3
Turned out to be a pain to install as the inner arm-to-subfame bolts were inserted from the outside prior to the subfame being installed
Rear camber kit options
To all who have adjustable rear camber kits:
What choice did you make for your rear camber adjusting needs? Has anybody tried the Moog (p/n 100303) or SPC (p/n 67415) rear camber/toe kit with the toe arm and extended arm bolt adjuster? What is the true range of adjustment? Does it REALLY provide +/- 3 degrees of camber adjustment??
I ordered the Moog kit (its basically the same as the SPC kit, I think it even has SPC stamped on the arms). I should be installing it in a couple weeks and if I feel patient enough that day, I might do a little write-up on it. I liked the idea of easier access for adjustment and adjusting toe by rotating the wheel inward at the bottom instead of outward at the top where it will creep closer to the fender. I haven't read or seen much about people using this particular style of kit, anybody out there use it?
What choice did you make for your rear camber adjusting needs? Has anybody tried the Moog (p/n 100303) or SPC (p/n 67415) rear camber/toe kit with the toe arm and extended arm bolt adjuster? What is the true range of adjustment? Does it REALLY provide +/- 3 degrees of camber adjustment??
I ordered the Moog kit (its basically the same as the SPC kit, I think it even has SPC stamped on the arms). I should be installing it in a couple weeks and if I feel patient enough that day, I might do a little write-up on it. I liked the idea of easier access for adjustment and adjusting toe by rotating the wheel inward at the bottom instead of outward at the top where it will creep closer to the fender. I haven't read or seen much about people using this particular style of kit, anybody out there use it?
1 - 11 of 39 Posts
3
Turned out to be a pain to install as the inner arm-to-subfame bolts were inserted from the outside prior to the subfame being installed
Yeah, you need to lower the subframe to get them out. You can't even reverse the bolts to make it easier as there is a captive nut on the frame..:frown2:Last I looked, I would have to drop the sub frame down in order to gain access to those bolts. Is this what you experienced?
What are you doing with the front springs?I am still making changes to the suspension, including an upgrade to the front springs.
Hmmm...I see.
Thats what, almost 5x the OEM rate? Is it possible that maybe you just aren't getting enough weight transfer to the front when braking? Have you changed the F/R spring rate ratio much? Are the dampers up to controlling those spring rates on such an uneven surface? Just throwing out some other possibilities to consider.....:dunno:
Thats what, almost 5x the OEM rate? Is it possible that maybe you just aren't getting enough weight transfer to the front when braking? Have you changed the F/R spring rate ratio much? Are the dampers up to controlling those spring rates on such an uneven surface? Just throwing out some other possibilities to consider.....:dunno:
Ha, yeah that would do it. Washboards and 12k springs don't mix well.... :smile2:
Thinking a bit more on this, is it possible that the dampers are handling compression better than rebound, or vice versa, and are jacking themselves either up or down on the rough surface, resulting in poor response? Maybe turning the settings down a few clicks would help?
Sounds like you torqued the bolts with the suspension at full droop? The bushings don't move much and twist with suspension movement. If the bolts are torqued with no load on the suspension, the bushings will be twisted and uneven when loaded. Put the car on ramps, loosen up the suspension bolts and re torque with the suspension loaded normally. That might solve the problem as long as everything else is right.
Its not as hard as it looks. The subframe only needs to be lowered enough to get the bolts out, two or three inches maybe. As I said, just back off the rearmost subframe nuts, remove the front ones. It can be done without an impact but the subframe nuts are torqued to about 85 ft/lbs. You'll need some sort of breaker bar for those.
I don't remember removing or disconnecting that much stuff . Wheels off yeah, exhaust, no, springs, no, disconnecting the dampers might make it easier, when you lower the front of the subframe the sway bar just pivots down with the endlinks so I didn't remove them, but it probably would simplify things.....From reading the CS instructions and the JBR instructions...I need to remove the bottom end links and let them hang loose. Disconnect the axle-back and let it hang. CS says to support it with a loop of thread if you are only using 2 hangers.. remove the upper nuts connecting the dampers and leave them loose.. remove springs.. remove tires..
I'm confused..
CK
But then again I didn't have any instructions either so I just figured it out as I went along.....:dunno:
There is no nut. The bolt head is on the outside.I cannot seem to brake lose that nut, the one we must lower the subframe for, tie space in there, cannot get a cube wrench in it.
That is what have taken the most time on the process
It threads into a captive nut that does not move.
Ah, ok...:smile2:The bolt yes, my English needs to improve in hardware names haha.
It’s out, just dealing with massive rain here now, all wet under the car, horrible mess.
I already got one side camber/toe. Just need to torque.
Make sure you torque all the subframe nuts to ~80 ft/lbs and the arm bolts to ~75. If you don't there will be a lot of clunks and creaks when you are driving...:surprise:
1 - 11 of 39 Posts
- This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
2004 to 2020 Mazda 3 Forum and Mazdaspeed 3 Forums
Come discuss all things Mazda 3 from the Mazda GT hatchback to Mazdaspeed, sedan and sport.
Full Forum Listing
Recommended Communities
