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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have my eye on the Corksport rear sway bar, however talked to a friend who knows way more about cars than I do, and his first question was "What about the front sway bar?"

He went on to tell me about how having only a rear sway bar (and no front) causes oversteer, since the back and front will now roll/sway differently, and messes with the handling.

So do these cars even have an option for a front sway bar? All I've seen is a rear, and I don't want to get it and induce oversteer
 

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Admiral Obvious
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These car have an inherent amount of under steer, getting one of smaller rear bars will lower your under steer almost to the point of "neutral" . The race bars are designed for use with sticker tires and allow the driver induce over steer at will, to get rear turned around quickly.

So depending on what you want to get out of it, easy driver, auto-x and/or track setup will determine what bar you need. ( so far you looks like you want to get one of the softer ones)
 

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I've the jbr rear sway bar and the car feels more neutral and a little towards the oversteer side when doing hard fast turns. However, the car never felt like it was going to be out of control or anything so I don't think there should be any problem with just the rear bar.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
These car have an inherent amount of under steer, getting one of smaller rear bars will lower your under steer almost to the point of "neutral" . The race bars are designed for use with sticker tires and allow the driver induce over steer at will, to get rear turned around quickly.

So depending on what you want to get out of it, easy driver, auto-x and/or track setup will determine what bar you need. ( so far you looks like you want to get one of the softer ones)
Hm I see, yeah I don't want a track car or anything. So a corksport rear sway bar would be good?
 

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The CS bar alone, even on the high setting will not cause oversteer. As sin_loki posted, we have understeer stock...I have the CS bar (v2) as well on the high setting (644 ft.lbs) and I'm closer to neutral but still on the understeer side. The CS bar is the mildest rsb upgrade for our car. Start on the low setting (494) but I would put money on you moving up to setting 2 and leaving it there after a short while.

I have my eye on the Corksport rear sway bar, however talked to a friend who knows way more about cars than I do, and his first question was "What about the front sway bar?"

He went on to tell me about how having only a rear sway bar (and no front) causes oversteer, since the back and front will now roll/sway differently, and messes with the handling.

So do these cars even have an option for a front sway bar? All I've seen is a rear, and I don't want to get it and induce oversteer
 

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FWD cars suffers from understeer, my installing a rear sway bar, it decreases this.
I would be more concerned about the sway bar brackets snapping or breaking..
as this was the case with going with a thicker sway bar...
luckily JBR manufactures some really heavy duty sway bar brackets... =)
definitely going to get these when it's time for me to upgrade
 

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I'm running JBR middle setting on stock endlinks for about 20k miles, still going strong.

Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 

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FWD cars suffers from understeer, my installing a rear sway bar, it decreases this.
I would be more concerned about the sway bar brackets snapping or breaking..
as this was the case with going with a thicker sway bar...
luckily JBR manufactures some really heavy duty sway bar brackets... =)
definitely going to get these when it's time for me to upgrade
Mannn I use to snap my endlinks all the damn time (On my Mazda6). I had Racing Beats front and rear sway bars... With racing beats endlinks.... Snapped 2 sets and decided to stop caring. Though I loved the handling when everything was right. lol
 

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If you want an upgrade on the cheap and wont bee too firm with the stock tires pick up a used stock speed 3 rsb .. just remember you also need the speed endlinks. Thats what I did and I couldnt be happier.
 

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If you want an upgrade on the cheap and wont bee too firm with the stock tires pick up a used stock speed 3 rsb .. just remember you also need the speed endlinks. Thats what I did and I couldnt be happier.
:threadjacked 1: so, the 2nd generation swaybar bolts on to the 3rd generation?

On topic, I had a si rsb on my non si civic, it was fun...If you drove irresponsibly on the street:cheesy: Could be fun on autox course too, but sadly that car never been on the course...
 

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Some of the posts in this thread confused me. They sounded like some were saying the 2014 Mazda 3 does not have a front sway bar. It does. I can only assume the concerns were actually about replacing the stock rear sway bar with a stiffer unit while leaving the front bar un-changed.

Stiffening the rear roll resistance is a common way to reduce understeer. FWD cars have a very forward biased weight distribution and typically show quite a bit of understeer. Stiffening the rear bar will actually reduce rear traction in corners so that the car is more prone to pivot about it's axis. Understeer can also be reduced by spring rate changes, f/r tire pressure bias and f/r tire size bias.

I had an early mark VW GTI with koni adjustable dampers, ST lowering springs, upper and lower front strut bars, upper rear strut bar, huge front bar and even bigger rear bar. The car was very neutral. It was a full race/auto-x setup. I played with rear tire pressures to fine-tune that rotation. With the mechanical changes in place, adding more tire pressure in the rear reduced the rear contact patch and help promote a neural characteristic. In tight corners the inside rear wheel/tire would actually be off the ground and the car would pivot so easily that you could control the angle with the throttle. Lifting throttle slightly in the curver would shift weight to the front and the rear would start to come around. Adding a little throttle would shift weight to the rear and the rear would come in line. You could take exit ramps at full reverse lock while looking out he diver's side window and controlling the angle of the car with your throttle foot. F'in awesome. The downside was that it was not very forgiving if cooking into a corner too fast. If you lifted, especially too abruptly, you would induce so much oversteer that you were likely to spin and back into the guardrail like a dentist-driven Porsche 911. Understeering cars, while able to reach the same apex speeds, are much more forgiving of entering a corner a bit too fast. Lifting can cause the front to push and this scrubs off speed and uless you have really over-cooked it, your speed drops enough to get front hook-up and make the curve before you run out of road.

With the bars sold for street use with our 3's, the f/r sway bar bias is still very street friendly and designed to keep you in understeer, just less of it than with the OE rear bar.
 
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