[willdude]

I'm replacing the shocks and struts on my '14 3 soon, and there's one part I'm having trouble finding - the stud bolt and nut for the rear shocks. This is #2 and #4 on the below diagram from the service manual.

I've found online catalogs for suspension parts, and talked to a local dealer's parts department, but neither have anything saying what these parts are. I'd like to have them on hand, in case the existing ones are rusted or stripped. Any ideas?

 

[Ken Hill]

I'm replacing the shocks and struts on my '14 3 soon, and there's one part I'm having trouble finding - the stud bolt and nut for the rear shocks. This is #2 and #4 on the below diagram from the service manual.

I've found online catalogs for suspension parts, and talked to a local dealer's parts department, but neither have anything saying what these parts are. I'd like to have them on hand, in case the existing ones are rusted or stripped. Any ideas?

View attachment 282599

I sourced a pair of 12x1.25x70mm grade 8 bolts from a local well stocked hardware store. I installed them with a great deal of anti-seize.

 

[jmaister]

I sourced a pair of 12x1.25x70mm grade 8 bolts from a local well stocked hardware store. I installed them with a great deal of anti-seize.

doing mine today, WHAT A PAIN! cant get it off!!!!

But thanks for the bolt suggestion!!

 

[jmaister]

Tool recommendation: Breaker grip wrench(Canadiantire). (maybe by other name elsewhere)

Amazon US https://www.amazon.com/s?k=power+grip+wrench&crid=3CJJ9NBBIS0MO&sprefix=power+grip+wrench,aps,135&ref=nb_sb_noss_1

Oem tokico shocks sleeve is quite thick(bilstein b4 is also thick), cutting endup not being a solution for me.

I bought Stud extractors, and was afraid it would snap the exposed stud since it was slipping abit( i know eventuall it will grab...but this stud isnt perfectly round), so i bought grip wrench.

Surprisingly, with a pipe as extension, the stud moved. After that it was straight forward tho I think Mazda definitely made this more difficult for diy guys on purpose.

I also had the coil spring broken on the same side, so lowering the control arm made the job "easier"... Tho nothing about this job is easy compare to gen 2.

Edit: both rear coil spring snapped around the same spot... I guess overdue shocks does that...

Pic with nut on: tried cutting, but it has alot of mass on it.
Pic with both: both of these have white threadlocker... google says its for heat. I guess the knuckle has less material this gen and things get real toasty? 30" of leverage moved them.

 

[rdy105]

I just did this repair yesterday. Passenger side came off fine, but the driver side had essentially welded to the stud. I used a pickle fork and small sledge to get the shock off, heated up the rubber and scraped as much off as I could. I then used a pipe wrench and was able to get the stud out. I got a M12x1.25 at HD - they didn't have a 70mm, so I went with a 65mm. Hopefully that won't cause problems later on.

 

[Pez]

To answer the question in the topic...

These parts are all listed on webEPC.
The stud Part number is 9YA9-01-216
The nut Part number is 9YB0-41-243
...and the washer part number is B45A-28-999

 

[crvgt]

To answer the question in the topic...

These parts are all listed on webEPC.
The stud Part number is 9YA9-01-216
The nut Part number is 9YB0-41-243
...and the washer part number is B45A-28-999

thanks for the part numbers - i am dealing with this now....could not get the shock mount off the stud. I have never removed studs before so was curious if there was any difference in the direction these should turn. Looking at the stud from the front, would these turn counter-clockwise to remove?

 

[crvgt]

thanks for the part numbers - i am dealing with this now....could not get the shock mount off the stud. I have never removed studs before so was curious if there was any difference in the direction these should turn. Looking at the stud from the front, would these turn counter-clockwise to remove?

actually i realized i responded in a Mazda 3 forum (a car i also own), but i actually was interested in the part numbers on a 2014 Mazda CX-5 - any idea if these stud part numbers are the same? Unfortunately, all of the sites i looked at showed the shock attached with a bolt, not a nut to a stud.....

 

[jmaister]

actually i realized i responded in a Mazda 3 forum (a car i also own), but i actually was interested in the part numbers on a 2014 Mazda CX-5 - any idea if these stud part numbers are the same? Unfortunately, all of the sites i looked at showed the shock attached with a bolt, not a nut to a stud.....

