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Progress RSB repositioned and tighteded..new HardRace adjustable end links installed front and rear.

They are easier to work with than the GRP end links, as they don't require you to secure the inner side of the ball joint to tighten them.

They also came with 14mm flat based nuts that could take much more torque when being tightened.

I'm pretty impressed with them so far, although I've only driven with them for a few miles.

While installing the front driver side end link I found some fun surprises that my dealership left for me...

Brake line clip that connects to the front strut was missing.. the brake line was just hanging where it was supposed to be connected..the ABS line clip that inserts into the strut was broken off and it was hanging loose.. part of the plastic from the clip was partially melted too.. zip tied both back into place..

The SPC camber bolt was reversed from toe in to toe out on that one side.. which explains why my car has been handling turns so badly these last few days..

I mean.. WTF!

I think I need to take some mechanic classes... so I never have to let someone else touch my vehicle ever again..
CK
 

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Okay, did some driving on the HardRace end links and they seem okay. Only problem is that the ball joints are super stiff (can't move them by hand) and they are making a clunking noise on turns or when they are dealing with any body roll. Whichever side is being compressed will clunk as the ball joint snaps into position from the pressure of the sway bar.

That same end link will then do it again when you finish the turn and straighten the car back out.

The handling is really good and they are staying nice and tight in there, but the clunking noise from the ball joints has me a bit worried.

Maybe they just need to be driven on for a little bit to loosen them up?

Front end links do it when taking entrances at an angle too.. just as the first tire hits the angled driveway, before turning up it with the other tire. It will then clunk again as the ball joint snaps back into place when straightening out and finishing things.

It's a little concerning, but I will stick with them for a little bit and see what happens.

They were installed with the suspension loaded and sized correctly. Rechecked them this morning and they are all staying tight and not rattling loose...

Strange..
CK
 

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Went for a long spirited drive this morning and the end links are now quiet.. YAY!

I guess they just needed to get broken in a little for the ball joints to start moving more freely.

Progress RSB works well with them too. My car was handling turns real cleanly with very little body roll and she felt super stable.

I'm a happy camper. I still have the GRP and Moog end links as backups.. just in case.
CK
 

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Went for a long spirited drive this morning and the end links are now quiet.. YAY!

I guess they just needed to get broken in a little for the ball joints to start moving more freely.

Progress RSB works well with them too. My car was handling turns real cleanly with very little body roll and she felt super stable.

I'm a happy camper. I still have the GRP and Moog end links as backups.. just in case.
CK
If I decide to replace mine I will probably grab those hardrace ones.
 

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The rear end links were easy to find. There's a distributor in Florida that has them. I can try to find details for you, if you would like me to.

The front end links took some doing, as I could only find them for sale in Australia. Luckily, the shipping cost wasn't too bad.

They have a shiny coating on the ball joints and the middle spacer has a blue powder coating.

I think you may be better off getting the Moog end links, since you are not lowered. They are fully powder coated and should handle tough weather a little better. That's just what I think though.
CK
 

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Went for a long spirited drive this morning and the end links are now quiet.. YAY!

I guess they just needed to get broken in a little for the ball joints to start moving more freely.

Progress RSB works well with them too. My car was handling turns real cleanly with very little body roll and she felt super stable.

I'm a happy camper. I still have the GRP and Moog end links as backups.. just in case.
CK
yeah they are. i have had one of the endlinks drop off before. the joint part came off leaving only the connector and the bottom joint.
 

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I'm liking them so far. I'm a little concerned by how the ball joint is welded to the threading that connects to the spacer. It doesn't look like a very strong weld, but I'm hoping that I'm wrong about that.

The GRP end links failed on me a few times. Two of the ball joints that connect to the RSB broke at the base. This happened to arathol too.

Not to mention the times they have come loose and mashed the threads, which required replacement.

So far these are staying tight and pretty quiet. I'm keeping my fingers crossed that they will last or I may try a different brand next. Super Pro or the Ebay ones I linked above. They look real sturdy.
CK
 

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The GRP end links for are not good and have the same minimum size of 15 cm (back) as those of the Moog.
 

