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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Well I've gotten up to the point where I'm ready to take my first datalog and I thought I'd take the time to document the process so far. This is meant for those of you who are considering the tune and wondered what all was involved. I know there's a writeup for a 2.0 engine, but I haven't seen a writeup on this site for the 2.5 engine. I plan on doing a dyno run before the first flashing to get a baseline reading. I'll post everything here (thoughts, pictures and videos) so that everything is documented as much as possible.

This is my current configuration:

2015 Mazda 3 sGT 2.5 w/ manual tranny
Corksport cat-back exhaust
Corksport SRI w/ Corksport Cold Air Box
Corksport Short Shift Kit and Upgraded Shifter Bushings
Corksport Weighted Shifter
Corksport RMM
Corksport Rear Sway Bar (lower setting)
Corksport Front Strut Tower Bar
Eibach Pro-Kit Spring Set
Koni Sport Struts and Shocks

I know many of these items won't affect the tune itself, but I thought I'd post them all in case anyone was curious. There will be more to come tomorrow hopefully if I can get some dyno time scheduled...


04/02/2016

Well I already got my base file back from Matt, but I'm not ready to do the first flash yet. I'm going to try to do my run on the dyno today and I also need to fill up my tank with 93 octane. 93 octane (with 10% ethanol) is the most prevalent form of premium fuel in my area, so I'll have it tuned for that. The tank is almost empty now, so after the dyno and a little driving around today it should be ready to fill up. Matt suggested filling up with the preferred fuel for tuning prior to loading the base file as it helps to get the fuel trims closer quicker.


04/03/2016

I did the first log this morning. This log was done before filling up with 93 octane and before loading the base file that Matt sent to me. The logging went pretty easily. There were only a few issues I ran into and I've already sent a message to Matt, so I'll update this when I get an answer back. The first issue was a "can't find port" error message when trying to do the log. Matt addresses this in his instructions and I think I've figured this issue out. I get this message every time I restart my laptop and try to reconnect the Tactrix unit. I think it's because of my unholy combination of running windows on a mac in bootcamp. Probably a driver issue or something, but I have a work around. I just input the device and vin keys every time before trying to start a log and it seems to do just fine. The second issue is that there were two logging parameters missing from my list that Matt shows needing to be selected in his instructions. They were "Commanded EGR" and "Fuel Rail Pressure (relative to manifold vacuum)". Not sure if these will be an issue, but I've sent an email request and I'll let everyone know what I get something back.

Here's a picture for anyone who doesn't know where the OBDII port is on their Mazda 3 (keep in mind I have a 2015 model):



By the way, here's a video. I'm new to uploading/editing videos, so any suggestions on how to make a better video would be welcome.



04/04/2016

Well those parameters that were missing from the data log setup supposedly aren't an issue. Matt said that some vehicle won't trigger the logging system to show those parameters. As for the dyno, I finally have a day and time scheduled. I'll be getting a few runs in on a dyno this Thursday at 3pm, so I should be able to post the results later that evening.


04/05/2016

I tried searching for some spots to try the "WOT" data logs since one of the users on this forum suggested doing the test in 3rd gear rather than 2nd gear. Just to let everyone know, you need enough road to safely get up to 90mph if you're going to log in 3rd gear. I tried two different on-ramps because I figured I'd only get up to about 75mph before hitting redline. Watch my video and you can see that right at redline I'm up at just above 90mph. I live in Raleigh where traffic can be heavy at times and flying into traffic from an on-ramp at 90mph isn't going to work out too well. I'll have to find a better time of day when I don't have to worry about merging with traffic. I also need to put my laptop on a towel or blanket or something so that it doesn't slide around when I brake...



04/07/2016

Today was dyno day! I'm adding a video of the two dyno runs. It's pretty unimpressive, so if you're looking for something amazing or looking for an engine blowing up or something like that then I'm sorry. For those of you that have never seen a 2015 Mazda 3 on a dyno before, well maybe you'll enjoy this. As for the dyno results, please keep in mind that this is simply a baseline test to get a good starting point. Once the tune is complete I will take the car back to the same dyno to have it tested again and see where it ends up. It's been a long day and I have to get the car re-inspected tomorrow (failed a state inspection because Florida tint isn't legal in North Carolina), so I'll fill it up with 93 octane and load the base file later tomorrow.


