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Discussion Starter #1
I've got a 2013 i T. Currently, as soon as I push the OFF button (keyless ignition), everything shuts off.

Instead, I'd like it so that it shuts off the engine, but the radio stays on until a door is opened. I believe the windows do something similar:

Engine-off power window operation The power window can be operated for about 45 seconds after the ignition is switched from ON to ACC or OFF with all doors closed. If any door is opened, the power window will be inoperable.
Maybe there's a way to rewire the radio?

Code:
Note: I'm aware of that you can hold the button on the shift knob and press OFF to leave the radio on. I just want it to also shut off automatically once a door is opened. Plus, it's kind of awkward to hold that and press OFF
 

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Demon Spawn
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that's reaching the stupid crap gm and ford do, lets leave all the juice sapping electrics on while they sit so it kills the battery, like my friends buick and my dads old f150 the power ports stay on all the time so better not leave something plugged in for a long time with car off or you get a dead battery! and my friends buick the radio, windows etc will all function without the key for awhile until a door is opened, so don't fall asleep as we tried it did not turn off after 20 minutes
 

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Gearhead
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A different persepctive. Been running GM (a new Corvette one per generation for the last 18 years), which has that "crap" system, and never once had a battery issue
prior to my standard of always replacing my at five years to avoid winter "surprises." I like the radio-on-choice (mine) and the windows-up-and-downchoice (mine)
without the need to use the starter to re-start the car/waste fuel whenever I decide to during this time, to roll up or down the windows, etc., during that time.

Hopefully a forum member can help you, me and other forum members who share this "want."
 

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A different persepctive. Been running GM "crap" (a new Corvette one per generation for the last 18 years), and never once had a battery issue
prior to my standard of always replacing my at five years to avoid winter "surprises." I like the radio-on-choice (mine) and the windows-up-and-down
choice (mine) without the need to use the starter to re-start the car/waste fuel whenever I decide to during this time, to roll up or down the windows, etc., during that
Minutes.

Hopefully a forum member can help you, me and other forum members who share this "want."
I too wish there was retained accessory power. But as a worst case scenario you do not have to fully start the car to roll a window up/down if you've turned it off and forgot about a window. Just put the car in "on" mode - push the start button twice when the car is off, or once if it's in accessory power mode (with your foot off the brake) and you will be able to move your window without starting the car. Electrically the car is turned on without the engine running. Push the button again and the car is shut down.

Not ideal no, but you don't need to start the car for 20 seconds to move a window.
 

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Demon Spawn
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758 Posts
A different persepctive. Been running GM (a new Corvette one per generation for the last 18 years), which has that "crap" system, and never once had a battery issue
prior to my standard of always replacing my at five years to avoid winter "surprises." I like the radio-on-choice (mine) and the windows-up-and-downchoice (mine)
without the need to use the starter to re-start the car/waste fuel whenever I decide to during this time, to roll up or down the windows, etc., during that time.

Hopefully a forum member can help you, me and other forum members who share this "want."
I too wish there was retained accessory power. But as a worst case scenario you do not have to fully start the car to roll a window up/down if you've turned it off and forgot about a window. Just put the car in "on" mode - push the start button twice when the car is off, or once if it's in accessory power mode (with your foot off the brake) and you will be able to move your window without starting the car. Electrically the car is turned on without the engine running. Push the button again and the car is shut down.

Not ideal no, but you don't need to start the car for 20 seconds to move a window.
Road Trip, I have never had, nor seen a car which one had to physically start the motor in order to have cigarette lighter/power port function, radio or window functions I am talking about it being stupid to keep all that active without a key present as this introduces the chance for more problems. Just because you have not had a battery die due to this doesn't mean it does not happen. forget your laptop is plugged into the inverter? dead battery. forget your phone is charging over night in the car? dead battery. it can happen! this also means that there is a circuit open and if a short is introduced it can drain the battery. more electrics active while power is off more amperage draw more strain on the battery. whats so hard about putting the car in acc or on mode without starting it to listen to the radio or roll up a window, even charging a phone, it keeps you from forgetting things like that. the 2011 GT trim as mine is will let the windows up or down for about a minute after the car is off. I could see it being mildly useful for some but more of a headache for others and the car maker as they have to keep that circuit active while the car is off without draining your battery too much, maybe keep them active but on a timer, say 30 minutes or a hour after key is off.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
maybe keep them active but on a timer, say 30 minutes or a hour after key is off.
That's basically what I'm looking for. Really, I just want it on until the door opens like 5 seconds after I shut the engine off. Maybe have a 5 minute maximum. Not a big difference, I know, but I'm looking for small quality of life improvements.
 

