[grendels_m3]

I have a 2017 hatch. The front were super easy to install. However before I start installing the second I had a question about the rear. The installation manual says ideally you look at where you need to drill the liner with the liner on the car. However I have looked up from the back and I can't see where you can see the back of the liner from under the car. This would make things easier as I would know exactly where to drill instead of just going by what they show in the install guide.

Next question is you have to remove the wheels or jack up the car. Seems jacking up the car is easiest. Can you just put a hydraulic jack under the rear end somehow instead of having to use the spare tire jack? If so where did you jack it up?

Finally do you have to do this jacking up or removal because you can't slide the liner straight down to get it off?

 

[Road Trip]

I am not going to be able to answer all your questions, but to share what worked perfectly for me.

First, I loosen/broke the torque on the rear lug nuts on one side. Then I jacked it up using the factory jack (between the two little raised, vertical lines on the very bottom underneath edge, about 8" in forward of where the body stops where the rear tire starts). If you choose not to use the OEM jack, you will want to put something under that edge, such as a hockey puck, piece of strong wood (that will not split from the sharp body edge). I then removed the wheel -- so much easier. By removing the factory plugs and starting the provided screws through the pre-drilled RB two holes, one into the top hole and and the other into lower/inner hole (screwing them in just until they "catch," using a level for the bottom edge of the Rokblokz, was able from the side to see exactly where to drill the RB (up and down), and measured inward with a thin screw driver, then measuring how far it went in. You can do this because you can see in from the side -- again with the upper and innermost screws just turned in a couple of turns.

We do have a jacking thread if you want to do a floor jack, but Mazda inconveniently ran the fore-to-aft exhaust pipe right under where you jack it up. Please see this thread if you want to go that route.

http://mazda3revolution.com/forums/...iscussion/39714-where-lift-points-2014-a.html

When I had taken the RB back off and drilled the hole, again progressively larger sized drill bits as per the instructions, put it back on, but only tightened it 90% (still allowing some final "leeway" to push or pull it gently to get it perfectly straight, for you will not know what is perfectly straight/what you want, until the car is back on the ground on its own weight (and only after you have done the other side).

To do the final tightening, I have a cheap-o set of three screwdrivers, each one additionally is like a "block letter "C", however with one of its legs going backwards, (one end going right, the other left (one end Phillips, the other regular screwdriver), that I picked up years ago at an auto parts bin for $.99. Since the legs are so short, you can tighten the last 10% with the wheel back on, and again with the car fully back resting on the ground.

Best of luck, and not to stress about the perfect place to drive that middle hole through the RB's because with the washers on the screws, you have both up/down and inside-outside about a 3/16" grace where the washer will cover it. However, using the above method, you will find you hole is probably spot on.

 

[arathol]

If you intend to lift the car and remove the wheel please do it correctly. Use a floor jack to lift the car, use pinchweld adapters and always use jackstands. Never rely on a hydraulic jack or the jack provided with the car as the sole means of support. The jack points are just behind the front wheels and just in front of the rear wheels. The pinchweld itself is not supposed to be used to lift the car. There is a reinforced area behind it that is the actual lift point. The adapters lift the car from both sides of the pinchweld and prevent it from being crushed.

jack point with pinchweld adapter


jackstand with adapter

 

[grendels_m3]

How are those adapters supporting the body as they aren't as high as the welds. Seems more like those are just supporting the welds on the side.


Thanks I've heard of those adapters before. I'll pick up a couple (one for other car).

So it seems the rear I can get to with a hydraulic jack based on that thread. I'll borrow a low profile one if my older one can't reach or buy one.

On the Rally Armor there are only three screw unlike the RB. The third one screws into the adapter RA provides so there is only 2 holes to drill (on the edge of the liner).

Yeah removing the wheel is obviously the easiest thing. I can get to the fasteners that hold the liner on but I'm guessing the problem is you can't get the liner out with the small space there and RA even implies that raising the car is enough to give you space.

Why didn't they make holes in the liner darnit? So silly.

 

[arathol]

How are those adapters supporting the body as they aren't as high as the welds. Seems more like those are just supporting the welds on the side.

Those fit pretty tight. When you jack up the car the pad is pushed all the way onto the pinch weld.

 

[Road Trip]

Thanks @arathol for your above posts. Appreciate the reminder, that I had left out posting my use of jackstands. I am never anywhere under a car without them, for my sake. And always use for additional protection for the car too. When I do my caliper painting in a week or two, I will have four jackstands, two floor jacks, and as triple protection, some extra 8"X8"X18" 's -- as I did when I did my WRX's calipers.[/I]

Thank you for reminding us all.

 

[Aymen]

thanks for the help

 

[turbonium911]

I installed RA mudflaps as well, didn't have to remove the wheel or jack it up at all to install them. I have 18" OEM wheels on mine and still have enough clearance to get a right-angle driver in there. Removing the inside shroud can also be done easily with the wheel still in place. I guess it depends on how flexible you are. Took me an hour and change to do, but most of it was spent it getting the right measurements before I drilled into the shroud.

 

[grendels_m3]

I installed RA mudflaps as well, didn't have to remove the wheel or jack it up at all to install them. I have 18" OEM wheels on mine and still have enough clearance to get a right-angle driver in there. Removing the inside shroud can also be done easily with the wheel still in place. I guess it depends on how flexible you are. Took me an hour and change to do, but most of it was spent it getting the right measurements before I drilled into the shroud.

That's what I was hoping for. I already bought a small right angle screwdriver. The other fastener can be pulled out with fingernails like the front ones and the other is a nut that I think is only hand tight anyway.

I would think how high up or how low to drill is easy right as you just have to pull back on the liner and peek in there and make a mark? I guess the horizontal part is tougher.

 

[Road Trip]

I would think how high up or how low to drill is easy right as you just have to pull back on the liner and peek in there and make a mark? I guess the horizontal part is tougher.

Correct and correct. Again peeking in from the side with a tiny screwdriver, taping or marking or noting how far it goes in, will give you an excellent idea about how far in horizontally. And re the latter, with the really big black washers they provide, not critical to be precise on this measurement. If your initial drill is not perfect, and with a 1/4" hole you have drilled, no need to do get your perfect placement, but even if you are still need more alignment wiggle room, remove the RB, drill the middle hole one size wider, and it will work perfectly. [I did not need to drill the hole a size larger...]