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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Can someone who has done the tune clarify something for me. I have read the instructions on how to do the logging with mazdaedit...but it just seems to talk about how to work with the software. It doesn't seem to tell you how to do the actual run.

I've been reading around between the forums and it is still unclear. I'll probably reach out to OV but the turn around is a little slow so I thought I'd start here.

So I have an auto and am going to try and "Dual tune" for normal vs "sport/manual" mode.

Q1: I'm assuming the idea is to start at a low RPM, stomp on the gas and run it to redline? How many times do I do this? Is once enough?

Q2: since I'm dual tuning...do I do the logging for each mode? So for example, if Q1s answer is to do 2 runs for an average, does that mean I really need to do it 4 times?

Q3: I read one person state OV recommends 3rd gear (not sure where they found that) but seems like man do it in 2nd. Which is correct?

Q4: for my normal Eco mode, I really want to shoot for the best MPG around the 75mph..so do I need to do some logging at that speed "just crusing"?

Thanks for any thing you can help answer.
 

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Can someone who has done the tune clarify something for me. I have read the instructions on how to do the logging with mazdaedit...but it just seems to talk about how to work with the software. It doesn't seem to tell you how to do the actual run.

I've been reading around between the forums and it is still unclear. I'll probably reach out to OV but the turn around is a little slow so I thought I'd start here.

So I have an auto and am going to try and "Dual tune" for normal vs "sport/manual" mode.

Q1: I'm assuming the idea is to start at a low RPM, stomp on the gas and run it to redline? How many times do I do this? Is once enough?

Q2: since I'm dual tuning...do I do the logging for each mode? So for example, if Q1s answer is to do 2 runs for an average, does that mean I really need to do it 4 times?

Q3: I read one person state OV recommends 3rd gear (not sure where they found that) but seems like man do it in 2nd. Which is correct?

Q4: for my normal Eco mode, I really want to shoot for the best MPG around the 75mph..so do I need to do some logging at that speed "just crusing"?

Thanks for any thing you can help answer.
Q1: Between 1500-2k all the way up to redline. I did mine in manual mode, make sure you utilize the kickdown switch so it goes full open (there is a difference). You'll have to time it so it doesn't kick to the lower gear. The runs are set for 3-5M Idle (Warm) ~5 miles of in town/usual driving and 2 WOT Runs.

Q2: Not sure, I don't have sport so maybe someone else can answer / OVT.

Q3: I tried it in second in manual mode and its probably enough but doing it in third you get a much cleaner pull, make sure you have a place you can wind up around 85+mph. Second will only get you to 60-65 and it happens quick. As you can imagine a longer more smooth run could help identify data that could help.

Q4: They will probably have enough just from your regular driving file but may ask you to do some extra, can't confirm.

For your WOT make sure it is as flat as possible, this can make a huge difference on even what seems like an inconsequential incline or dip. Especially helps if you are going to use software like vdyno to kind of see where you are at hp/tq wise. I thought I had a flat stretch then couldn't figure out why the numbers were so weird, moved to a flat section of road (yay florida) and my runs were much more consistent.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the info. You mentioned kickdown. Just did some quick googling and sounds like they are just talking about normal downshifting correct? I'm reading about all this pedal positioning stuff, but if they're just trying to avoid the car downshifting that's easy to not do.
 

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You've got an automatic correct? You have a switch that will drops 1-2 gear instantly, basically an oh shit button that gives you full power. OV Told me to utilize that in the WOT runs as it opens the throttle more fully than just before depressing the switch. The tricky part is when you are doing a 90mph run in second or third you have to hit it a a certain time so it won't drop gears usually around peak power range where the switch would put you anyway.

To find that point (while driving) mash the button and see what RPM range it puts you at. After you figure this out start at 1500rpm rolling, push the pedal right on top of the switch and then depress the switch somewhere in that RPM range where it won't kickdown but still go full throttle and hold it until you max out the gear. Apparently it makes a difference according to the tuner. You can do reliable logs without it but for best results might as well do it 'right' and it is much easier to do in third than second.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Ok..So maybe I'm extra dense today. So my plan was to put my automatic in manual mode, 3rd gear and at about 1,500 rpm, floor it 100% to red line.

From me playing around, I do not believe the transmission did any shifting and I stayed in 3rd the whole time.

So am I good or is there something else I need to do for this kickdown thing?
 

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Ok..So maybe I'm extra dense today. So my plan was to put my automatic in manual mode, 3rd gear and at about 1,500 rpm, floor it 100% to red line.

From me playing around, I do not believe the transmission did any shifting and I stayed in 3rd the whole time.

So am I good or is there something else I need to do for this kickdown thing?
When its pushed all the way down, push it a little further. It should feel like a button well because it is once it's pushed. Do it in auto while cruising (Sport/Non doesn't matter) just make sure you have room :grin2: You can also do it in manual but I would suggest doing it after 4th + because you'll end up having to shift almost immediately depending on your speed.

Better explanation. Just dont be scared to mash it, its useful and fun.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Wow ...totally learned something. I always thought that was pushing the pedal past its "natural stop" so would not do it thinking I would break something.

In my head I always envisioned the old cables where once they reach their stop and you could give him a little bit more and they would almost start to flex off the pully.

So sounds like I want my log pulls to be in this special mode for as much as it can be ( without the transmission shifting of course)?

I would almost think it would be the opposite because it sounds like that swhich activates the existing balls to the wall mode... where we are using the tune to get that same feeling throughout the rest of the throttle range.

Anyway, thanks for the enlightenment...turns out that wasn't just give in my floorboard after all
 

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So sounds like I want my log pulls to be in this special mode for as much as it can be ( without the transmission shifting of course)?
Yep, there is a way to time it, usually if it's already at a high RPM it won't kickdown (3500+?) so start out like you have been and time it in the range. Results may vary especially since I don't have sport mode to test it on so just play with it.
On the highway it's an instant drop from 6th to 4th usually, much more responsive than trying to do it in manual and it puts you right in your effective torque range for some punch.

Good luck with the discovery of the instant fun switch.
 
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