me until I received it in my hands already in Ukraine :)

As a result, the wiring cost $58 with delivery to Ukraine.

Expecting the replacement of the windshield and the delivery of the rest of the spare parts - I was in no hurry with the installation, but one day I got a good opportunity and I decided to try to change it.
Overall, only hands and a screwdriver are needed for replacement, but plastic tools could be useful in order to gently pull out the latches of the old wiring, if needed.

To replace the wiring, the following parts must be removed to bend the ceiling trim:
1. Overhead console

Unscrews 2 screws in the glasses compartment. Disconnects 2 connectors

1 connector - for a microphone. 2 connector - for lighting from other wiring.


2. Sun visors

Unscrew 1 screw at the attachment point. The second mount is pulled out with an ordinary screwdriver
3. Left front pillar (A Pillar)


4. Left handles in the ceiling


5. Left center pillar (B Pillar) - I did not remove it completely, but just snapped it off and moved it down

A couple of pictures of the old wiring before I removed it:


During disassembly:


New wiring (Can't add more than 20 images, so next ones are links to photos):
1 - Apparently the sunroof engine.
2 - Joint Box (wire connector).
3 - Lidar.
4 - Mirror with auto-dimming.
5 - FSC.
6 - Rain / light sensor.
7 - Console (microphone).
8 - Console (Sunroof button).
5 and 6 are connected via Short Cord - KD53-67-290A

Then I went on to remove the old wiring.
In the left pillar there are 3 fasteners - the wire is tied with electrical tape to the fasteners. So I just cut it off and that's it.
Next comes one with a small frog-like fastener. Almost broke it.
Next comes one mount place, which you can reach with your hand and clamp the legs on the back side to pull out the latch.
Then a couple of mounts for the console - there, too, you can reach it with your hand from the back and pull them out quite easily.
And the last three fasteners are the part of the wire that goes to the rain sensor. They were the hardest thing to get out without damaging them, which actually didn't work out for me. I did not break them, but damaged.
And to disconnect the wire from the rain sensor, you need to remove the cover of the part that goes to the ceiling. It is moved down, although it is not immediately very clear how to.
Old wiring. Almost no damage
Place under the console with removed wiring.
Well, the new wiring is attached quite simply and easily. There is nothing even to describe. Unless it is worth mentioning that the places where the wire was glued with electrical tape are wrapped in foam rubber in the new wiring and hold pretty well in those fasteners that were there before.
Well, for the shorts cord - one fastening should be on the glass, which I don't have yet.
To make it clearer, I also recorded a short video, if anyone is interested (russian though, only):

------------------

Well, now I have received a parcel with used spare parts from Poland, namely:
1. Rearview mirror with auto-dimming;
2. Lidar;
3. Clock Spring in the steering wheel;
4. Cluster Switch.

My windshield was chipped since last year. The chip was rather small, with a small crack of 5 mm. But given that my task required a glass replacement, I went to the insurance company and replaced the glass for free to the one which I needed. Fortunately, the cost of glass for FSC / Lidar sensors is less than the cost of glass only for the rain / light sensor, so the insurance company had no issues with it. The service station also ordered the glass without any problems, I just told them that it's under my responsibility if it does not fit my car.

When I changed the wiring and installed the glass, I immediately asked to install the FSC camera.

Earlier, I activated the HBC, LDWS functions in the IC module of the car:
720-04-19 B0 b7b6b5b4 = 0010 - LDWS + HBC [FSC Gen 1].
Let me remind you that the Excel file for editing car modules can be found here.
I then had errors of both systems on the IC, and there was a DTC regarding the lack of camera calibration.
At first I thought that calibration could be done through FORScan, but did not find the required option in the configuration section. Then I thought that this can only be done through the dealership M-MDS.
This is where I stopped. I signed up to go to dealer to find the cause of the problem with the air conditioner, and at the same time do the calibration.

Then, when I received a package from Poland, I installed all these parts.