First dyno run results:



Second dyno run results:




04/09/2016

I've run into a bit of an issue... Since I had to drive down to Fayetteville for the dyno run, I mistakenly topped off my tank with regular gasoline. So now I'm sitting with a third of a tank and I meant to load the base file tonight. I can't do that until I fill the tank with 93. I was going to just syphon the tank and put the fuel in my wife's suv, but there must be some sort of screen down in the fuel filler neck. I couldn't get a tube down to the tank for anything. I'm not going to waste gas by just driving around town, so it may be a few days before I post again (Unless someone has a suggestion on how to empty the fuel tank). On a plus note, I installed the Yakima roof rack that I've been meaning to put on there.


04/10/2016

I know I said it might be a couple of days, but my wife asked if we could go to an outlet shopping center that's about 45 minutes away. I took the opportunity to use up the fuel remaining in the tank. It wasn't perfect, but I rolled into the gas station when we got back home with 2 miles showing on the "miles remaining" display. I put half a tank of 93 octane in. I'll keep letting the tank drain all the way down before filling up so that all of the lower grade gas works it way out of the system. I just flashed the ecu with the base file that as sent to me. No big issues. The car started right up. The only weird thing I noticed was that the "AFS Off" light was showing on the dashboard when the car started up. Pressing the "AFS Off" button turns it on and off though, so I'll have to wait until later tonight to test that it's actually working. I see no reason as to why the AFS system would be affected. Time to drive 60 miles and log again...


04/13/2016

I did the second log set this evening and wanted to post an update. First of all: there's absolutely no issue with the AFS system since loading the base hex file. The "AFS Off" light hasn't come back on by itself, so now I'm beginning to question whether it was the base hex file that caused it to come on or if I accidentally pressed the button when I was plugging in the Tactrix. All that matters to me is that there is no issue. As for the data log itself, it was pretty straight forward. One thing I noticed is that it seems the redline limiter was either deleted or increased. The limiter was very noticeable during the first log set and I didn't notice a limiter at all this time around. I asked Matt if that was a part of the base hex file that was loaded so I'll report back when I get an answer. As for the video I'm posting, I need some feedback. I only video'd the WOT portion of the log this time and I figured I wouldn't video the log runs anymore because I think they're somewhat boring. But if anyone here really wants to see a video of each log I'd be happy to do it. Just let me know by posting something. Let me know if you do or don't want video and if you do, do you want a full video or just the WOT portion.



04/14/2016

I already received the second hex file back and loaded it this afternoon. Everything went just like the last flash, even the "AFS Off" light being on when I restarted the car. So now I know that it's part of the flashing and not me accidentally pushing the button. Has anyone else see this happen? I already know that the AFS system isn't actually affected by the flash, but I'm curious as to why it does this. By the way, Matt said that the redline limit was increased to 6800 rpm through the base hex file. Time to put in my next 60 miles...


04/17/2016

I was hoping to have been able to do the next log after loading the second hex file, but I had to go out of town for business. I will do the logging tomorrow when I get back home. I did want to talk about the number of hex files that have been loaded so far. I've had two so far and from what I understand there can be up to eight before things are finalized. After loading the second file I can feel a slight difference in the low end response. Not a huge difference, but noticeable. For those who are considering this tune, please be sure that you have an adequate amount of time to devote to the whole process. So, don't buy the tune on Thursday and expect your car to be ready for the track on Saturday.


04/18/2016

Time for another update. I went ahead and did the third log this evening. I'm uploading a full video of this log since that's what was requested. If you feel it's too boring, just skip past the parts you don't like. I also video'd the setup process I go through every time I log. It takes me a little longer because I load the hardware and vin codes every time I use the software. That seems to keep any error messages away. I decided to take a different route for the cruise part of the log, but I didn't care for it. I'll try something different next time.



04/19/2016

I received the next (third) hex file back from Matt today and I've already loaded it. Still having the issue of the "AFS Off" light coming on after the flash, but at this point it's just something I'll have to deal with. I'm curious if anyone else had this issue when flashing? Also, Matt said that my log data looks good, especially the WOT logs. So I would suggest logging the WOT runs in third gear like some of the other users suggested. That's what I've been doing and it seems to be working out well.


04/25/2016

It's been a little while, but things have been very busy for me lately. I was able to do the fourth log set this evening and I feel like I'm getting more response from the car; especially during the WOT logs. It's getting late, so I'll work on editing and uploading the video tomorrow. I've been playing with a way to overlay speed and rpm data on top of the video, but I haven't quite perfected it yet. It might have to wait until the next log. For now, I decided to move the camera for the WOT logs so that the tach and speedometer are more clearly visible.



