[warlord]

Yes I installed the rear shocks. To install the rear shocks you unbolt everything from the outside of the car. It's a very easy install that takes only about 20 minutes per side. It will solve your problem. My car is very smooth with the prokits now.

 

[Exup]

Yes I installed the rear shocks. To install the rear shocks you unbolt everything from the outside of the car. It's a very easy install that takes only about 20 minutes per side. It will solve your problem. My car is very smooth with the prokits now.

Thank you very much.

I couldn't find that info anyhere :mellow 1:

If possible, could you please tell me, on the rear shocks how can I tune the rebound? On the front shocks you have access to the knob inside the engine compartment, but on the rear shocks...??

Thanks again.

Hugo.

 

[Argon]

Where did you get the torque specs for these?

 

[warlord]

Thank you very much.

I couldn't find that info anyhere :mellow 1:

If possible, could you please tell me, on the rear shocks how can I tune the rebound? On the front shocks you have access to the knob inside the engine compartment, but on the rear shocks...??

Thanks again.

Hugo.

The shocks have to be off the car to adjust them. Compress the shock fully then twist to the desired firmness. Then install.

Where did you get the torque specs for these?

The upper mounts I couldn't torque. Wrench won't fit. When you get your koni's they have a sheet of paper that gives torque values for an assortment of different size bolts.

 

[pepperdro]

OBRIGADO! the only portuguese I know is from Capoeira..."Capoeira mata um..." lol. Good info on the rear shocks... didn't know that.

 

[Hoku]

Nice write up. Thanks.

 

[myt_tuf1]

So I got my front shocks installed today (koni yellows, I did it myself), but for some reason there's a clunking sound coming from the driver's side shock, it kinda sounds like something's not tightened all the way. I took my wheel back off and made sure everything was tight, and also retightened the nut on top of the shock was tightened down good too. I can't think of what else might be causing the sound, and why it's only the driver's side. I can't always hear the noise, but it seems to happen more often when I'm coming to a stop, or am going slow (like less than 20MPH) and the road is a little rough, or uneven). Do you have any insight on this?

 

[Argon]

Did you tightenthe center top nut only or the 3 surrounding ones? I had some clunking when I put mine in on the right side and it was just the 3 nuts at the top not tightened to the correct spec.

Is the spring seated correctly on the strut?

 

[myt_tuf1]

I'm pretty sure those are all tightened to spec, but I'll check again in the morning. I'm almost positive the spring is where it's supposed to be, but I'll check on that too... Thanks for the input!

 

[MDLockard]

How does the car respond with the pro-kit installed?

Also, can you intstall Koni's with the stock springs? Or are there aftermarket springs that retain factory ride height? I want to improve handling but keep my clearance for driveways, gravel/ dirt roads, etc.

Matthew

 

[myt_tuf1]

So all the bolts in the engine bay are tight, so no issues there. I noticed when the shocks are set to 100% soft, that the noise appears more. I think I'll take the wheel off again, and make sure all the bolts down there are tight, if I can't find the problem there, I'm gonna have to take the shock out again, and see what I can find.

 

[warlord]

I'm pretty sure those are all tightened to spec, but I'll check again in the morning. I'm almost positive the spring is where it's supposed to be, but I'll check on that too... Thanks for the input!

What did you touque each of the bolts to?

How does the car respond with the pro-kit installed?

Also, can you intstall Koni's with the stock springs? Or are there aftermarket springs that retain factory ride height? I want to improve handling but keep my clearance for driveways, gravel/ dirt roads, etc.

Matthew

Racing Beat are the closest to stock height.

 

[myt_tuf1]

I found out what the problem was, the front sway endlink on the driver's side was loose, where it bolts to the shock... Just tightened that badboy up, and no more clunking noises. =)

 

[warlord]

I found out what the problem was, the front sway endlink on the driver's side was loose, where it bolts to the shock... Just tightened that badboy up, and no more clunking noises. =)

Torque it to 40 lbs with a drop of loctite and you'll never worry about it again.

 

[warlord]

Original post has been updated with accurate torque settings and a few install tips.

 

[jankyboy]

Thanks again for the how-to... I found it spot on, and it helped tremendously!

Few of my lessons learned... perhaps they'll help others, too:

1. Regarding Warlord's note on aligning the end of the spring to the nub on the upper spring perch - this is very important. Initially, I misaligned the nub and found my steering difficult and my front suspension clunked when I drove over bumps. Removed, aligned correctly - clunks went away and the steering felt normal.

2. The 17mm upper mount nut... I didn't tighten mine enough since I didn't have a crowsfoot socket to torque to spec. With it too loose, my springs squeaked when the car moved up/down. Tightened it (not too tight) and the squeaks went away.