There are two types of auto-dimming mirrors, with different catalog numbers. One mirror with SCBS support and one without. As it turned out, the only difference is in the part that is attached to the glass. It is of different sizes for different trim covers, as I understand it.
Its installation is quite easy. You need an asterisk screwdriver to unscrew the screw, and then it's a matter of one minute to remove the old one, connect the new one and install it and tighten.

The lidar also fits quite simply into the slot on the glass.
As well as trim covers that hide this whole thing. Everything is elementary there too.

Next, I went on to change the block of buttons to the left of the steering wheel. To do this, remove the seal to the left of the steering wheel in the doorway. Next, remove the front scuff plate, and then remove the plastic panel that covers the fuse box by unscrewing one plastic nut using hand. Then one bolt must be unscrewed to unhook the panel that covers the button block. It is not necessary to completely remove it, just enough to reach the latches of the block of buttons in order to pull it out.
Further, replace one block with another.

And the last is the replacement of the clock spring.

For this you need to do:
1. Remove the steering wheel airbag.
2. Disconnect the steering wheel wiring from the plug.
3. Unscrew the central bolt and remove the steering wheel itself.
4. Unscrew the two bolts in the lower plastic panel under the steering wheel and remove it.

5. Loosen the latches of the clock spring and pull it out and disconnect the two wiring plugs.
6. Unplug the third cable plug under the steering wheel.

7. Install a new clock spring and connect all 3 plugs.
8. Correctly turn the clock spring to the position in which the old spring was when you removed the steering wheel.

9. Install the steering wheel and reassemble everything in the reverse order.

Next, I went on to the activation of the SCBS system. It is worth mentioning here that in the ideal case, you also need to replace the ABS unit (BHY3-43-7A0D - W / SMART CITY BRAKE SUPPORT), but I did not find the one I needed on scrap yards, and buying a new one is too expensive, so I decided to try without replacing ABS... Moreover, several people here wrote that the function works without replacing the ABS.
I changed one bit in the IC module:
720-04-24 B2 b6b5b4 = 010 SCBS ON (FSC Gen 1), after which did ABS module initialization/relearn from the CCC (central configuration), and just in case, reset the ABS unit and ICA unit, and also cleared the DTC errors.
It seems that all the errors are gone, and the SCBS icon went out too.

I took a large box and went to check the system's performance. But when I started driving - the SCBS icon lit up and an error appeared in the multimedia.
Then I changed another bit in the RBCM block:
7B7-01-01 B3 b2b1b0 = 110 - SCBS Brake.
Again, just in case, I did ABS module initialization/relearn from the CCC, reset the ABS unit and the ICA unit.
The error disappeared and the icon went out.

I put up the box, drove to it and the system worked. Video below:

When I was engaged in activating the SCBS, and checking the operation of the clock spring - I saw that FORScan actually has the ability to calibrate the camera.

I thought that I myself was able to carry out this procedure, and most likely I would do it more accurately than at the service station - I undertook to make a stand. Alas, I myself did not have the nerve to put everything right, so I went to my father for help.
We spent about 1.5 hours installing the stand according to the instructions and in 2 minutes we completed the calibration procedure itself.

An excerpt from the service manual and the target for printing are here.
LDWS, HBC errors disappeared from the IC, as well as the DTC error after clearing it.

The LDWS is turned on by a button to the left of the steering wheel, and a green icon on the dashboard immediately lights up.

This is not entirely correct and it should be lit orange when the system is inactive. I suppose it's because of the FSC, which is from CX-3, and not Mazda 3.
I checked the system performance in the city. Works at speeds of 70 km/h and above. Video below:

It is also worth mentioning here that, ideally, this system also needs another TAU (two options depending on the presence of BOSE):
BJN1-66-DRX - Auto Visual Tuner - W / 9-Speaker, W / HBC, W / LDWS
BJE4-66-DRX - Auto Visual Tuner - W / 6-Speaker, W / HBC, W / LDWS
However, again, I could not find the one I needed on scrap yards, and the new one is not worth it.
As it turned out, this apparently affects the sound notification when leaving the lane.
Rumble doesn't work.
Beep - works.

