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Could someone please tell me exactly what happens when you remove the Bose amp from a 2014 Mazda 3 GT? I really want to upgrade the sound system and if I can remove the amp that would be great. If not where should I try to acquire a full signal after the Bose amp?

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Could someone please tell me exactly what happens when you remove the Bose amp from a 2014 Mazda 3 GT? I really want to upgrade the sound system and if I can remove the amp that would be great. If not where should I try to acquire a full signal after the Bose amp?

Thanks
I read in the Bose literature that the amp has a digital signal in rather than the usual analog low level RCA signals from most head units. If that is true, I haven't found any amps that would take in that signal. Therefore you would need a LOC that takes at least 4 inputs and recombines them into a plain stereo signal. AudioControl makes a LOC that does that. At a minimum, you would have to tie into both the front woofer signals and the right and left dash speakers -- both of which you would find underneath the passenger seat. All I did was use a LOC to add a powered sub to add the frequencies Bose reduced so the doors would not vibrate apart. I put the diagrams for doing that in another post somewhere. That way, I only needed a 2 channel LOC that would reverse the bass fall off function. I used the AudioControl LC2i LOC. I see no advantage in putting in your own amp for all of the speakers unless you change those speakers as well as the Bose amp has plenty of power for the speakers installed and amp distortion is just not a problem.
 
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The unit is actually both an amp and multiple tuners. If you were to remove it, you would have to replace those functions as well. If you did that, you would need to figure out how to have them receive the same signals from the CMU and respond in kind. It receives signals both internally from the tuners and digitally from the CMU (for Bluetooth, nav, and external audio), so it's not easy to replicate those functions as well.

If you don't want to use the default amp as all, it's much easier to just use an LOC and disconnect the stock speakers from the amp. If you do this though you'll have to add an eq so you can change the volume as the default volume controls will not work. Either that, or plug into the OBD2 port and decode the volume up/down requests so you can still use steering wheel and command knob controls.
 

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Thanks rvoll , I appreciate the feedback. I intend to replace most of the speakers ( i will simply disconnect the front center and rear pillar speakers ) and add an amp and subwoofer. I do have an LC6i , would that be connected after the amp to acquire the signal ? I will be using an Alpine PDX-V9 to power the new speakers and sub.
 

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Thanks Tinuviel. I will keep the HU and stock amp in place and add an additional amp. I assume if I keep the existing amp in place I can continue to use the current volume controls?
 

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Thanks rvoll , I appreciate the feedback. I intend to replace most of the speakers ( i will simply disconnect the front center and rear pillar speakers ) and add an amp and subwoofer. I do have an LC6i , would that be connected after the amp to acquire the signal ? I will be using an Alpine PDX-V9 to power the new speakers and sub.
Yes, you can connect the LC6i after the amp that is underneath the passenger seat. I still don't think you are going to gain much by replacing any of the Bose speakers, however. If you really want to add speakers, add a sub and directional tweeters with your amp. A sub is enough for me, but there are no dedicated tweeters in the system and the front dash speakers do not point directly enough for brilliant highs.
 

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Thanks again rvoll. I have fairly new components that I had installed and then removed from my last car. There was a huge difference between my after-market speakers ( Hertz HSK and HCX 6.5") and the stock speakers when I upgraded the previous vehicle. If these stock Bose speakers are the typical factory quality ie poor, I'm hoping to hear a marked difference with the upgraded speakers. The current system seems vague and "muddy" to me. I will be replacing the front door speakers with the HSK and the rear door speakers with the HCX. I am hoping that the Bose amp won't generate any errors if I simply disconnect the center front speaker and the two rear pillar speakers.

I will likey either use the 8" sub I already have or buy a 10" and use a sealed enclosure ( i like tight , responsive base rather than boomy ). I will let you know how it turns out.
 

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Thanks again rvoll. I have fairly new components that I had installed and then removed from my last car. There was a huge difference between my after-market speakers ( Hertz HSK and HCX 6.5") and the stock speakers when I upgraded the previous vehicle. If these stock Bose speakers are the typical factory quality ie poor, I'm hoping to hear a marked difference with the upgraded speakers. The current system seems vague and "muddy" to me. I will be replacing the front door speakers with the HSK and the rear door speakers with the HCX. I am hoping that the Bose amp won't generate any errors if I simply disconnect the center front speaker and the two rear pillar speakers.

I will likey either use the 8" sub I already have or buy a 10" and use a sealed enclosure ( i like tight , responsive base rather than boomy ). I will let you know how it turns out.
Clarity comes from the highs. Since I listen to a lot of classical music, clarity is important to me. You have large woofers in the doors and if you have bass pushed up it will sound muddy since that will de-emphasize the mids and highs. Just adding the sub will improve the clarity since tapping into just the front woofers will reduce them slightly and the highs and mids will come to life. My suggestion is to use your LC6i to at first just tap into the front woofers and add a sub. If you are then also unhappy, you can always change the other speakers. I've had $5,000 systems in my cars before, and the Bose speakers are just fine if properly used and balanced.
 

