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Hi guys! Just dealt with an evap problem on my 2011 Mazda 3 2.0 engine with engine code F and I wanted to share.

First off for those of you who don’t know, the engine code relates to the emissions system the vehicle has.

F = 2.0 non-Skyactiv, standard emissions
G = 2.0 non-Skyactiv, low emissions

7 = 2.0 Skyactiv, standard emissions
8 = 2.0 Skyactiv, low emissions

5 = 2.5 standard emissions
6 = 2.5 low emissions

3 = 2.3 Mazdaspeed turbo, standardemissions
4 = 2.3 Mazdaspeed turbo, low emissions

The DTC P0442 & or P0455 can relate to all of the above.

My Mazda3 had a DTC set for P0442 which is evap leak detected (small). We reset the light and the code returns every time within 100-200km.

This can be related to a number of things on the EVAP system. However if you inspect your hoses and clamps, and they are all fine, and your gas cap fits tight (check gas cap light not illuminated) and you DO NOT smell fuel vapour. This thread might help you.

The problem lies with the EVAP vent solenoid, in the rear of the vehicle near the EVAP canister. See photo below.

The evap vent solenoid can fail in one of two ways. It can fail or stick closed, causing the DTC P0442 - Small leak detected. Or it can fail/stick open causing P0455 - Large leak detected.

In both instances you may not notice drivability issues, however you may seldom get a long cranking condition where the engine takes longer to start.

The vent solenoid is controlled by a 12 volt power supply. The first thing to do, is remove the vent solenoid, and verify you have power supply to the solenoid with a multi meter.

Next try and blow through the solenoid, one of three things will happen;

1) If a lot of air passes through the solenoid - replace it (The solenoid is stuck open and should be throwing code P0455 Large leak)

2) If a small amount or air passes through - replace it (The solenoid is closed as it is supposed to be but isn’t sealing properly & should be throwing code P0442)

3) No air passes through the solenoid - see instructions below. (Evap solenoid is closed and sealed properly)

If you experience #3 the next step is to test the solenoid operation.

Attach a 12 volt lead and a ground from the battery to the two connections on the solenoid. 1 of 2 things will happen.

1) Solenoid does not open or respond to 12 volt power input. - Replace the solenoid.

2) Solenoid opens.

If the solenoid opens, disconnect and reconnect the power supply a few times (to open and close the solenoid) each time it opens and closes verify it seals by blowing into it. No air should pass.

1) If sometimes the solenoid seals and sometimes it does not, then the solenoid needs to be replaced as you have an intermittent issue with it.

2) If the solenoid seals each and every time, it is working correctly and does not need to be replaced. Your issue will lay somewhere else within the system, and could be a broken/deteriorated hose, evap canister, etc.

This part in Canada is approx $100-$120.

It is a relatively easy fix for the average person.

Hopefully this thread can help someone diagnose their EVAP engine light related issue, and save them from throwing parts at their car helplessly!

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