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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
( Updated 24/2/18 ) Current Progress: Stock--->Base File--->1st Tune File--->2nd Tune File--->3rd Tune File--->4th Tune File--->5th Tune File--->6th Tune File--->7th Tune File--->8th Tune File (Waiting for OV's reply if tune is complete)


Hi guys,

I decided that I would like to share with you my future / ongoing experience, expectations and results from the tune that OV will start performing soon on my car.

*Disclaimer: By any means I will not post or backlash OV Tune with negative feedback in regards on how much time he takes to reply to customers or etc... This thread is meant for pure results and information about the tune itself only, and to be used as reference point for those who are interested in performing such a tune in the future.

*You are more than welcome to share your ideas and opinions are long as they are relevant to this post. I'm also honest about myself and I'm aware that I don't know everything about cars, I'm learning so please if you see that I have made a mistake or wrong argument please let me know.

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My current set-up (Dolores)



Mazda 3 Japan Made 2.0L 165HP, appox 135WHP running on 95 RON equivalent to 91 Octane in US I suppose. As per the official documentation here in Israel, the car goes from 0-100Km in 9.0 seconds. Haven had the time to check but I will check it before starting the tune. I'm trying to check the option to Dyno my car to see before and after results hopefully I can do it this upcoming week.

Bolts On:

*Borla Axle-Back Exhaust
*Eibach Lowering Springs
*OZ Leggera HLT Light Wheels
*DBA Front Slotted Disc Rotors
*OEM Air Filter ---> *Changed to K&N Panel Oiled Panel Filter on 24/12/17

My bolts-on have granted my car slight weight reduction and better drivability in terms of cornering, braking and suspension.
Now the tune will be performed in order to have increased HP of course,better torque availability on low gears and better drivability. I want my car to be faster to sum things up, and with the reputation OV Tune has , I'm pretty sure I will be able to reach 180-190HP and Approx. 160-170WHP. (Hopefully) . I respect people who have installed a SRI on their cars but IMO and in real world usage and from everything that I read in this forum, the stock part works perfectly.

Finally I'll be switching from 95 RON to 98 RON (Equivalent to 93 Octane in the US I suppose), so take into consideration this tune and results will be with 98 RON.

*Curious note, the elevation in Tel Aviv is 5m and the Altitude is 21m/67ft , so I'm expecting for this to have a positive feedback on the tune :)

*I will definitely dyno my car after the tune is over in order to get accurate and exact HP numbers about the results of this tune!
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*Important: I'm using a MacBook Pro (Early 2015) with Parallels 12 running Windows 7 and everything is working beautiful, no problems. at all.

Time for the logging:

3/11/17

Got my Mazda Edit Software completely set-up. Went to my car, found the OBD port (In my car is a little bit loose, not completely fixed, perhaps it was meant to be this way). Connected the Tactrix device and USB cable, follow the instructions on how to get the stock ECU file and this was sent to OV Tune by email. (They redesigned their website, so the options to upload these files is not available). Waiting for my base file to start Data Logging.

4/11/17

Started up my car today, engine check light was ON, solved this problem by connecting the Tactrix device and performing and ECU Read again, the engine light was gone, but I noted that the average fuel consumption and speed average were reset. My conclusion is that yesterday needed to properly exit Mazda Edit after an ECU read and then shut off the car, and then disconnect Tactrix Device. Or perhaps the ECU recognizes "new" reading on the system and it needs to re-write information? Not sure if somebody can clarify this it would be helpful.

5/11/17

Checked the 0-100km time today, I'm not a professional driver or can launch my car perfectly FYI, so I turned the DSC off and put hard foot on the brake, released and "floored" the gas, as per the chronograph in my watch, with a passenger and half tank I was able to pull out approx. 9 seconds runs 3 times. So, what Mazda claim here seems to be very true.

