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Throttle response calibrations are based pedal position sensors mostly. The sensors send a signal to the ECU to tell it how much throttle is required based on pedal position. You can intercept and alter that signal, so if you have the pedal at 20% you can change that percentage by increasing or decreasing the signal to reflect a different percentage.There are other things involved, cam position, timing etc also, but the basic recalibration is done by altering the pedal position signal. This pedal recalibration in no way increases power as claimed by the purveyors of the many magic box "throttle recalibration" kits. It just makes the car feel more powerful by opening the throttle more at any given pedal position. So yes, some of what you feel is just the throttle opening more and providing more power without pushing the pedal down as far.
I would think that the pedal sensor would need to be calibrated to have less increase in sensitivity as you get towards full throttle. Otherwise you would run out of throttle response once you hit 100% and there would be a dead spot at the end of the pedal travel. You also don't want the throttle too sensitive as you get towards the 100% pedal position. This will make it hard to modulate the throttle to prevent wheel spin. More sensitivity in the lower part of the pedal travel percentage range will help with driveability in normal daily driving though. So, you could start with say a 30% increase in response starting at 2% pedal position, continue the change throughout the range of motion and slowly decrease that 30% increase at 2% to near 0% increase at 100% of travel as you progress.
 

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Thanks for your explanation, Arathol. Yeah, I agree that purveyors of magic boxes may overstate what that equipment could do for you... and in no way actually increase power or torque, per se. I suspect though if an individual has a car with a weak bottom-end response, if you tailor the throttle to part-ways compensate where the car feels weak, well, that part-ways improves the drive quality.

The real answer is both to adjust the engine control parameters (tailored to the fuel you select and intend to use) to increase power / torque AND to play with the throttle sensitivity... doing a proper job of smoothly transitioning throttle sensitivity back down to the stock settting... at the proper point.

Final point / question: the "percentages" you and other speak of, as regards these Tunes... are you indeed ONLY referring to the "Starting-Point" throttle calibration value (i.e. the MOST sensitive % that the throttle gets re-tuned to...) realizing that the sensitivity gets progressively trimmed-down to zero; OR are you referring to some other parameter related to the tune?
 

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For me, it was part of the file name of the tune. I was just using it to differentiate between them, but I'm not sure what it represents.
CK
 
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The percentages are pretty much just that - percentages of signal sent to the ECU from the pedal sensor. Boost the signal by 30% and you get a corresponding change in throttle plate position, timing, injection pulse timing etc...At least thats how most throttle controllers work.
 

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It depends. What are your goals?

I asked Rafael to increase torque and HP as much as possible and to perform a throttle remapping. Increase rev limiter to 7k rpm. Increase max speed to 150 mph. Min idle to 750 rpm. 91 octane, because anything higher is hard to come by around here..

I was lucky, as Mat was able to review the final tune and put his stamp of approval on it. :)

I'm learning that too much throttle response may not be such a great thing. The max HP and torque on a log will look better, but you sacrifice some drivability in return. i.e. feathering throttle to avoid wheel spin and riding the clutch a bit more on gear shifts.
CK
Like you, I'd like to get as much torque and HP as possible while not dogging the engine out--I hope to be still driving it a decade+ from now. I'd like to also adjust the min idle to +750. I recently put on the RMM and TMM would like to decrease the NVH if possible (900 seems to do it).
 
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Like you, I'd like to get as much torque and HP as possible while not dogging the engine out--I hope to be still driving it a decade+ from now. I'd like to also adjust the min idle to +750. I recently put on the RMM and TMM would like to decrease the NVH if possible (900 seems to do it).
Cool. Explain all of that to him and you should be golden.

I asked him to set the min idle to 900 RPM too, but he did 750 RPM as a compromise, and it works well. I have the CS RMM and TMM installed too. They are great mods.
CK
 
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Like you, I'd like to get as much torque and HP as possible while not dogging the engine out--I hope to be still driving it a decade+ from now. I'd like to also adjust the min idle to +750. I recently put on the RMM and TMM would like to decrease the NVH if possible (900 seems to do it).
Maximum power and torque looks good on paper, but not its so much in the real world. You don't want to get caught up chasing numbers to get that maximum peak HP....There is a difference between usable power and peak power. What you want is the most possible power under the curve, ie a torque curve that goes up and stays nearly flat for as long as possible. For example, a motor that makes 75 f/lbs @ 2000 rpm then climbs slowly or unevenly, peaks at 200 ft / [email protected] rpm then drops right off quickly will be a lot slower than a motor that makes 75 ft/lbs @ 1500 rpm, climbs to 150 @ 2500, peaks at 180 @ 5k rpm and stays above 150 ft/lbs right to 6500....
 