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If the rear sway bar is parallel to the subframe (like it should) you would not be using the minimum spacing of the GRP end links. I had about an inch of thread exposed between the top and bottom ball joints in the rear.

We may have different ride heights that account for that.

With the HardRace end links, I also had to leave some thread exposed to properly line things up.

They are working really well and are staying nice and tight. I haven't pushed them very hard yet, but the few times I've taken a turn aggressively, they did a good job.
CK
 

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Moog end links measure 15 cm like the OEM ones.
 

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Yes. They are direct OEM replacements. They should be exactly the same size and same angles for the ball joints.

With H&R springs, adjustable end links are needed to properly position the RSB in relation to the lower mounting point.

Eibachs will work with OEM sized end links, but it wouldn't hurt to have adjustable end links, if you really want to dial things in.
CK
 

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Looking at Corksport's instructions, it says to remove the driver's rear wheel and remove the control arm bolt and spring. I'm thinking I can put the car up on ramps and access it that way w/o removing the tire and dropping the control arm and spring.

Question--has anybody been able to swap the RSB w/o removing the driver's rear tire?
 

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Looking at Corksport's instructions, it says to remove the driver's rear wheel and remove the control arm bolt and spring. I'm thinking I can put the car up on ramps and access it that way w/o removing the tire and dropping the control arm and spring.

Question--has anybody been able to swap the RSB w/o removing the driver's rear tire?
It would be a real pain to do it that way..... The bar needs to slide out of the rear subframe and the spring is in the way.
Did you measure the sway bar? If you haven't, do so. It should be 28" wide. Some CS bars are known to be too wide...about 30"....so they don't fit properly.
 

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It would be a real pain to do it that way..... The bar needs to slide out of the rear subframe and the spring is in the way.
Did you measure the sway bar? If you haven't, do so. It should be 28" wide. Some CS bars are known to be too wide...about 30"....so they don't fit properly.
Thanks.

It's here (along with the GRP end links) and will be installed today. Yep, it's 28". Last question (I hope)...I should adjust the new end links until the the new bar is completely parallel to the ground when installed?
 

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Thanks.

It's here (along with the GRP end links) and will be installed today. Yep, it's 28". Last question (I hope)...I should adjust the new end links until the the new bar is completely parallel to the ground when installed?
With the rear wheels on ramps so the suspension is loaded, set the the bar parallel to the chassis, not the ground. Install one end link on the lower control arm and adjust it to length, then with the bar in the correct position attach it to the bar. Next, attach the other end link to the other lower control arm on the opposite side of the car. Adjust the length so the upper stud slides freely through the hole in the bar without having to move anything. This will give you zero preload on the bar and it will work correctly. Just make sure you torque everything properly. Use good ny-lock nuts where ever you can and make sure you put the right nuts on the right end of the end links as sometimes they have different threads. Applying blue Loc-tite on the end link fasteners and adjustments will help keep them from coming loose.
 

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With the rear wheels on ramps so the suspension is loaded, set the the bar parallel to the chassis, not the ground. Install one end link on the lower control arm and adjust it to length, then with the bar in the correct position attach it to the bar. Next, attach the other end link to the other lower control arm on the opposite side of the car. Adjust the length so the upper stud slides freely through the hole in the bar without having to move anything. This will give you zero preload on the bar and it will work correctly. Just make sure you torque everything properly. Use good ny-lock nuts where ever you can and make sure you put the right nuts on the right end of the end links as sometimes they have different threads. Applying blue Loc-tite on the end link fasteners and adjustments will help keep them from coming loose.
274490

This is what I ended up with. I feel like it needs to be kicked up a smidge.
 

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Looks pretty close....as long as the bar is more or less parallel to the chassis and the end links are close to 90° in relation to the bar it should be fine. Just make sure the adjustment locking nuts have loc-tite on them and are as tight as you can get them.
 

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Gotcha. I’m going to push it up a smudge and bring the bottom more towards 90° with a couple of washers.

Thanks for all your help!
 
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