The following thoughts are assumptions since I don't have proper tools such as special electronic equipment to measure 0-100 times. There are many factors to consider to set proper 0-100km times but I believe that when properly lunching the car and with the right conditions the time needs to be under 9 seconds time (but not under 8 definitely). I was surprised to see that neither the lighter wheels, exhaust or everything else added to the car added something in terms of performance to improve the 0-100km times, I might be wrong but definitely ricer... :rice 1: >:) (I faced the truth today, this is not a fast car, and truth hurts :crying2:, but I still love my Mazda)

17/11/17

Did not have the chance to dyno my car since I didn't have time to do it.
So this week, I got my base tune file, filled my gas tank with 98 RON, flashed the base tune , and drove around (No problems at all, besides the AFS OFF amber lights, but it goes away). Thanks to some members I was able to figure out properly how to do the WOT runs and I did my best to make the WOT's as solid as I could.

For the V-Dyno custom car settings, the official weight of my car is listed as 1399kg, including all the weight reduction this is approx. 1374kg or 3030pounds. The gear ratio as per the official information here is: 1st 3.5552, 2nd 2.022,3rd 1.452, 4th 1.000, 5th 0.708, 6th 0.599, Final Gear Ratio 3.812. I weight around 72kg or 160pounds. (The weights are an approximation but there are most definitely the most accurate)

These are the stats from the base tune file to compare with future charts and comparing purposes.



So these are the numbers, approx. 135WHP, these are an approximation of course, but I'm glad to see that these stats are closed to what Mat expected regarding my 165hp engine. Now, I'm waiting for Mat to give me my first tune and flash it! Can't wait! :)

21/11/17

*For all means and purposes as a point of reference to this thread and being aware that this is supposed to be the second tune file after the base file, I'll be referring to this file as the first tune file.
So for reference: Stock--->Base--->1st Tune File

So, I received today my *1st tune file from Mat, tried to flash it twice, but had some errors in the middle as it didn't let me flash it properly, afterwards the car would not turn ON. But as per the instructions on the guide I turned the car off, disconnected the Tactrix device , plugged it to the computer and tried to flash again, it worked perfectly. I think in cases like these it is better to do things slowly, wait a couple of seconds for the computer to boot up properly or for the device to be synced properly. After the flash the AFS amber light appeared again but this is a common issue which is fine. Another common issue is the DTC errors codes at the end of the flash, when the tune is trying to clear these codes, as per Mat this is common and normal so nothing to worry about as long as your car turns ON after every flash.This is what I'm referring too:



Now in regards to the 1st tune I just flashed, the car is starting to feel slightly different, not an extreme makeover yet, but I do agree it feels great. In this flash I can actually start feeling more aggressive pulls in lower gears, such as 1st and 2nd gear, acceleration feels faster, but I'll need to drive more to feel the changes. We had some light rain during the evening, and it was fun to see how every time I would press hard the gas pedal the DSC would get engaged :) . Once I have between 30-50km on this tune I'll do the data loggings and let the numbers speak for themselves. Hopefully I'll start seeing some great numbers Fingers Crossed!

I contacted Mat as well since @skyactiver mentioned that the base file provides improvements over the stock file, as per Mat's words "each tune is slightly adjusted up from the previous until we finalize it", therefore most probably the base file shows some power gains of what the stock file would produce, and still no way to know if there were gains since I never checked WOT's on stock file...From this point onwards I just want to see numbers getting higher and higher :)

This is all for now, I'll shall keep you posted! :)

22/11/17 (Here is the 22nd already lol)

Temperature tonight on my runs was 19-20 degrees celsius, with winds of about 31km/h.

Now let the numbers speak for themselves!!!



7-8whp increase when comparing to the previous tune (base tune file), and this is the first tune file only! Impressive!!!

One thing I don't understand is why on the first WOT1 run it doesn't show the rpm line starting from low range since I started on very low rpm my pull, if somebody minds explaining I'll appreciate :)

As per what @skyactiver recommended, I started my pull on very low rpm by slowly / gently pressing the gas pedal until reaching redline, this is the correct way to do it indeed! Thanks for your tips!

Sent info to Mat and waiting now for second tune file! :). This is the way to go, expecting better numbers as this tune goes on! :)

24/11/17

Pull some new WOT's from the 1st tune file , this info can be found here in post # 21 http://mazda3revolution.com/forums/...on-mazda-3-2016-2-0l-165hp-3.html#post2191922

Received 2nd tune file from Mat today! Flashed it! Still the same DTC errors which is normal and the AFS OFF amber light after the flash, can't wait to start driving on this new file :)

25-26/11/17

After driving over 60km with the 2nd tune file,I did not feel any major changes or slight increase on performance on the car. I sent Mat the updated WOT's that I re-did on the first tune file and hopefully he used those on this new tune file.