3. Regarding sanding the paint at the bottom of the strut... go to home dept, buy a metal brush that fits in your drill... so much faster than sanding by hand. By time I hit that point in the install, my arms and hands were sore from banging my hammer to loosen the strut. The last thing I wanted to do was sand by hand

Moral of the story... follow the how-to to the letter, and like Warlord's ride, you should have no clunks, creaks, squeaks, or moans from any of the aftermarket suspension components.

 

[wizkid817]

So I got a question, since I am doing this hopefully this weekend.

When you remove the strut, the center bolt at the top keeps the top and the spring and everything together, right? So when I get it loosened from the lower arm mounting point and remove the 3 upper bolts I will then use the compressors to shrink the spring then undo the center nut, unclip the dust boot and pull that whole thing up with the boot and top to not separate the bearings right? Then take the spring off, uncompress it, compress the new one and line it up with the bottom perch on the strut. Do I need to align anything for the top?

Then I'll replace the top, reclip the dust boot, install the nut in the center and tighten it down, then I can uncompress and replace it, right?

Sorry.... for some reason everyone in Charlotte and surrounding areas wants $500.00 w/o alignment.... no thank you.

And I know this is for the fronts but.... For the rear springs I need to do what exactly? Undo the endlinks and drop the arm slowly or? I read the rear koni install but wasn't sure about the springs part.

 

[warlord]

So I got a question, since I am doing this hopefully this weekend.

When you remove the strut, the center bolt at the top keeps the top and the spring and everything together, right?Yep, then loosen the center nut a half turn before you do anything else. It's alot easier then doing it after you get the strut out. It's tight and you have better leverage while it's in the car. So when I get it loosened from the lower arm mounting point and remove the 3 upper bolts I will then use the compressors to shrink the spring then undo the center nut, unclip the dust bootfrom the bottom otherwise you'll loose the bearings. and pull that whole thing up with the boot and top to not separate the bearings right?As long as the bottom of the boot is unclipped fist you won't loose the bearings when. Then take the spring off, uncompress it, compress the new one and line it up with the bottom perch on the strut. Do I need to align anything for the top?Yes, the upper tip of the spring aligns with a nub on the elliptical upper mount(you'll see it). Take note of where the tip of the oem is. You do the same with the Road Magnet. The upper mount swivels so you can always get the top to align with the nub and the bottom to sit square in the lower perch at the same time.

Then I'll replace the top, reclip the dust boot,The bottom of the dust boot doesn't clip to the koni, you have to use a zip tie. install the nut in the center and tighten it down,Use blue loctite on the center nut. then I can uncompress and replace it, right?Yes. Also there's another nub on the top inside of the mount. That faces inward in the engine bay. Otherwise the three 14mm bolts won't line up. The 14mm bolts only get 20-25lbs of torque. Don't over tighten them or you'll warp the top mount..
Sorry.... for some reason everyone in Charlotte and surrounding areas wants $500.00 w/o alignment.... no thank you.Yea, screw that. Pm me and I'll give you my cel #. You can call if you get stuck on some part of the install. The front springs want to twist when you lower the car. Make sure the bottom tip of the front spring is solidly in the lower perch when the car is sittling on the ground with all it's weight. If it isn't turn the wheel, jack up the car slightly and twist it by hand till it is otherwise you'll get clunking.

And I know this is for the fronts but.... For the rear springs I need to do what exactly? Undo the end links and drop the arm slowly or? I read the rear koni install but wasn't sure about the springs part.

The end links nuts are easy to strip. The easiest way to do springs is to remove the four 14mm bracket bolts that hold the sway to the frame. Just let the sway bar hang from the end links. Then remove the 17mm bolt from the lower control arm that holds the spring in. Grab the spring with one hand and then tap the lower arm with a mallet till it separates.The spring is under a little pressure so that's why you have a hand on it so it doesn't snap at you. You could also place a jack under the control arm and lower it little by little as you tap the control arm. Either way don't get hit by the spring. It won't kill you but it would hurt. Put the rubber cap on the new spring and install it lining up the the lower tip of the spring with the notch in the lower arm. Jack up the control arm while making sure the bottom tip is still in the notch. the spring naturally wants to twist as it compresses. Put the 17mmm bolt in and torque to 55 lb and the bracket bolts to 35 lb. If I missed anything let me know. Oh yea, the closely spaced coils face upwards on the rear springs. You'll be done in 4-5 hours if you work carefully and methodically. Torque and Loctite every bolt and nut.

After the install you may hear the front springs twang a few times and the suspension may make a few noises that you didn't have before the install. It's normal and part of the suspension settling in with all the new parts that have to mate together. It happened every time I disassembled the suspension and installed new springs. In a few weeks the noises will all go away and if you did the install carefully the car will be quieter and feel more solid over bumps than it ever was stock.

 

[2010mazda3]

hey dumb question. how do you install the rear springs?

 

[helruiz]

quick question: I have my 2010 mazda 3 lowered with H&R sport springs. after installing the Koni front struts, is my car going to be a little bit lower?