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Clarity comes from the highs. Since I listen to a lot of classical music, clarity is important to me. You have large woofers in the doors and if you have bass pushed up it will sound muddy since that will de-emphasize the mids and highs. Just adding the sub will improve the clarity since tapping into just the front woofers will reduce them slightly and the highs and mids will come to life. My suggestion is to use your LC6i to at first just tap into the front woofers and add a sub. If you are then also unhappy, you can always change the other speakers. I've had $5,000 systems in my cars before, and the Bose speakers are just fine if properly used and balanced.
I think your system is great for you. But don't forget to evaluate how others listen to there systems.

I find the door speakers absurdly bad with the bass 3 bars down.

The front speakers are great sounding. But are missing directional tweeters, the front speakers also seem to poop out before I'm happy. For me adding a performance amp and new front speakers is a must.

No small subs for me 15" sub is in the works. It will satisfy me the days when loud is not loud enough.

I used to sell and install car audio systems so I do know what bass heads and audiophiles like.
 

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I think your system is great for you. But don't forget to evaluate how others listen to there systems.

I find the door speakers absurdly bad with the bass 3 bars down.

The front speakers are great sounding. But are missing directional tweeters, the front speakers also seem to poop out before I'm happy. For me adding a performance amp and new front speakers is a must.

No small subs for me 15" sub is in the works. It will satisfy me the days when loud is not loud enough.

I used to sell and install car audio systems so I do know what bass heads and audiophiles like.
I can't disagree with you. The Bose system is not good for those who like loud music with "shake your car apart" bass. I agree totally with your comment abut missing tweeters and have said that on multiple occasions. The woofers in the door do poorly with mids so if you have them too high it sounds murky. Without tweeters, you miss the "twinkle" of the highs and without a sub the bottom sounds weak with the bass fall-off built into the system. As you have said, you can't run this system really loud as it doesn't have that much juice and the speakers can't handle that type of load.

And your first statement is right on target -- people do expect different things from their systems. Adding a sub really made a difference in sound clarity on mine as it changed the balance and I can hear the front dash speakers more clearly. I no longer want extremely loud music and people always tell me to turn the volume down -- so I don't have it that low.

But like anything we do to our cars, if you like it and can afford it, then go for it...
 
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i just tried running a high quality tweeters from dayton audio , took a feed from two front dash speakers without disconnecting the stock mid woofers
so far i just tried it without mounting the tweeters (there is no room under stock grills in the dash)
i build simple 8.2uf cap (polypropylene) crossover , results were very good , lot of high frequency details come out , sparkle and definition came out and on high quality recordings it brought more details and very clear and not colored or thin sounding , very easy on the ears .

I plan to mount them in the corners playing along with stock mid's (that are woofers and have to play tweeters role what seems like a mojor design flaw on Bose behalf)

Dayton Audio ND25FN-4 1" Neo Silk Dome Tweeter Element 4 Ohm
 

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Hi rvolll,

My installer has upgraded the front / rear speakers . added an alpine amp , lc7i and a subwoofer. Overall I'm very happy but it appears that they may not have acquired a "full" signal. What I do have now sounds great but there are parts of certain songs missing. I am wondering if I need an lc8i to capture all the necessary inputs.
 

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I think your system is great for you. But don't forget to evaluate how others listen to there systems.

I find the door speakers absurdly bad with the bass 3 bars down.

The front speakers are great sounding. But are missing directional tweeters, the front speakers also seem to poop out before I'm happy. For me adding a performance amp and new front speakers is a must.

No small subs for me 15" sub is in the works. It will satisfy me the days when loud is not loud enough.

I used to sell and install car audio systems so I do know what bass heads and audiophiles like.
I could not agree more!!
So the easiest advice for anyone thinking of upgrading their audio system—and it trumps ALL of our opinions and personal preferences. Just take a very good representative sample of your favorite music and listen to it in different cars and actually compare it to how it sounds in your current Mazda system. You be the judge. Then you can actually calculate if it worth X-dollars to upgrade your sound.

After reading several of these threads I almost decided NOT to upgrade my stereo. I was very lucky that a sound guy in my area had the exact system in his car that I was interested in. I played one song in his car then the same song in my Mazda. After 10 minutes it was obvious to me. I upgraded-sound processor, amp, front component speakers and amp. I have had the upgrade for a couple of weeks and it continues to cause me to grin every time I listen to it. I can tell you that my entire system's cost was not close to $5,000 and the improvement in sound quality is incredible. Best money I spent!

So my advise is to directly compare for yourself.
 