So, here are the WOT runs from tonight, weather was 15-19 degrees celsius, wind speed about 5-10 km/h, same road and conditions.



Sometimes we win and sometimes we loose...As per the V-dyno and also by the driving experience this last tune felt like a downgrade from the previous, as there were no noticeable power gains whatsoever.

Sent Mat the data logs and I'll just have to wait for the next tune file...Mat states that this build can reach approx. 170whp, and hopefully he is right. But after seeing the above stats I'm starting to feel a little bit worried that there might not be enough potential to reach these numbers, as I thought that every tune was an upgrade from the previous. So this makes me wonder, why there were no power gains on this one...?

26/11/17

Mat, sent me the 3rd tune file today. He states that on the previous tune file there was a bit of knock retard on the last logs, which have been adjusted into the new file.

Flashed the new tune file recently (The usual AFS OFF amber light and DTC errors), and the car feels like indeed an upgrade from the 1st tune file, 1st gear is pulling hard! Shall do my 30-50km driving before I do some WOT's. Have a great week!

28/11/17

WOT results for 3rd tune file, weather was approx. 17 degrees celsius, wind speed of approx.10 km/h, same road, semi wet.



Situation is not improving at all, this is the point where I'm starting to become very skeptical and disappointed, since at least on 1st gear and 2nd the car feels good, on 3rd it feels weak AF....I'm aware this is V-Dyno, and real results can only be obtained on a real Dyno but I'm not happy at with the current situation, the V-Dyno should give an approximate...I would really like to really understand where are the limitations on my set-up and why there isn't further power gain?

1/12/17

Read Post # 31 http://mazda3revolution.com/forums/...on-mazda-3-2016-2-0l-165hp-4.html#post2197898

To summarize, because of my own mistake, I have not been doing and sending the most optimal WOT runs to OV, therefore V-Dyno data is not completely accurate...

5/1/12

Post # 33 http://mazda3revolution.com/forums/...on-mazda-3-2016-2-0l-165hp-4.html#post2200458

I did a "re-do" of the WOT runs and finally discovered the right way to enable the kickdown switch on them. Waiting for the next file, and really hoping to see improvements from here...

10/12/17

Last week I received my 4th tune file, flashed it, and let the ECU adapt to the parameters of the tune. As agreed with Mat, I started sending him WOT runs in 2nd gear, 3rd gear and Full accelaration logs.

Here is the V-dyno graph, comparing the performance gains from the base file, 1st tune file (the one that yielded the best performance results so far) and 4th tune file (current one) :



I'm glad to see improvements since the last 2 tune files were terrible due to knock retard and me failing to send the most optimal information. Also since the base file and 1st tune file did not have kick down switch activated perhaps this is not the most accurate comparison.

Now, I'm waiting for the 5th tune file , 2-3 files left until the tune is over as per Mat.

My goal right now is to reach 185hp at the crank and approx 150-155whp (2.5liter performance). If the tune is able to provide these performance gains it will be totally worth it!

15/11/12

Flashed 5th Tune file today! :)

As per Mat the logs that I sent for the 4th tune file look so much better, and now there won't be a delay in full throttle enrichment ( I should see this difference as well when I put it in VDyno, and check the AFR).

19/12/12

Did my WOT runs yesterday, weather was 18c, wind 3km/h, 3rd gear pulls were done on the same road I've been using.

*Found a new place which is flatter and not so uphill to do my 2nd gear WOT data logs for Mat, here are the results:

WOT 2nd Gear


WOT 3rd Gear


Now results for 2nd gear are indeed impressive, 3rd gear are less far impressive, the reason might be that when pulling 3rd gear logs the engine was running hot already and the intake temperature was approx. at 26-25c since I was failing to capture the proper information and I was re-doing and trying repeatedly, so this might have dampened performance.

Nonetheless, 1-2 logs to go and the tune is finished, hoping to see if I'll be able to make 2.5L numbers here, most likely around 180-185hp.

