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Hi all,

i just would like to know if this DIY video , about how to change rotor and brake pad on a Mazda 6 is ok for my 2015 Mazda 3 .


Cause it's look realy easy compare to the "Old" Mazda 3 (i did it on my Gen2)

Thx All
 

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Eeks..

1. Don’t use lubricates on rotors
2. Don’t bang up your wrench. That is what mallets are for.
3. The rotor is in pretty good shape (visually) but he does not check the runouts.. So not sure if he really needs to replace it.
4. He is removing the caliper and the caliper mount at the same time.. that just seems harder. By doing this, he is not inspecting the sliding pin and putting a lot of stress on the dust boot.

This is a pretty good video.
 

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#1 If someone living in the 'rust belt' watches this and thinks they are going to take a rotor off by doing that you are in for a rude awakening.
#2 It would be a very good idea to clean the mating surface of the hub where the rotor sits.
#3 Watching this guy work reminds me why I never loan out tools.
 

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Wow what a hack job. This is a great video to learn what not to do.

He should be using a breaker bar to get the mount bolts off, but hey all he's going to damage is himself and I'm quite alright with that.

Hammering on the disc with the socket wrench is a good way to break it as well as putting dents into your rotor if you have any intention of reusing it. Use a rubber mallet! Pb blaster is not needed with one even in rust prone areas.

Anyone else note that he didn't clean anything?? New rotors can have a very light oil coating to prevent corrosion and even just from manufacturing. So he just glazed his pads. Awesome.

The piston tool is nice, but there's other ways. Get creative with a large c clamp and some sockets.

My biggest gripe: where's the torque wrench? There's specs on bolts for a reason, not just for fun. Your brakes are for your safety treat them like it. He also rammed the lugs on with the impact...stupid. granted, I can't tell if his gun has a limiter on it but with the way he's going probably not. Good way to break the wheel studs.

No mention of cleaning up the caliper at all. Greasing the slide pins is a must at the very least. Unless you like your caliper to seize that is.

No mention of inspecting seals, hoses, etc.

One thing I'd add from my experience: anti-seize lubricant. Put a bit on the mount bolts. I even put a little on the lugs. This will make future repairs so much easier. Know how bolts break when they get old and seized? It's because nobody uses this stuff. My old car was 11 years old in rusty Canada. Broken bolts simply did not happen because I use this stuff everywhere I can.
 
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