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Hi rvolll,

My installer has upgraded the front / rear speakers . added an alpine amp , lc7i and a subwoofer. Overall I'm very happy but it appears that they may not have acquired a "full" signal. What I do have now sounds great but there are parts of certain songs missing. I am wondering if I need an lc8i to capture all the necessary inputs.
I don't know exactly what was done and what leads were tapped. Bose has a built-in crossover/equalizer system that you cannot control. When you tap into specific leads, you are only getting the frequencies sent to those leads. So when adding a sub, the only leads you can tap into are for the front woofers. The AudioControl LOC's recombine a signal when you put in multiple inputs, but the problem is that they can't possibly know what the original music sounded like. That's why I don't recommend you try to replace the entire system using a LOC and why I only used an LC2i in my setup to only tap the woofers with the added advantage that it compensates for bass falloff. Now AudioControl told me that the tap only pulls a minute amount from the line. But my testing shows that in our Bose system, the amount is pulls is noticeable. Perhaps that is from the lower power ND magnets. So the output from my front door woofers is slightly less. That has the effect of changing the dynamics and I hear the front dash speakers more which adds a bit of brightness to the sound. To be honest, the sound does not match what I had in my Porsche where I added a custom $5,000 system. But the system is good enough to get compliments and much better than most of the other stock systems in small cars (but not as good as the high end systems in luxury cars).
 

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i just tried running a high quality tweeters from dayton audio , took a feed from two front dash speakers without disconnecting the stock mid woofers
so far i just tried it without mounting the tweeters (there is no room under stock grills in the dash)
i build simple 8.2uf cap (polypropylene) crossover , results were very good , lot of high frequency details come out , sparkle and definition came out and on high quality recordings it brought more details and very clear and not colored or thin sounding , very easy on the ears .

I plan to mount them in the corners playing along with stock mid's (that are woofers and have to play tweeters role what seems like a mojor design flaw on Bose behalf)

Dayton Audio ND25FN-4 1" Neo Silk Dome Tweeter Element 4 Ohm
The dash speakers in the Bose system are mid-high, not mid-woofers.
 

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.... construction of these drivers is more of a mids than highs oriented design. trust me harmonics and true high frequency details can not be reproduced properly by a woofer like speaker, dome tweeter does so much better there... i did try it and i heard lot better highs when tweeter crossed at 6khz was added to each L and R mids...
 

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.... construction of these drivers is more of a mids than highs oriented design. trust me harmonics and true high frequency details can not be reproduced properly by a woofer like speaker, dome tweeter does so much better there... i did try it and i heard lot better highs when tweeter crossed at 6khz was added to each L and R mids...
What about just replacing all the speakers and leaving all the bose amp/wiring in place?
 

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.... construction of these drivers is more of a mids than highs oriented design. trust me harmonics and true high frequency details can not be reproduced properly by a woofer like speaker, dome tweeter does so much better there... i did try it and i heard lot better highs when tweeter crossed at 6khz was added to each L and R mids...
Totally agree. Since I already have a sub, I'm considering getting a cheap LOC, a small amp, and a couple of tweeters to add on the pillars. The LC2i I have for the sub does have a main out but it taps the woofers in the front doors and doesn't carry high frequencies. I don't need any compensation for bass fall-off for the tweeters so a cheap LOC would be just fine. I don't want to just run it off of the front speakers directly because I'll lose too much mid. Adding the sub only cost me about $200 and I'm expecting the tweeters install to run about $60. Running the wires is far easier for the tweeters. The sound stage has improved significantly just adding the sub believe it or not. I think the LC2i pulls just enough from the woofers that the mids are louder by comparison. The increase in the mids goes mostly to the dash speakers, i.e., the soundstage. It surprised me as I was not expecting that result.
 

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Could someone please tell me exactly what happens when you remove the Bose amp from a 2014 Mazda 3 GT? I really want to upgrade the sound system and if I can remove the amp that would be great. If not where should I try to acquire a full signal after the Bose amp?

Thanks
OMG!!
When I researched this issue I was certain that I HAD to keep the Bose amp. Then I found a GREAT installer and he installed a Audison Bit One sound processor--Audison Voce 4-channel amp, to a pair of component speakers and a sealed 12 inch sub. He REMOVED the Bose amp!!!

My chain is: Bose OEM, Bit One sound processor, amp, and to component fronts & sub.

EVERYTHING works!! bluetooth, USB, AUX, blindspot monitoring-everything!

It is great because I can have the Audison Bit one under the passenger seat.

AND somehow, I have the full signal with the Audison Bit One processor. The Bit One has software that is able to equalize the signal coming out of the bose OEM--which is important.

So you actually CAN take the Bose amp out with certain set ups. Incidentally before I got my upgrade, I called Audiocontrol and they told me to leave the amp in with their equipment.
 
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