Waiting for the next file!

26/12/17

So I changed the stock panel air filter with an K&N Panel Oiled Filter, added coolant in the reservoir until "Full" bar level, filled full gas tank of 98 RON and even added full windshield fluids to my reservoir. I pulled new WOT runs on the flattest road possible, results on post # 48 http://mazda3revolution.com/forums/...on-mazda-3-2016-2-0l-165hp-5.html#post2215401

3/1/18

Mat is back! Provided me with the 6th tune file and flashed it today. I can feel overall better pulls / more torque from lower rpm range, loving the driving experience as of late, the previous tune file has been the best so far and I hope this one is even better.

I'm nearing the end of this tuning process (1 more file probably) and soon we shall do a real Dyno run! I'll keep you posted!

7/1/18

I sent today my data logs to Mat for the current file. Here are the results for the WOT's, weather was clear and relatively cold with temperatures of approx. 10-15 degrees celsius, with wind speeds of 5km/h:

WOT 2nd Gear



WOT 3rd Gear



Mazda Edit V-Dyno 3rd Gear



Overall the car feels sharp, throttle response is good, and I think this is pretty much the limit to where this engine can get. Now I'm waiting for Mat's feedback, I'll keep you posted.

4/02/18

I receive my 7th tune file last week with 25% throttle response from OV, just AMAZING! Did not have time to do the data logs until today, I went to my usual spots, outside temperature was between 12 and 15 degrees celsius, wind speed at about 5-8km/h, I'm quiet happy with these results:

WOT Runs 2nd Gear


WOT Runs 3rd Gear


MazdaEdit Dyno 3rd Gear 1


MazdaEdit Dyno 3rd Gear 2


Overall on this file the car feels snappier, definitely more "aggressive", torque is there when called upon at the press of the gas pedal, it just great to overtake slow cars in the highway, a completely renewed driving experience, the throttle response update it such a huge improvement. It has been a bumpy and long road, but it has been worth it! :)

*A thought I would like to share about the tune to others members:

At the end of the day measurements such as 0-100km or how much HP the car is making are important but they should not be the main focus of the entire tune process. People become so obsessed chasing these numbers (myself included), that we tend to forget that was really matters is the new and enhanced "drivability" , better torque throughout the rpm range, all of these factors is what really matters, that smile on your face because you feel the difference. Numbers are numbers and we might as well be chasing them all day long, but what really matters IMHO is the enhanced experience of the car, something that without the tune it would not be possible.

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For next tune file I have requested from Mat to update the throttle response to 30%. :) I'll keep you posted!

6/2/18

Received my 8th tune file and it looks like this is it! I got the throttle response updated from 25% to 30%! Very subtle upgrade and I love it! I'll be back with WOT runs comparing this file with the stock ECU file! :)

24/2/18

So it's been a while, I've been driving with the 30% throttle response with what is most likley the last tune file and I love it. 25% to 30% increase is a difference which is barely noticeable, but nonetheless is there, very happy with it.

Mat advise me to do only WOT runs so he can check if "ignition" on the datalogs and tune file is ok and afterwards he will advise if the tune is complete or not.

Here are the final WOT runs (Only in 3rd Gear), temperature 13 degrees celsius, very cool night, wind speed about 3km/h, flat road:

V-Dyno


MazdaEdit 1


MazdaEdit 2



Waiting for OV's reply regarding these data logs and shall update once I receive a reply, it has been a long journey but it has been worth it!

*For those interested about this tune: DO NOT expect that your car will become a Golf GTI or anything similar in terms of performance, the tune is there to make your "Ecobox" far more enjoyable, I'm never going back to stock, worth the investment, simple as that :)
 

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Yep, keep going :thumbup1 1:. I'm also waiting on the base tune to arrive from BBRGti from the UK.:wink2:
 

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Keep in mind that the base tune file from OVT has been known to have some tune enhancements compared to the stock tune. If you want a true baseline, flash back to your stock file...
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Keep in mind that the base tune file from OVT has been known to have some tune enhancements compared to the stock tune. If you want a true baseline, flash back to your stock file...
Well noted and I think you are right! But the base tune file IMO is more or less the same as the stock file. I don't think there are many incremental enhancements, the sure way to know if this is true would be to flash to stock, do WOT's and then to do some comparisons...but I'm too lazy to do that now lol >:) . Also, it might be too late to know now, since on stock file I would need to put 95 RON too, but I might be wrong since even on stock file the engine would not benefit from the 98 RON.