I'd look for a JIs bolt type 12x1.25x70mm

I would not go back to that stud, its just asking for trouble. The amount of torque required to move that requires leverage bigger than that allen head.

 

[crvgt]

I'd look for a JIs bolt type 12x1.25x70mm

I would not go back to that stud, its just asking for trouble. The amount of torque required to move that requires leverage bigger than that allen head.

I'd look for a JIs bolt type 12x1.25x70mm

I would not go back to that stud, its just asking for trouble. The amount of torque required to move that requires leverage bigger than that allen head.

thanks for your response. Just to make sure i understand your suggestion, you are saying don't even replace the old stud with a new stud, but rather use a "hex" bolt instead to screw into the stud mount/knuckle? If that was what you were suggesting, what material should this bolt be made from? Obviously, i am no bolt expert! Lastly, to remove the stud, i am going to try a pipe wrench - assume it is counter-clockwise? thanks again for your help!

 

[jmaister]

thanks for your response. Just to make sure i understand your suggestion, you are saying don't even replace the old stud with a new stud, but rather use a "hex" bolt instead to screw into the stud mount/knuckle? If that was what you were suggesting, what material should this bolt be made from? Obviously, i am no bolt expert! Lastly, to remove the stud, i am going to try a pipe wrench - assume it is counter-clockwise? thanks again for your help!

Yes, hex bolt. I also reuse the washer. Oem washer was keyed in the inside, I dremmeled it round.

Jis is Japanese automotive grade. It is ISO grade 10.9, equivalent to SAE grade 8.
There is also ISO 8.8, which is equivalent to SAE grade 5.

Dont know the material, but I went by 10.9 at a local specialty shop.

*standard thread direction. It's stupid tough. It's almost like Mazda purposely made this hard since gen 2 was really easy to do.

 

[crvgt]

Yes, hex bolt. I also reuse the washer. Oem washer was keyed in the inside, I dremmeled it round.

Jis is Japanese automotive grade. It is ISO grade 10.9, equivalent to SAE grade 8.
There is also ISO 8.8, which is equivalent to SAE grade 5.

Dont know the material, but I went by 10.9 at a local specialty shop.

*standard thread direction. It's stupid tough. It's almost like Mazda purposely made this hard since gen 2 was really easy to do.

thanks so much for the info - will give it a try shortly. One last question if I may - there is a torque spec difference for the stud itself (21-39 ft-lbs.) and the stud nut (62-73 ft-lbs.). If I will be using only a hex bolt now, what torque number would you think i should follow? For the applications which use only a hex bolt by design, it looks like the torque spec is 110 lb-ft - which is a lot higher than the torque specs of the stud/nut combination.

 

[jmaister]

thanks so much for the info - will give it a try shortly. One last question if I may - there is a torque spec difference for the stud itself (21-39 ft-lbs.) and the stud nut (62-73 ft-lbs.). If I will be using only a hex bolt now, what torque number would you think i should follow? For the applications which use only a hex bolt by design, it looks like the torque spec is 110 lb-ft - which is a lot higher than the torque specs of the stud/nut combination.

There is a tensile strength and torque table somewhere that says what size of bolt can be torqued to which ftlb.... (was watching Donut media earlier today lol). And since tensile strength cannot be extracted without getting too fussy, torque is what ppl have adopted per se. That's on the bolt. But for application it maybe different. Most torque number are (per Donut, 70-90% of elastic zone). I doubt we need to go there with rear shocks.

So usually(use your own discretion here®©), I don't really check the torque number on rear shocks. I go by the" if I can't move my standard size ratchet anymore" tightness.

Those that have done the job will tell you 39ftlb on the stud is a outright lie. It took 100+ to break it loose.

I go by the stud/nut number as a start. But I would not be surprised if you start having resistance earlier than 62lbs.

Video of interest

 

[crvgt]

There is a tensile strength and torque table somewhere that says what size of bolt can be torqued to which ftlb.... (was watching Donut media earlier today lol). And since tensile strength cannot be extracted without getting too fussy, torque is what ppl have adopted per se. That's on the bolt. But for application it maybe different. Most torque number are (per Donut, 70-90% of elastic zone). I doubt we need to go there with rear shocks.