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Thanks, All, for explaining...
Sorry man. This is WAY over my head...

I just did some more runs with a different test tune file and I didn't even need to turn traction control off for a launch with it. World of difference.. slower throttle response and 0-60 times, but no spin at all... Clutch engagement seemed higher up too. I kept testing it while holding the brake pedal to see where it would start to vibrate.

I flashed back the original final tune file and will be testing that out over the weekend.
CK
 

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Sorry man. This is WAY over my head...

I just did some more runs with a different test tune file and I didn't even need to turn traction control off for a launch with it. World of difference.. slower throttle response and 0-60 times, but no spin at all... Clutch engagement seemed higher up too. I kept testing it while holding the brake pedal to see where it would start to vibrate.

CK
Yeah, but what was the upper end of the rpm band like? I have a Race tune that Rafael sent me a while back that is like that...not much on the bottom end but once the rpms came up past about 3k it just ripped right out to the cutoff....something like that would probably be good for an autoX circuit where you stay in 2nd gear and above 4k rpm most of the time.
 

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The high end RPM was fun as hell to take advantage of. Work the gears more and keep the RPMs high through turns... fun stuff. :)
CK

Now to see how my final tune file performs with the Dragy. Should be interesting as the torque doesn't build as fast on this file.
 

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Cool. Explain all of that to him and you should be golden.

I asked him to set the min idle to 900 RPM too, but he did 750 RPM as a compromise, and it works well. I have the CS RMM and TMM installed too. They are great mods.
CK
Cool. Thanks. Good to hear on the mounts as well. Do you have a SRI w/ box? If so, how is your tune responding to that setup?
 

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The high end RPM was fun as hell to take advantage of. Work the gears more and keep the RPMs high through turns... fun stuff. :)
CK

Now to see how my final tune file performs with the Dragy. Should be interesting as the torque doesn't build as fast on this file.
Do you prefer Dragy over a ScanGuage II?
 

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I have the AEM cold air intake system designed for the Mazda 6 that is CARB legal on said 6 (same engine).

It produced higher max numbers than the OEM box.

On par with the K&N 69 Typhoon that I also tested but with lower IAT numbers.

Haven't used a scan gauge.

Dragy is super small, wireless and very easy to use. It doesn't do as much as Scan Gauge does, as that reads from the OBDII port, and has access to CEL codes and more data from all of the car's sensors.
CK
 
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So, did a couple quick runs this morning on my way to getting coffee with Dragy. Fun little toy.

Beat my previous best both times.. 7.69 sec 0-60 mph with some wheel spin on 1st engagement and on 2nd engagement being the best of the two.

With a better take off and 2nd shift.. 7 flat may be doable.

Changing springs and getting a better alignment made a huge difference.
CK
 

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Like you, I'd like to get as much torque and HP as possible while not dogging the engine out--I hope to be still driving it a decade+ from now. I'd like to also adjust the min idle to +750. I recently put on the RMM and TMM would like to decrease the NVH if possible (900 seems to do it).
900 RPM did it for me too... for a while. After a few weeks, for whatever reason, the windshield started shaking so much that I couldn't see out of my rear view mirror anymore because everything was basically blurry due the the vibrations. Vibrations didn't feel any worse physically, it was just worse visually. So I tried out a few other RPMs and finally settled on 1020 RPM. That's kinda high for idling, but at least I can see out of my rear view mirror now.
I also tried 800 & 850 with no luck. 950 was better but still wasn't 'clear' enough so I went higher.
 

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750 RPM with a CS RMM and TMM.

Works great.
CK
 

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Dumb question but does flipping on sports mode replace the ovt tune during the duration its on?
 

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Sport mode has nothing to do with the tune, or the engine for that matter. Sport mode changes the way the automatic transmission shifts.
 
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