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I am looking to replace my halogen yellow headlights in my 2018 Mazda 3 Touring Hatchback to cooler, blue lights. Because of so many differing opinions here about the efficacy of LED lights, I was thinking about replacing the halogen lights to 4300K halogens I found on CarID.

I can't post links to the exact model in question (new here), but it is the Vision X® - D Series Halogen Headlight Bulbs 4300K. When I try to check out, I get a warning

Fitment Notes: If your vehicle’s headlight bulbs have a DRL function, please ensure you turn the DRL function off and only use the headlights in the "on" position.

I don't want to keep the DRL off - any idea why that might be?
 

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I don't see any reason why the DRLs won't work with those bulbs, they are no different than whats in there already.
Those halogens won't be any better than what you have despite the claims. I have used different halogens bulbs, even the real expensive ones that claim to make huge improvements. None made that much of a difference over the factory installed bulbs. Go with LEDs, but a there couple things to know-

First, the DRLs won't work if you install LEDs. Only one will come on. The DRLs use the same bulb as the high beams but the ECU feeds a lower voltage when the head lights are not on.
Second, get your bulbs from a vendor that actually knows how to make the bulbs work.

These 9005 bulbs (or similar design) with this R-1 adapter are what you need to make the DRLs work with LEDs.

Do a search for LED headlights, there have been several posts recently that discuss how to make the DRLs work.
 

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I don't see any reason why the DRLs won't work with those bulbs, they are no different than whats in there already.
Those halogens won't be any better than what you have despite the claims. I have used different halogens bulbs, even the real expensive ones that claim to make huge improvements. None made that much of a difference over the factory installed bulbs. Go with LEDs, but a there couple things to know-

First, the DRLs won't work if you install LEDs. Only one will come on. The DRLs use the same bulb as the high beams but the ECU feeds a lower voltage when the head lights are not on.
Second, get your bulbs from a vendor that actually knows how to make the bulbs work.

These are what you need to make the DRLs work with LEDs.

Do a search for LED headlights, there have been several posts recently that discuss how to make the DRLs work.

@arathol, thank you very much for your response. I will do my due diligence and educate myself before undertaking this endeavor.

It is disappointing that the halogens don't make much of a difference. I really had thought that it would be the solution.

So, if I were to go with the recommendation, I would need 9005 for the high beam/DRL and H11 for the low beam ... and two of those R1 adapters (one for left and the other for the right), if I understand correctly.
 

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So, if I were to go with the recommendation, I would need 9005 for the high beam/DRL and H11 for the low beam ... and two of those R1 adapters (one for left and the other for the right), if I understand correctly.
You will need the H11 for the low beam, the 9005 for the highbeam, and one R-1 adapter harness. The way it works is this-
The LEDs don't draw anywhere near as much current as the halogens, so the ECU reads this as a malfunction and only one comes on. So, you need to trick the ECU into turning them on. The adapter has 2 parts, a short wiring harness and a resistor block. The R-1 harness is attached to the passenger side headlight plug on the cars wiring harness and extends across to driver side headlight. Both headlights are then attached to the harness, so both are being fed by the power source for the passenger headlight. The resistor block is secured to a bulkhead under the airbox behind the drivers side headlight and is attached to the cars wiring harness using the headlight plug. This resistor is what tricks the ECU into turning the DRLs on.
The low beams are plug and play, nothing else needed.
 

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@arathol, thank you for clarifying. Of course, explained this way it makes just so much sense :)

I found the instructions on iJDMToy's website and will try to follow the same. Ugh wouldn't it be easier if we could just replace the whole unit with a Grand Touring one with LEDs already installed. :/
@Stewie - as @arathol pointed out - I don't want to disable DRL... I'd like to maintain as much of the stock functionality as possible (while using LED's ;))
 

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[MENTION=292817]
I found the instructions on iJDMToy's website and will try to follow the same. Ugh wouldn't it be easier if we could just replace the whole unit with a Grand Touring one with LEDs already installed. :/
Check out the prices of the OEM LEDs....:surprise: $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$

 

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@arathol, thank you for clarifying. Of course, explained this way it makes just so much sense :)

I found the instructions on iJDMToy's website and will try to follow the same. Ugh wouldn't it be easier if we could just replace the whole unit with a Grand Touring one with LEDs already installed. :/
@Stewie - as @arathol pointed out - I don't want to disable DRL... I'd like to maintain as much of the stock functionality as possible (while using LED's ;))
 

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Man, so much fail for one night - sorry for the double posting. Time to get a cold one, and call it night.
 