From my point of view in this ongoing "tuning" experience, I'm treating the base tune file as the the "stock" file since whp matches approx. what I was expecting from my 165hp engine. Perhaps the base tune added some minimal benefits, but that would mean that the stock file would have done worse? or perhaps better? Not sure way to know.

From this point forward I'm hoping to see positive increments after every flash. In terms of "feeling" the car on base tune file feels pretty much the same as stock...despite the fact to have added 98 RON, but once again to prove if this is true I would need to flash to the stock file and pull some WOT's.
 

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Well noted and I think you are right! But the base tune file IMO is more or less the same as the stock file. I don't think there are many incremental enhancements, the sure way to know if this is true would be to flash to stock, do WOT's and then to do some comparisons...but I'm too lazy to do that now lol >:) . Also, it might be too late to know now, since on stock file I would need to put 95 RON too, but I might be wrong since even on stock file the engine would not benefit from the 98 RON.

From my point of view in this ongoing "tuning" experience, I'm treating the base tune file as the the "stock" file since whp matches approx. what I was expecting from my 165hp engine. Perhaps the base tune added some minimal benefits, but that would mean that the stock file would have done worse? or perhaps better? Not sure way to know.

From this point forward I'm hoping to see positive increments after every flash. In terms of "feeling" the car on base tune file feels pretty much the same as stock...despite the fact to have added 98 RON, but once again to prove if this is true I would need to flash to the stock file and pull some WOT's.
Yeah, the improvements on the base file are small (some VVT adjustments from what I remember), and not work logging over. I just wanted to inform you since you are documenting all the differences. There are also some threads in this forum you may want to read prior to comparing Vdyno logs. Briefly, since power output greatly varies between temperature, and Vdynos will get offset by hills, try to make your log runs at the same temperature/ humidity (colder the better), and at the same location down a flat road in 3rd gear. This will allow you to see real changes of >10 whp on the Vdyno.

You can run higher octane gas (98 octane RON in your case) safely with the stock tune, but don't expect any performance improvements unless your local 95 RON gas is of poor quality, and not delivering what the stock tune calls for. Aftermarket skyactiv tunes usually get limited by the amount of octane you get tuned for. Just to give you an idea, with full bolt-ons (cat-back, GWR 4-2-1 long-tube header, optional intake), the skyactiv 2.0 has made >40 whp gains on a 3rd party dyno (140 stock to 181 whp tuned) running US >100 octane fuel (from straight E85) with OVT. When that same Miata ND ran US 93 octane pump gas, the gains were ~30 whp. So the more octane you can get, the better!
 
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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks @skyactiver ! Should I also do my logs with the same level of gas on the tank on every run? Also what kind of "smoothing" level should I choose in order to get more or less the most accurate approximation of whp?

I have done my first WOT at night when the weather was cold, and I have this flat straight road where I do my data logging ,weather temperature on the first run was about 20-25 degrees celcius.

I'll do my WOT tonight, on the same conditions more or less and I hope that I'll see better numbers on this one! :)
 

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Thanks @skyactiver ! Should I also do my logs with the same level of gas on the tank on every run? Also what kind of "smoothing" level should I choose in order to get more or less the most accurate approximation of whp?

I have done my first WOT at night when the weather was cold, and I have this flat straight road where I do my data logging ,weather temperature on the first run was about 20-25 degrees celcius.

I'll do my WOT tonight, on the same conditions more or less and I hope that I'll see better numbers on this one! :)
The effect of power loss/gain from differences in the tank shouldn't make a huge difference to the Vdyno curve; I wouldn't worry about that too much. That's good that you have logs under similar temperatures. Try to keep doing that, and maintain the same stretch of flat road during logging. Avoid rain and heavy winds. It also makes a bit of a difference as to where you put the pedal down. With a manual, you can start going WOT at 1500 rpm in 3rd gear, ensuring that the pedal is fully down a few 100 rpms later. You don't want to quickly floor it, as that may result in tip-in knock which then pulls timing (and power) throughout the rest of the run. If you have an automatic, there are other threads on how to avoid an immediate downshift with the kick down switch. I would use 3rd gear in manual mode. I try to start the WOT log at the same spot in the road... That way if you have a minor hill somewhere in between, it will show up on all logs at the same place, thereby controlling this condition between Vdynos. Oh, and if you have sport mode, make sure you turn it on during WOT logging.