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Demon Spawn
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That's basically what I'm looking for. Really, I just want it on until the door opens like 5 seconds after I shut the engine off. Maybe have a 5 minute maximum. Not a big difference, I know, but I'm looking for small quality of life improvements.
I would say you could probably splice into the window circuit and fuse your connection with a slightly larger fuse say if it were a 10amp already go to 15 since your adding power to the circuit. or splice the radio harness constant power line (should be red or yellow wire never can remember) and run a direct line to the battery with it. make sure to add a fuse to it 10 amp should do for factory radios. then all you would need is to find a way to disconnect it with a timer or lights/door and that would require additional wiring or more splicing. a car stereo shop may have some better insight into this, as I am sure there is a fairly easy way around it that has probably been done before somewhere aftermarket. or maybe go to a gm dealer and ask for a diagram of the 03 buick park avenue ultra radio wiring and see how the circuit for powering it is wired in, as that is what my friend has and his radio is on until a door opens when he takes the key out, looking at that wiring diagram may lead you to a way to wire yours up easy.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I would say you could probably splice into the window circuit and fuse your connection with a slightly larger fuse say if it were a 10amp already go to 15 since your adding power to the circuit. or splice the radio harness constant power line (should be red or yellow wire never can remember) and run a direct line to the battery with it. make sure to add a fuse to it 10 amp should do for factory radios. then all you would need is to find a way to disconnect it with a timer or lights/door and that would require additional wiring or more splicing. a car stereo shop may have some better insight into this, as I am sure there is a fairly easy way around it that has probably been done before somewhere aftermarket. or maybe go to a gm dealer and ask for a diagram of the 03 buick park avenue ultra radio wiring and see how the circuit for powering it is wired in, as that is what my friend has and his radio is on until a door opens when he takes the key out, looking at that wiring diagram may lead you to a way to wire yours up easy.

Yes, this is more like what I'm looking for. Unfortunately, I'm pretty out of my element here, so I'm hoping that somebody has already done this and can help walk me through a little more step by step.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Looks like somebody has tried this before and figured out a general way to do it. Any chance some of you know how to interpret this? I'm pretty electrically illiterate.

the12volt. com/ relays/ page5. asp#drto (remove the spaces)
 

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Demon Spawn
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if your just trying to do the top diagram on your link that's fairly simple auto parts stores sell relays like that its a basic 5 pole relay the relays use those numbers in the diagrams on the poles and you just follow the diagram.

what that diagram looks like is power coming in from the battery (to the fuse/relay box) on the bottom of the diagram and splits out to both relays to provide the 12 volt input from the electrical system. make sure you hook to those numbered poles on each relay as that's the way the relay "jumps" power and wont work right if you just do it on any old pole. then 86 and 87 on the left relay tie together to the radio power wire I mentioned earlier. then the pole 85 connecting from left to right to 87a on right is how you get the door to turn off the radio, when the right relay trips off when you open the door it kills the power to the other relay. 30 on the right relay is your circuits ground wire, chassis ground is best. and 85 on the right relay is tied into the door open circuit (that is where I get lost as I would not know exactly where to tell you to tie that in) however the top diagram is for a negative door trigger so it would need to just break the grounding on the door trigger pole and you would be good so you would just need to get the wire somewhere where it would have a good ground that wont come loose while your door is shut and lose that ground when door is open, that may require door cutting or paint scuffing, just be aware.

the positive door trigger looks more in depth and requires more stuff to be wired in, so a negative trigger maybe your ideal solution
the12volt.com (that site in your link) is a great car audio/customization resource I have used a lot, and may have even more to help you do that than just the diagram

but honestly a car that you care about is not the place to learn electrical stuff, I would maybe print that diagram off and take it to a car audio or customization shop and see if they could wire it up for you, if you do not think you have the know how to do it. cutting factory wires and re wiring things can get tricky and running new circuits definitely can, so I would maybe swing that diagram by a shop and ask them if they could at minimum, show you on your car, what to cut, where to cut and what kind of fuses and wires to use. learning electrical is fun but can be dangerous for you and the car near and long term so be very careful when doing things.
 

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Demon Spawn
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you may also consider this:https://www.summitracing.com/parts/dak-pac-1300/media/instructions
or: https://www.ronfrancis.com/prodinfo.asp?number=KA-23
this is a Nissan titan forum but similar to what you want: Quick way to add retained accessory power to your radio. - Nissan Titan Forum

this gives a little more insight and maybe adds some details and confusion but its chevys RAP diagram thanks to autozone.com: http://www.autozone.com/repairguide...ned-Accessory-Power-2000/_/P-0996b43f8025ee24
 
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