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Just make sure the adjustment locking nuts have loc-tite on them and are as tight as you can get them.
I second this. I have had the nut loosen twice since installing the Progress (stiff setting) swaybar with GRP endlinks. Once not long after initial install, the second time at the track a couple months later. I may have forgotten the loc-tite the first time, but I definitely didn't when I did the first re-tightening. The added stress at the track was enough to loosen it a second time. I re-torqued it at the track the second session and it hasn't come loose since.

Just remember, if you hear something that sounds like someone tapping on your subframe with a hammer (in automotive diagnostic speak, it would be considered a strong "clunk" sound), don't be too alarmed. Just check your endlink nuts, one of them is loose.
 

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It looks like you need to lengthen the end link a little. Loosen the two nuts on the middle spacer and turn the center spacer until the RSB is parallel to the subframe.. then retighten. I also measure the endlinks to make sure they are the same length on both sides.
CK
 

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It looks like you need to lengthen the end link a little. Loosen the two nuts on the middle spacer and turn the center spacer until the RSB is parallel to the subframe.. then retighten. I also measure the endlinks to make sure they are the same length on both sides.
CK
Don't measure them, that can lead to preload. Install one at the correct length, then adjust the other to fit accordingly. There is no guarantee that the bar is perfectly straight, so the end links might end up being slightly different lengths. Even so, as long as the mounting studs fit freely into the bar on both sides it will be fine.
 

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I've got a progress rear sway bar ordered. I'll be lowering the car on eibach springs same day. Since its such a minimal drop would I really need adjustable end links. I've seen a few people on hear and alot of people on a couple of the FB pages saying that the stock or Moog will be fine. I noticed CK ran moog with H&R springs, which are a little lower than eibach. Also its for 95% daily driving and 5% spirited back road driving. Would it make that big of a difference running on the softer setting temporary.
 

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The Eibachs lower the car 1" in the front an 1.3" in the rear. This will change the geometry of the swaybar enough that you need to install adjustable endlinks. If you don't, the bar won't work properly and damage to the endlinks may occur. Worst case is the improper attachment angle can pull the bar mounting brackets apart. If you don't re-align the rear bar geometry properly the end of the bar can also hit the bottom of the floor pan when the suspension is fully compressed.
 
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