When the speed reaches 70 km / h, the stripes on the projection screen are filled with white. When leaving the lane without the turn signal, the animation on the projection screen changes, and the Beep sounds, and the icon on the dashboard flashes (which turns orange).

HBC function:
In the daytime - nothing on the IC lights up when the high beam is turned on.
In the dark - when you turn on the high beam - a green light icon with the letter A inside lights up.
When the high beam turns on in motion, the standard blue icon lights up too.
I tested this system a bit at night. Haven't really understood the logic of operation yet, since there were no oncoming cars, as well as there were not very many lamps... But anyway, it's better than manually clicking back and forth. On the long roads, it really pissed me off to do it all the time.

Project estimate:
1. Short Cord - KD53-67-290A - $11.26 . New from USA w/o delivery.
2. Trim Cover - GHP9-67-Z31D - $11.80. New from the USA w/o delivery.
3. Trim Cover - GHP9-67-Z32C - $10.52 . New from the USA w/o delivery.
4. Harness Roof - INTERIOR MIRROR-DAY & NIGHT: AUTO> W / RAIN SENSOR> W / SMART CITY BRAKE SUPPORT> W / HIGH BEAM CONTROL, W / LANE DEPARTURE WARNING; W Sunroof - BLG1-67-130B - $46.19. New from the USA w/o delivery.
5.Interior Mirror - Auto, W / SCBS - KD46-69-220C - $6.57. Used from Poland with delivery.
6. Cluster Switch - DISCHARGE, W / AFS, W / HEAD LAMP CLEANER, W / HBC, W / LCA, W / I-STOP - GKL6-66-170A - $12.60. Used from Poland with delivery.
7. Laser Sensor - W / Smart City Brake Support - GHP9-67-XD0 - $5.07. Used from Poland with delivery.
8. Clock Spring - W / SCBS | W / O SCBS, W / AFS - KD49-66-CS0A - $10.08. Used from Poland with delivery.
9. Windshield Glass - W / HIGH BEAM CONTROL, W / LANE DEPARTURE WARNING - BHS5-63-900B-9D - $861,78. With installation - payed by insurance. In fact for me = $0.
10. Forward Sensing Camera - DB2R-67-XCX-B - $0. Gift from @Tristan-cx5. Our cars need a BHS2-67-XCX camera. In Poland, it is currently in the range of $90-100 without delivery.

+ I sold the old glass with a chip for $55. And maybe I will sell some more parts that I took off.

Total: $71.5. This amount does not include new glass and camera, but includes profits from the sale of old glass.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
i noticed your car doesnt have front or rear parking sensors or camera.
It does have rearview camera, but yeah, no parking sensors :(
 

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Discussion Starter #6
i don't think that would be difficult to do from what you accomplished now
Not that much interested in it.
Front parking sensors would be nice to have, but rear are useless basically, when I have camera.
But for everything to work well, I would need to install both, as far as I know.

Well, anyway, there are other more interesting things I want to add first. Who knows, maybe one day, I'll add those too.
 

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Not that much interested in it.
Front parking sensors would be nice to have, but rear are useless basically, when I have camera.
But for everything to work well, I would need to install both, as far as I know.

Well, anyway, there are other more interesting things I want to add first. Who knows, maybe one day, I'll add those too.
As far as i know, some markets offer the rear kit only, but you are probably right, for the front one to work you probably need the rear one.
 

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Congratulations on successful upgrade!! And thank you for this very detailed instruction how you've done it. I am very glad to see it worked for you, and I'm sure your work will be helpful for others that want to make similar retrofit.
I am considering to add FSC as I have all other stuff (LIDAR, auto-dimming mirror etc.) but now I know exactly which camera to look for and I suppose only FSC, short harness and windshield should be enough for me.
 