You seem to have a good amount of smoothing with your virtual dyno program. A stock Mazda 3 puts down around 130-140 whp at 25oC, less when its hotter. Cat-back effect would be minor. What you are showing looks good :)
 
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You can run higher octane gas (98 octane RON in your case) safely with the stock tune, but don't expect any performance improvements unless your local 95 RON gas is of poor quality, and not delivering what the stock tune calls for. Aftermarket skyactiv tunes usually get limited by the amount of octane you get tuned for. Just to give you an idea, with full bolt-ons (cat-back, GWR 4-2-1 long-tube header, optional intake), the skyactiv 2.0 has made >40 whp gains on a 3rd party dyno (140 stock to 181 whp tuned) running US >100 octane fuel (from straight E85) with OVT. When that same Miata ND ran US 93 octane pump gas, the gains were ~30 whp. So the more octane you can get, the better!
Its a bit unfair to compare gains on the ND with the 3. Mazda uses a completely different header design for the ND. The SA header in the 3 isn't all that different from the GWR part, so a good part of the gains shown by the GWR 4-2-1 header you won't see in the 3. The ND is tuned a bit different than the 3 to compensate for its less efficient header design, The more efficient SA header in the 3 is partly why it can run 87 octane at 155 hp and the ND needs 91 for the same. Its also the reason why some have documented a nearly 40hp increase in the 2.0 cars with a tune, axle back exhaust and intake.
 

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Its a bit unfair to compare gains on the ND with the 3. Mazda uses a completely different header design for the ND. The SA header in the 3 isn't all that different from the GWR part, so a good part of the gains shown by the GWR 4-2-1 header you won't see in the 3. The ND is tuned a bit different than the 3 to compensate for its less efficient header design, The more efficient SA header in the 3 is partly why it can run 87 octane at 155 hp and the ND needs 91 for the same. Its also the reason why some have documented a nearly 40hp increase in the 2.0 cars with a tune, axle back exhaust and intake.
I think you missed the whole point of my response. It was mainly to state that the more octane you have, the more gains you get out of the skyactiv engine with tuning (to a limit of course). Yes, you won't get Miata ND GWR 4-2-1 LT header gains with the stock Mazda 3 4-2-1 LT header, but you will get more gains running E85 than you will 91 or 93 octane when the car is properly tuned and running similar bolt-ons. The stock Mazda 3 header is quite good, in that you get further gains as you keep raising octane levels and tune appropriately. This goes with your comment above that some individuals have gotten great gains with the stock header because its a solid design, and more octane enables this.

Also, we already discussed this prior, but you may have forgotten... The ND is not tuned different because of a less efficient header. The ND requires 91 octane because Mazda tuned mid-load VVT maps more aggressively to provide more throttle response for this track-oriented car (interview with Dave Coleman). They are tuned EXACTLY the same way top-end; I have all the maps to prove it if you want. So the Miata does not need premium to achieve 155 hp. Actually, even the 2012-13 Mazda 3 skyactiv 2.0 with a very poorly designed 4-1 restrictive header and 12:1 compression could make 155 hp on 87 octane. Its not hard to get this engine to make 155 hp...
 

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Updated the thread with V-Dyno results of the WOT's from the 1st tune file! Enjoy! :)
Nice gain after the first file :) I noticed that your WOT run now starts around 3500 rpm. When I mentioned earlier that you gradually go into the throttle, I really meant that for manuals, you start pushing the pedal around 1500 rpm, then completely floor it by around 1800-1900 rpm... You do want to go full pedal as early as possible, but not so rapidly that it triggers tip-in knock. Only at maximum throttle does the ECU trigger full AFR enrichment and give you max power. You want Mat to see full throttle conditions earlier so that he can adjust the settings there accordingly. In my Vdyno's, I usually see the curve showing full throttle from around 1800 rpm to redline. For autos, you'll have to ask around or test exactly when you can go 100% (trigger the kick down switch) in 3d gear manual mode without having it downshift. Its probably going to be somewhere between 2800-3500 rpm, but you start heavy in the throttle at 1500 rpm without hitting the switch, then press down further and hit it when it won't downshift (eg. 3300 rpm?). Perhaps others can give some advice on what works best for autos.
 
