Rear camber kit options

19520 Views 38 Replies 8 Participants Last post by Hensman16, Apr 28, 2020

curvyroads28

Discussion Starter · Jan 21, 2018

To all who have adjustable rear camber kits:

What choice did you make for your rear camber adjusting needs? Has anybody tried the Moog (p/n 100303) or SPC (p/n 67415) rear camber/toe kit with the toe arm and extended arm bolt adjuster? What is the true range of adjustment? Does it REALLY provide +/- 3 degrees of camber adjustment??

I ordered the Moog kit (its basically the same as the SPC kit, I think it even has SPC stamped on the arms). I should be installing it in a couple weeks and if I feel patient enough that day, I might do a little write-up on it. I liked the idea of easier access for adjustment and adjusting toe by rotating the wheel inward at the bottom instead of outward at the top where it will creep closer to the fender. I haven't read or seen much about people using this particular style of kit, anybody out there use it?

21 - 39 of 39 Posts

arathol

· #21 · May 4, 2019

Its not as hard as it looks. The subframe only needs to be lowered enough to get the bolts out, two or three inches maybe. As I said, just back off the rearmost subframe nuts, remove the front ones. It can be done without an impact but the subframe nuts are torqued to about 85 ft/lbs. You'll need some sort of breaker bar for those.

Reactions: 1

CerealKiller

· #22 · May 4, 2019 (Edited)

arathol said:
Its not as hard as it looks. The subframe only needs to be lowered enough to get the bolts out, two or three inches maybe. As I said, just back off the rearmost subframe nuts, remove the front ones. It can be done without an impact but the subframe nuts are torqued to about 85 ft/lbs. You'll need some sort of breaker bar for those.

From reading the CS instructions and the JBR instructions...I need to remove the bottom end links and let them hang loose. Disconnect the axle-back and let it hang. CS says to support it with a loop of thread if you are only using 2 hangers.. remove the upper nuts connecting the dampers and leave them loose.. remove springs.. remove tires..

I'm confused..
CK

CerealKiller

· #23 · May 4, 2019 (Edited)

I haven't even started researching how to install the front adjustable camber bolts. Hopefully that will be easy enough.. Got some research to do.
CK

First line of instructions..remove tire and wheel assembly..yay..rest looks easy enough though.

arathol

· #24 · May 4, 2019

CerealKiller said:
From reading the CS instructions and the JBR instructions...I need to remove the bottom end links and let them hang loose. Disconnect the axle-back and let it hang. CS says to support it with a loop of thread if you are only using 2 hangers.. remove the upper nuts connecting the dampers and leave them loose.. remove springs.. remove tires..

I'm confused..
CK

I don't remember removing or disconnecting that much stuff . Wheels off yeah, exhaust, no, springs, no, disconnecting the dampers might make it easier, when you lower the front of the subframe the sway bar just pivots down with the endlinks so I didn't remove them, but it probably would simplify things.....
But then again I didn't have any instructions either so I just figured it out as I went along.....:dunno:

dturro88

· #25 · May 5, 2019

Currently working on it, man this is hard. BUT!
Patient, patient.....
Nothing disconnected but the wheels.
I cannot seem to brake lose that nut, the one we must lower the subframe for, tie space in there, cannot get a cube wrench in it.
That is what have taken the most time on the process

arathol

· #26 · May 5, 2019

dturro88 said:
I cannot seem to brake lose that nut, the one we must lower the subframe for, tie space in there, cannot get a cube wrench in it.
That is what have taken the most time on the process

There is no nut. The bolt head is on the outside.

It threads into a captive nut that does not move.

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dturro88

· #27 · May 5, 2019

arathol said:
dturro88 said:

I cannot seem to brake lose that nut, the one we must lower the subframe for, tie space in there, cannot get a cube wrench in it.
That is what have taken the most time on the process

Click to expand...

There is no nut. The bolt head is on the outside.

It threads into a captive nut that does not move.

The bolt yes, my English needs to improve in hardware names haha.
It’s out, just dealing with massive rain here now, all wet under the car, horrible mess.
I already got one side camber/toe. Just need to torque.

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arathol

· #28 · May 5, 2019

dturro88 said:
The bolt yes, my English needs to improve in hardware names haha.
It’s out, just dealing with massive rain here now, all wet under the car, horrible mess.
I already got one side camber/toe. Just need to torque.

Ah, ok...:smile2:

Make sure you torque all the subframe nuts to ~80 ft/lbs and the arm bolts to ~75. If you don't there will be a lot of clunks and creaks when you are driving...:surprise:

dturro88

· #29 · May 5, 2019

3

arathol said:
dturro88 said:

The bolt yes, my English needs to improve in hardware names haha.
It’s out, just dealing with massive rain here now, all wet under the car, horrible mess.
I already got one side camber/toe. Just need to torque.

Click to expand...

