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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
This thread would be worthless without pics soooo here's the install of just the front koni struts. I've had the prokits installed for three months already. Next month I'll have the rear koni's. Car rides nice. Low speed handling is better. I'm still testing the different settings for cornering. Suspension also feels more solid going over speed bumps.
The piston travel on the koni is about an 1 1/2" longer than the oem's. The oem dust boot is therfore a little shorter. A zip tie around the bottom of it holds it in position perfectly and looks ok. The paint on the lower part of the koni strut is thicker so it has to be sanded down a bit to make it fit into the lower control arm easier. Other than that there is no difference than installing an oem strut. TIP: Unclip the bottom of the dust boot before you try to pull the stock spring off the strut. You won't loose the bearings that way. TIP: Putting the strut back into the lower control arm hole is the biggest problem. Sand the bottom paint on the strut then wipe grease on it. Place it on the hole and line up the fin on the strut with the slot in the hole then put a jack under the contol arm and jack it up till the spring is compressed a little bit. The strut will only go in when it is perfectly lined up and perpendicular with the hole (not easyto do). Take a rubber mallet and tap the strut lightly all the way around. When the strut is exactly perpendicular to the hole it will snap in with authority (boom). There will be no doubt that it is fully seated.TIP: Check the brake dust guard after the install (especially the bottom part) they will rub and make noise in turns if they are even close to the rotors. They are thin metal so just bend them away.
Note: Disregard torque settings in the pics; the following are the correct settings

Torque settings Front:
14mm upper mount bolts 25 lbs
17mm upper mount nut 40-50 lbs (If you don't have a crows foot socket to torque it just tighten it firmly with loctite.)
14mm endlink nut 40 lbs
17mm lower control arm bolt 55 lbs

Torque settings rear:
17mm lower control arm bolt 55 lbs
14mm endlink nuts 40 lbs

It's best to finger tighten bolts and then torque in increments with a load on them. So what I mean is to place a jack under the control arm and jack up a little then torque the bolts. Same goes for swaybars. Your install will be tight and clunk free. Oh yeah, use Loctite or Permatex blue on everything.
My install went perfectly and I've had no problems.


















 

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Thanks for the detailed pics ! Looking forward to seeing the rest.......:clap:
 

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I love how you started off with: "this thread would be worthless without pics"!!! Too funny!:clap:

Good info, and good write-up!
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
Each quarter turn of the knob increases the stiffness by 10%. The stiffer you set them the slower the springs uncompress after hitting a bump. Around town 60% works nicely keeping the car smooth with the Prokits. If I did most of my driving on a smooth interstate or I had stiffer springs (I might buy Road Magnets) I would probably up the settings to about 80%. If I tracked the car I'd just crank them all the way up. The compression rate is non adjustable and seems to be about the same or a tiny bit more than the stock struts. When you hit bumps there is no hard jolt. The extra 1.5" of travel compensates for the 1.5" you lose when you put the prokits in and insures that you won't bottom out. It feels like I'm driving a more expensive car with an A-arm suspension. They also sound better when your going over bumps. They have more of a dull sounding thump. So far they have exceded my expectations and with addition of the rear shocks and camber links it will only get better. This is where I bought them from: http://www.streetunit.com/Struts_s/89.htm
 

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Nice Pictures. Thanks for the links to streetunit.
 

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@Warlord

just a quick question.. did you consider on the FSDs?
you probably did your research before getting the yellows.. so the yellows is better cause of the adjustable knob?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Did you think about getting one of the coil over kits they offered?
I think the Koni's are a better deal for the price. They have the damping adjustability of the the coilovers plus you have the option of putting any aftermarket springs that you want on. That means that I can pick my drop and also the stiffness. With coilovers you can adjust the drop but you are stuck with the springs that they give you. Plus the $500 I saved I can put into other mods.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
@Warlord

just a quick question.. did you consider on the FSDs?
you probably did your research before getting the yellows.. so the yellows is better cause of the adjustable knob?
I read on other forums that the yellows were better for lowered cars. When I recieved them I saw why. They have 1.5" more travel than the oem's. IDK how much travel the FSD's have? I'm just not a fan of one size fits all products that are supposed to be all things to all people. Also seems that alot of the hardcore crowd over on M3F have yellows more so than FSD's. The biggest reason I bought them was that I like to tinker with things! Adjusting them is easy and you can really feel the difference between settings. You can crank them down so you can feel every ripple in the road or loosen em up and feel like your driving a hoovercraft. I have them dialed in so sweet right now. The FSD's may be great for all I know. Someone should chime in that has them.
 

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I read on other forums that the yellows were better for lowered cars. When I recieved them I saw why. They have 1.5" more travel than the oem's. IDK how much travel the FSD's have? I also read that people were having problems with FSD's at 20k miles. Also seems that alot of the hardcore crowd over on M3F have yellows more so than FSD's. Third reason I bought them was that I like to tinker with things! Adjusting them is easy and you can really feel the difference between settings. I have them dialed in so sweet right now.
thanks! :clap: i might take this route also..
how's the softest setting feel compared to the OEM?
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 · (Edited)
Later I'll turn them all the way soft and try it. I'll let you know!

EDIT: Well I tried it and the car drives like a marshmallow. Kinda like driving an old luxury car with about 100,000 miles on the shocks. If you want a mind numbing drive going back and forth to work this would be the way to go. No road feel or quick steering response. Turning them to full stiff is just as bad. It feels like you have four flat tires. The prokits don't have a high enough spring rate to rebound fully before the next bump. On a really smooth road they might be alright. On really bumpy roads I'd say it would be entirely possible to jackhammer them into full compression and run out of suspension travel. If you want to run the koni's on full stiff you'd have to up the spring rates. That being said I'm running them at 60% which works great with the prokits. Prokits=160lb spring rate / Racing Beat=150lb / Tein-H160lb / Progress=150lb / Roadmagnet=330lb / Megan Racing=250lb / Most coilovers are between 300-500lb
 

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excellent, these are next in my future. I have run Koni shocks on every car I have had except my Legacy GT as they didn't offer them in direct replacements.
 
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