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@skyactiver, Well noted! What I'll do next time is to do the runs like my first WOT's, I'll start on low rpm, press the gas gently at about 1800-2000rpm and the completely floor the gas without activating the kick-down switch.

Since I misunderstood your information, what I did on these runs was to slowly press the gas and then build rpm until reaching redline...

Would you say that these logs that I sent to Mat are bad? Should I re-do the runs?

Thanks!
 

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@skyactiver, Well noted! What I'll do next time is to do the runs like my first WOT's, I'll start on low rpm, press the gas gently at about 1800-2000rpm and the completely floor the gas without activating the kick-down switch.

Since I misunderstood your information, what I did on these runs was to slowly press the gas and then build rpm until reaching redline...

Would you say that these logs that I sent to Mat are bad? Should I re-do the runs?

Thanks!
So you do want to hit the kick-down switch, but only when it won't cause a downshift from 3rd down to 2nd (as soon as possible without triggering the downshift)... Start in 3rd with manual mode at 1500 rpm, then go down gradually to the point where you are maximum before the switch at around 1800 rpm... Then after waiting, press down to hit the switch (maximum throttle) at the point where it won't downshift... You'll have to ask around or try experimenting yourself to find where that point is- it could be anywhere from 2800-3500. I've seen auto logs where the users got full throttle in 3rd a little after 3000 rpm, so that's why I'm guessing this.

If you sent him logs where you didn't hit max throttle until after 4000 or 5000 rpm, then the log will not give Mat an idea of how your car tolerates the WOT tune settings in the low and medium rpm range. You can see that your last Vdyno shows a lower low-end torque curve and late AFR enrichment, and that's likely because the throttle was not called upon until later. Its probably going to be fine after your first tune file, but make sure you send logs covering the low/mid range WOT later. You can also ask him whether he prefers a re-do for #1 .
 
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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
@skyactiver, Thanks once again! I sent an email to Mat asking if he wants me to do the WOT's again, I'm waiting for his answer.

Also, a litte tricky to do this with an automatic car lol , I'm thinking of doing 3-4 runs on the same spot from now on instead of 2 just to have better assurance that I'll get the data properly and save valuable time.
 

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Thanks, I sent an email to Mat asking if he wants me to do the WOT's again, I'm waiting for his answer.

Also, a litte tricky to do this with an automatic car lol , I'm thinking of doing 3-4 runs on the same spot from now on instead of 2 just to have better assurance that I'll get the data properly and save valuable time.
should have bought a stick ;)
 
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should have bought a stick ;)
Amen. :grin2:

But seriously, if the virtual dyno is to be trusted (and I noted you may be re-doing your WOT runs), the coolest thing is the bump in power before the peak. The largest difference between the curves is actually between 4k and 5k, not up near peak power at 6k. That midrange bump should really make a difference in how the car feels when accelerating, making for easier passing and increased grins.

Great thread! Keep the data coming.
 

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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
should have bought a stick ;)
In Israel they sell only automatic models of the car, no manuals except for the MX-5 :frown2:

Amen. :grin2:

But seriously, if the virtual dyno is to be trusted (and I noted you may be re-doing your WOT runs), the coolest thing is the bump in power before the peak. The largest difference between the curves is actually between 4k and 5k, not up near peak power at 6k. That midrange bump should really make a difference in how the car feels when accelerating, making for easier passing and increased grins.

Great thread! Keep the data coming.
Thanks! Virtual Dyno is only used as reference, I'll dyno my car after the tune is over to see the final results! :nerd:

For now the car feels more responsive, slighter pulls better and I'm only on the first tune file... :surprise:, so I'm hoping for more positive results until the tune is over... 0:)
 
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