I plan on doing it myself...I'm just trying to persuade myself into doing it. Gonna be a lot of work...
CK
CK
Rear camber kit options
To all who have adjustable rear camber kits:
What choice did you make for your rear camber adjusting needs? Has anybody tried the Moog (p/n 100303) or SPC (p/n 67415) rear camber/toe kit with the toe arm and extended arm bolt adjuster? What is the true range of adjustment? Does it REALLY provide +/- 3 degrees of camber adjustment??
I ordered the Moog kit (its basically the same as the SPC kit, I think it even has SPC stamped on the arms). I should be installing it in a couple weeks and if I feel patient enough that day, I might do a little write-up on it. I liked the idea of easier access for adjustment and adjusting toe by rotating the wheel inward at the bottom instead of outward at the top where it will creep closer to the fender. I haven't read or seen much about people using this particular style of kit, anybody out there use it?
What choice did you make for your rear camber adjusting needs? Has anybody tried the Moog (p/n 100303) or SPC (p/n 67415) rear camber/toe kit with the toe arm and extended arm bolt adjuster? What is the true range of adjustment? Does it REALLY provide +/- 3 degrees of camber adjustment??
I ordered the Moog kit (its basically the same as the SPC kit, I think it even has SPC stamped on the arms). I should be installing it in a couple weeks and if I feel patient enough that day, I might do a little write-up on it. I liked the idea of easier access for adjustment and adjusting toe by rotating the wheel inward at the bottom instead of outward at the top where it will creep closer to the fender. I haven't read or seen much about people using this particular style of kit, anybody out there use it?
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I'm gonna take the family out for lunch and some shopping. I'll hopefully get some beer and just throw myself at it afterwards.. If my car wasn't driving so well, I'd be far more motivated to do this.
CK
CK
From reading the CS instructions and the JBR instructions...I need to remove the bottom end links and let them hang loose. Disconnect the axle-back and let it hang. CS says to support it with a loop of thread if you are only using 2 hangers.. remove the upper nuts connecting the dampers and leave them loose.. remove springs.. remove tires..Its not as hard as it looks. The subframe only needs to be lowered enough to get the bolts out, two or three inches maybe. As I said, just back off the rearmost subframe nuts, remove the front ones. It can be done without an impact but the subframe nuts are torqued to about 85 ft/lbs. You'll need some sort of breaker bar for those.
I'm confused..
CK
I haven't even started researching how to install the front adjustable camber bolts. Hopefully that will be easy enough.. Got some research to do.
CK
First line of instructions..remove tire and wheel assembly..yay..rest looks easy enough though.
CK
First line of instructions..remove tire and wheel assembly..yay..rest looks easy enough though.
Yeah..I stuck to just doing the RMM this weekend.
Maybe next weekend..
Congrats on getting it done.
CK
Maybe next weekend..
Congrats on getting it done.
CK
I installed the JBR rear camber arms and they have been working great.
I followed the instructions from JBR and CS and it wasn't too bad. They are pretty similar and you can figure it out easy enough. Having a breaker bar for the subframe bolts is a big help.
CK
I followed the instructions from JBR and CS and it wasn't too bad. They are pretty similar and you can figure it out easy enough. Having a breaker bar for the subframe bolts is a big help.
CK
I have the CS RMM and I had my min idle raised to 750 RPM. Sounds good.
I've heard the JBR RMM adds more NVH too from other members.
I installed the Megan Racing Adjustable rear toe arms and SPC front camber bolts too.
CK
I've heard the JBR RMM adds more NVH too from other members.
I installed the Megan Racing Adjustable rear toe arms and SPC front camber bolts too.
CK
1 - 7 of 39 Posts
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