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I always enjoy seeing your upgrades. Thumbs up! I have a Euro 2015 Mazda 3 Sportnav (GT) but I don't have the HBC feature, LDWS, Blind Spot monitoring and MRCC. Looking at the windscreen it lacks just the FS camera. What activates the HBC? Does the FSC has anything to do with the HBC function? I do have auto lights, wipers, etc.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I always enjoy seeing your upgrades. Thumbs up! I have a Euro 2015 Mazda 3 Sportnav (GT) but I don't have the HBC feature, LDWS, Blind Spot monitoring and MRCC. Looking at the windscreen it lacks just the FS camera. What activates the HBC? Does the FSC has anything to do with the HBC function? I do have auto lights, wipers, etc.
Download Excel file in my sig and look at the first tab of it. It kinda explains which hardware is needed for which functions.
Also I did a table of parts that I need to retrofit various functions in my car. If you're interested, you can see it here: Mazda Part Numbers retrofit.xlsx
 
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Download Excel file in my sig and look at the first tab of it. It kinda explains which hardware is needed for which functions.
Also I did a table of parts that I need to retrofit various functions in my car. If you're interested, you can see it here: Mazda Part Numbers retrofit.xlsx
Thanks! Very informative. Apparently yes, it does use the forward sensing camera for the HBC.
So unfortunately unless the need comes to replace my windscreen, I'll stay without it. I might consider installing other features where possible.
 

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Super Cool post, and I hope you could help me, I had my wife's 2018 Mazda CX3 in accident had to replace the radar, bot the only one I found was from Mazda 3 part number BAEK-67XA1 i installed it did calibration but now I get error U2300 central Configuration invalid/incompetible Configuretion, if I start the car I get message when I delete the DTC with forescan light the error wont come back on unles I restart the car and everithing works exept the auto braking
 

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Super Cool post, and I hope you could help me, I had my wife's 2018 Mazda CX3 in accident had to replace the radar, bot the only one I found was from Mazda 3 part number BAEK-67XA1 i installed it did calibration but now I get error U2300 central Configuration invalid/incompetible Configuretion, if I start the car I get message when I delete the DTC with forescan light the error wont come back on unles I restart the car and everithing works exept the auto braking
Make an "initialization from central configuration" for SBS/MRCC unit, most probably it will solve your problem
 

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Make an "initialization from central configuration" for SBS/MRCC unit, most probably it will solve your problem
Thanks, I did it just as you told me, downloaded and installed FORScan Extended connected with Mazda VCM2 and did It, worked perfect just drove the car for 40km city and highway and no problems all is excellent.
By the way do you know if I can program second smart key with FORscan
 

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Thanks, I did it just as you told me, downloaded and installed FORScan Extended connected with Mazda VCM2 and did It, worked perfect just drove the car for 40km city and highway and no problems all is excellent.
By the way do you know if I can program second smart key with FORscan
I haven't programmed new keys myself but forscan has such option, so I think it is possible
 

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I haven't programmed new keys myself but forscan has such option, so I think it is possible
do you know where can I find more info on the function I have to choose in order to program the key is there a post in the forum
 

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Thanks, I did it just as you told me, downloaded and installed FORScan Extended connected with Mazda VCM2 and did It, worked perfect just drove the car for 40km city and highway and no problems all is excellent.
By the way do you know if I can program second smart key with FORscan
No, you can't do it with FORScan.
You need adapter kinda like OBDStar to program keys into the car.
 
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No, you can't do it with FORScan.
You need adapter kinda like OBDStar to program keys into the car.
Thanks SergSlim,it seems Forscan can do only the older keys but not the newer ones, I guess its time to find a good locksmith that will program my spare Smart Key, By the way do you know if I change my CMU firmware from NA to EU will I have any problems with my navigation SD Card that I managed to add EU maps as well as the NA ones.
 
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