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You will need the H11 for the low beam, the 9005 for the highbeam, and one R-1 adapter harness. The way it works is this-
The LEDs don't draw anywhere near as much current as the halogens, so the ECU reads this as a malfunction and only one comes on. So, you need to trick the ECU into turning them on. The adapter has 2 parts, a short wiring harness and a resistor block. The R-1 harness is attached to the passenger side headlight plug on the cars wiring harness and extends across to driver side headlight. Both headlights are then attached to the harness, so both are being fed by the power source for the passenger headlight. The resistor block is secured to a bulkhead under the airbox behind the drivers side headlight and is attached to the cars wiring harness using the headlight plug. This resistor is what tricks the ECU into turning the DRLs on.
The low beams are plug and play, nothing else needed.
So, if I understand you (and the diagram) correctly, there is a harness extending across from the passenger to the driver side ? Is there any concern for cable management?

Also, in the photos on the site, they don’t seem to be using the driver box for thus install — is that just the particular led light they chose?
 

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So, if I understand you (and the diagram) correctly, there is a harness extending across from the passenger to the driver side ? Is there any concern for cable management?

Also, in the photos on the site, they don’t seem to be using the driver box for thus install — is that just the particular led light they chose?
Yes, the harness connects to the passenger side headlight socket and goes across to the drivers side headlight. No problems with running the harness. I just secured it alongside the existing bundle that runs across the top of the radiator.
The LEDs I linked to have driver boxes. Those bulbs in the install guide are crap and don't use drivers.
 

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@arathol, thank you for clarifying. Of course, explained this way it makes just so much sense :)

I found the instructions on iJDMToy's website and will try to follow the same. Ugh wouldn't it be easier if we could just replace the whole unit with a Grand Touring one with LEDs already installed. :/
@Stewie - as @arathol pointed out - I don't want to disable DRL... I'd like to maintain as much of the stock functionality as possible (while using LED's ;))
Well, you'd be blinding people on the road unless you replace the housing as LED are designed to be used inside projectors not reflectors
 

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Beautiful... all around. I can't wait for the iJDMToy delivery drone on Friday.

That said I have read that the LEDs are not all legal as per the DOT regulation. :/ I do hope I don't get pulled over.
 

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Well, you'd be blinding people on the road unless you replace the housing as LED are designed to be used inside projectors not reflectors
Not at all. The (low beam) projector lens has the same cutoff as it did with the halogens, and projects just as far as halogens if you get decent bulbs.

A nice little byproduct is that the light also spreads to the left and right of the car a little more.

Edit: Oops, misread. The Highbeams will absolutely melt retinas haha. I cannot use them when around civilization because they shine about 15 feet high and 20 feed light, and probably illuminate between 1/8 and 1/4 of a mile in front of the car.
When the hi beam's DRL function is on (using the iJDMtoy R1 harness), they are at a fraction of their full power and are just bright enough to be usable as DRL's.
 

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The Highbeams will absolutely melt retinas haha. I cannot use them when around civilization because they shine about 15 feet high and 20 feed light, and probably illuminate between 1/8 and 1/4 of a mile in front of the car.
When the hi beam's DRL function is on (using the iJDMtoy R1 harness), they are at a fraction of their full power and are just bright enough to be usable as DRL's.
No, the high beams should have the same dispersion pattern as the halogens if you are using a quality bulb, except they are somewhat brighter so its more noticeable.


Low beams should be the same also
 
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