So usually(use your own discretion here®©), I don't really check the torque number on rear shocks. I go by the" if I can't move my standard size ratchet anymore" tightness.

Those that have done the job will tell you 39ftlb on the stud is a outright lie. It took 100+ to break it loose.

I go by the stud/nut number as a start. But I would not be surprised if you start having resistance earlier than 62lbs.

Video of interest

well i got one of the studs off....located an M12 JIS bolt, but unfortunately, it is definitely thinner than the stud on the CX-5. It is too thin to be screwed into the knuckle. I would guess the CX-5 stud is at least a 14?.....I cannot seem to find any documentation as to what the size of this stud is, or what the part number even is. If anyone knows how to find the bolt size, please let me know. Otherwise, i would be off to the dealer to see if they can help. thanks again

 

[jmaister]

well i got one of the studs off....located an M12 JIS bolt, but unfortunately, it is definitely thinner than the stud on the CX-5. It is too thin to be screwed into the knuckle. I would guess the CX-5 stud is at least a 14?.....I cannot seem to find any documentation as to what the size of this stud is, or what the part number even is. If anyone knows how to find the bolt size, please let me know. Otherwise, i would be off to the dealer to see if they can help. thanks again

Is it the right thread? The bolts I got from earlier suggestion doesn't fit flush with the bottom shock mount. It's a tiny bit thinner tho It was the right thread. (edit: further finding said, Mazda OEM stud uses "cut thread bolt." what most bolt places sell is "roll thread bolt"

Edit:Regardless. I keep forgetting ur asking for a cx 5.

You may want to head to the cx5 forum. **Get a vernier caliper and measure the bolt.

 

[crvgt]

Is it the right thread? The bolts I got from earlier suggestion doesn't fit flush with the bottom shock mount. It's a tiny bit thinner tho It was the right thread. (edit: further finding said, Mazda OEM stud uses "cut thread bolt." what most bolt places sell is "roll thread bolt"

Edit:Regardless. I keep forgetting ur asking for a cx 5.

You may want to head to the cx5 forum. **Get a vernier caliper and measure the bolt.

I've watched that video many times....had to laugh at how easy it was for him to get the shock off the lower stud....in any event, i have confirmed the part number for my CX-5. It is 9YA901410. It is an M14 x 1.5. I ordered those from Mazda, as well as some 70mm bolts from some other online source. I will try to use the studs, but am worried I won't be able to get them deep into the knuckle using only an 8mm socket....i guess we will see. If that seems to be a problem will try the bolts, hoping they are the right ones....

 

[jmaister]

I've watched that video many times....had to laugh at how easy it was for him to get the shock off the lower stud....in any event, i have confirmed the part number for my CX-5. It is 9YA901410. It is an M14 x 1.5. I ordered those from Mazda, as well as some 70mm bolts from some other online source. I will try to use the studs, but am worried I won't be able to get them deep into the knuckle using only an 8mm socket....i guess we will see. If that seems to be a problem will try the bolts, hoping they are the right ones....

get a thin wirebrush, even better if its of the rotational tool attachment. clean the threads, it will help with fitting the new bolt/stud.

ur almost there!!

 

[crvgt]

get a thin wirebrush, even better if its of the rotational tool attachment. clean the threads, it will help with fitting the new bolt/stud.

ur almost there!!

job done....getting the new stud in was actually pretty easy. Bought a 1/2" drive 8mm socket just in case - don't think my 1/4" was up to the job. Put anti-seize on the stud just in case this needs to come off again. Thanks for the help along the way. Will tackle the 2010 Mazda 3 front end in a month or two. Never changed lower control arms before so that will be a first

 

[jmaister]

job done....getting the new stud in was actually pretty easy. Bought a 1/2" drive 8mm socket just in case - don't think my 1/4" was up to the job. Put anti-seize on the stud just in case this needs to come off again. Thanks for the help along the way. Will tackle the 2010 Mazda 3 front end in a month or two. Never changed lower control arms before so that will be a first

Gen 1 and gen 2 kind of similar.

Not affiliated, it's one of the videos I watched before tackling the suspension jobs last few weeks.