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Hi All, first post:

Question: Has anyone removed or disabled the Clutch Delay Valve on a current model 2014 Mazda 3 SP25GT? Or have ideas how it can be done? I'm VERY keen to give it a try. Thanks for any help in advance!

Background: I have issues with my manual 2014 SP25GT. Since I drove it off the lot, it's had this horrible 'gap' in when the clutch reacts to being let out. More often than not, this results in jerky/rough changes no matter how carefully I drive, because the clutch catch point seems to keep moving, or change in feel. It's worse in the lower gear changes, and from stationary. It enrages me on a daily basis as I normally LOVE driving, but this is an absolute nightmare. I've driven a wide range of manual cars including a Skyline with a heavy duty dual clutch plate, so I know it's not my driving causing the issue :p I've taken it to Mazda more than 20 times over the years (no exaggeration) and they eventually replaced the entire clutch assembly (including flywheel), but it made no difference and they insist it's behaving normally. I've driven others of the same car and they felt WAY better. Long story short, I've given up on Mazda helping and the car's now out of warranty anyway.

A very knowledgeable friend who works at a Euro performance shop drove it and within seconds of driving the car said he thinks the problem is the Clutch Delay Valve (CDV). He said it's meant to prolong the life of the clutch and smooth out gear changes for people who can't drive manual well, but for some cars it makes it feel worse. He said it's a common mod in Volkswagen cars for the valve to be disabled by simply unscrewing it and repressurising/draining the clutch cylinders again. I've seen guides for doing it to other cars (BMW) but none for Mazdas.

Thanks for any help in advance,
Ben
 

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Had never heard of this and didn't know ours had it.

I know, I'm often revving the engine too much when releasing the clutch for 1-2 and often 2-3 shifts in the 3. Whereas, the MX-5 seems to catch so much quicker and don't have this issue on it. Figured it was just a difference in the way the clutches are designed to catch. Had no idea that there is a delay valve. I'll be interested in hearing some replies to this.

Ralph
 

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Never seen one mentioned in the service manuals
Then again -

I've driven others of the same car and they felt WAY better.
If your car is the only one with the problem, chances are its your car that is the problem. The fact that Mazda replaced the clutch under warranty makes that even more likely as they would not have done so if they didn't think there was a problem. Seems like one of two things happened - they knew what the issue was and screwed you over, or they knew there was a problem but couldn't find it and screwed you over. Either way......
The car should have been fixed under warranty, it wasn't for whatever reason.
 

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You aren't maybe talking about what this guy was posting about?

tinyurl.com/yboqukcc (sorry for the tinyurl, this stupid forum won't let me post links even though I've had an account for over 4 years...)

Do note this guy was talking about the 2nd gen. I don't honestly know if the 3rd gens have the second switch or not and I'm too lazy to go outside and look. ;)

While he was completely misinformed about what the switch was doing, the last few comments indicate the clutch fetches up much more abruptly without it.
 

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I removed what looked to be a CDV by replacing all OEM components from the clutch master cylinder all the way to the slave cylinder. See my thread here.

Post #7 contains an image of what I believe is the CDV, which is essentially just a tiny orifice that slows the speed of the fluid flowing through it. You might be able to take that piece out with a good pick, but if it is sonic welded or friction welded inside the cylinder, there is no way to pull it without breaking something. Another option might be to drill a larger hole, just be sure to remove all shavings or debris from drilling. Modify at your own risk. Be sure to have a spare master cylinder handy in case something goes wrong.

Side note, I have been driving with the full aftermarket hydraulic retrofit for some time now and everything still feels tip top. The shorter, more positive pedal pressure feels great on the track and everyday driving. The clutch still doesn't grab as hard as I would like, but that is just the OEM clutch. Built for comfort and ease of driving, not for performance.
 
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