Ah, ok.../forums/images/Mazda3Revolution_2014/smilies/tango_face_smile.png

Make sure you torque all the subframe nuts to ~80 ft/lbs and the arm bolts to ~75. If you don't there will be a lot of clunks and creaks when you are driving.../forums/images/Mazda3Revolution_2014/smilies/tango_face_surprise.png

Haaaaaaa
Done!!!!!
Ready for alignment, but that for the professionals.

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arathol

· #30 · May 5, 2019

dturro88 said:
Haaaaaaa
Done!!!!!
Ready for alignment, but that for the professionals.

Cool...but its on backwards.....:surprise::bash:

HA.....>

:laughing001:
Looks good......:thumbup 1:

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dturro88

· #31 · May 5, 2019 (Edited)

3

arathol said:
dturro88 said:

Haaaaaaa
Done!!!!!
Ready for alignment, but that for the professionals.

Click to expand...

Cool...but its on backwards...../forums/images/Mazda3Revolution_2014/smilies/tango_face_surprise.png

HA...../forums/images/Mazda3Revolution_2014/smilies/tango_face_devil.png<img src="https://mazda3revolution.com/forums/images/smilies/laughing001.gif" border="0" alt="" title="laughing001" class="inlineimg" />
Looks good......<img src="https://mazda3revolution.com/forums/Smileys/default/thumbup 1.gif" border="0" alt="" title="Thumbup 1" class="inlineimg" />

Crap, the letters are up side down:shocked:.....but whatever :lol 1:. I’m soaked and wet, worked on the rain the entire time. Nobody can see that down there heheh.
Alignment shop can rotate that for me on alignment. I’ll give them a tip for that hahaha @CerealKiller you are next! >

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CerealKiller

· #32 · May 6, 2019

Yeah..I stuck to just doing the RMM this weekend.

Maybe next weekend..

Congrats on getting it done.
CK

rand0m

· #33 · May 9, 2019

Nice. I need to do this for my rears. Installation instructions look kind of daunting. Been really lazy about working on the car lately.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

dturro88

· #34 · May 10, 2019 (Edited)

rand0m said:
Nice. I need to do this for my rears. Installation instructions look kind of daunting. Been really lazy about working on the car lately.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Is really not that hard, do t even look at the instructions, I followed arathol very short and precise advice hahaha. My frustration was due to the weather, raining the entire time. Put a jack underneath it by the front center, don’t worry to much about the subframe falling down on you, the dampers will hold the subframe, preventing it from falling. I found that disconnecting the endlinks will give you a couple of inches of drop which will help you getting the bolts out. There is a brake line bracket on the driver side right in the bolt’s way, take that bracket out first abuse it will help you clear the bolts path(see picture). Passenger side is very easy. Entire job would have taken around 2 hours if it wouldn’t have been raining so much.
So far no clink clank clunk sounds, all good.

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Hensman16

· #35 · Apr 26, 2020

Just started to get into really modifying my car, have a 2015 Mazda 3 Sport and I have to say this thread absolutely saved my life for the install of the rear camber arms. I looked at the instructions and was thinking, there’s no way that I’m going to have to disconnect all of that and completely drop the subframe. But thanks to your help I have managed to install them! Thanks

Reactions: 1

CerealKiller

· #36 · Apr 26, 2020

I installed the JBR rear camber arms and they have been working great.

I followed the instructions from JBR and CS and it wasn't too bad. They are pretty similar and you can figure it out easy enough. Having a breaker bar for the subframe bolts is a big help.
CK

Reactions: 1

Hensman16

· #37 · Apr 27, 2020

Don’t mind me though as I’m a tool and forgot to even think about adjustable toe arms, went to give the camber a strong alignment and wouldn’t you know, toe went all wonky. Been quite some time since I modified a car but just ordered some so hopefully they won’t be too long before they’re in! The hardest part I found of the whole install was managing to drop the subframe straight. Took me about an hour of wiggling back and forth before it finally came down far enough to remove the inner camber arm bolts. But I got the camber arms installed along with my CS RSB at the same time, and while I was in the mood decided to install my JBR RMM and CS STB. Took the car out for a drive and man did it ever feel different, but in a good way, only problem was the RMM makes the vibrations quite intense I find with the intake and axle back I have. I’m just waiting on my short shifter plate, shift knob and shifter bushings along with cable bushing and FSB from James Barone to come in and then I’m gonna go ahead and tear the front end apart

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CerealKiller

· #38 · Apr 27, 2020

I have the CS RMM and I had my min idle raised to 750 RPM. Sounds good.

I've heard the JBR RMM adds more NVH too from other members.

I installed the Megan Racing Adjustable rear toe arms and SPC front camber bolts too.
CK

Hensman16

· #39 · Apr 28, 2020

CerealKiller said:
I have the CS RMM and I had my min idle raised to 750 RPM. Sounds good.

I've heard the JBR RMM adds more NVH too from other members.

I’ve been thinking about getting an OV tune to pep it up a little bit, but yeah definitely gonna have to take the JBR RMM out. With the Ultimate Racing axleback, it seems like just as the vibrations from the RMM cut out the drone kicks in well for me at least

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