04/28/2016

I received my fourth hex file this morning and Matt said that it will be the final file. He just wants me to get two more WOT logs to verify the numbers. I was expecting about 7-8 files before everything was all said and done, but maybe he's getting more efficient with his tuning process. Anyways, I'll do the required 60 or so miles before doing the WOT logs and update everyone. If Matt says it's good to go after that, I'll schedule the dyno time to get final numbers.


05/03/2016

So I've run into a bit of an issue... I was going to do my final WOT logs this evening, but when I booted up my laptop it crapped out. I've spent much of the day reloading OSX and Windows (via Bootcamp), but when I reinstalled MazdaEdit it showed a different hardware fingerprint. I've reached out to Matt to see if it's possible to deactivate my previous license so that I can use MazdaEdit with the new hardware fingerprint, but I probably won't get anything back in time to do the log this evening. I have the dyno time scheduled for Thursday morning, so I may have to push that out now. I'll update when I get something back from Matt. Has anyone else run into this issue? Also, I know this is a bit off-topic, but I went ahead and installed my new wheels. The difference is noticeable, so I'll be swapping the stock wheels back for the dyno run.




05/05/2016

So I went to do the dyno run today. I was expecting the ambient temperature to be about ten degrees warmer than last time, but we've had storm front moving through so the temp was almost exactly the same. Humidity was much higher though. That being said, here's the final figures:

Original Max Torque: 169
Original Max HP: 161

Final Max Torque: 176.9
Final Max HP: 173.3

Max Torque Increase: 7.9
Max HP Increase: 12.3

I was expecting gains closer to 20 HP since I have an aftermarket intake and full exhaust system, but who knows? I know I can feel a difference from when the process started and that's what I really care about. I'm not planning on taking the car to a track or trying to drag race people in the street, so I think the fact that it feels more fun to drive is good enough for me. If you take a look at the comparison graph, you can see that most of the torque increase is at the lower rpm range. I think that's where most of the difference is felt. I know that below 3500 rpm the car always felt so slow and now it picks up better. Let me know your thoughts. I still have to do the final WOT logs, but I can do that now since Matt got my MazdaEdit working again.

I'll start going back through the whole process and all of these posts to try and compile the information.

UPDATE: Ok so I've already had some feedback from Matt and some other members saying that these figures are way too low. I've even been told that they're the lowest figures of any 2.5... I don't know if I should be proud of that or horrified lol. Either way, something is wrong and I'm working to get to the bottom of it. I'll be doing some logs for Matt this weekend. The two most likely culprits are 1) a faulty dyno (I'm leaning towards this since my "butt dyno" tells me that this is a completely different driving experience from when I started) and 2) the CS cold air box. The theory is that the air box is restricting the amount of air coming into the engine and that is affecting the tune. I'll start looking for a different dyno in the area and it's also been suggested that I try out the VDyno to try and collect some figures. I'll update as things progress.






05/08/2016

I've removed the CS cold air box and I'm going to do a couple more logs tonight for Matt to take a look at. I'll update everyone on the progress after I get something back. This thread seems to be slowly turning into a discussion about the CS cold air box. Let's keep the discussion on tuning as best we can. I already have a thread started on the CS cold air box, so please go to that thread for a discussion on inlet sizing and the effects it may/may not have on tuning.

Link to: http://mazda3revolution.com/forums/2014-2016-mazda-3-skyactiv-engine-performance/125481-corksport-cold-air-box.html

 

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Thanks for this. I have a 2.5 auto and would like to do this tune. Can't wait to see what kind of gains you are getting. Also glad to see that you're continuing with this after your "exchange" with Matt on this forum.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for this. I have a 2.5 auto and would like to do this tune. Can't wait to see what kind of gains you are getting. Also glad to see that you're continuing with this after your "exchange" with Matt on this forum.
You're welcome. I'm really excited about this tune and I hope everyone who reads this thread can get something out of it. As for the "exchange", I'd rather leave that out of this as if it never happened. I'm happy with the way things are now and I want this thread to be about the tune process itself.
 

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Glad you sorted it out! Really excited to see your progress with the tune too. Looks like the catback and Sri are the only common performance mods that could help with our tune

Sent from my LG-H812 using Tapatalk
 

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Glad everything turned out for the better. Looking forward to the info bud, thanks. Definitely considering the tune down the road.
 

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I'm very interested to see the results. I'm on the fence on whether to get the OV tune for my 2.5 on 91 octane or not (I could get 93 octane at a few stations, but 91 seems more prevalent in NJ).
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I'm very interested to see the results. I'm on the fence on whether to get the OV tune for my 2.5 on 91 octane or not (I could get 93 octane at a few stations, but 91 seems more prevalent in NJ).
Yeah I'm in the Raleigh, NC area and all I've seen around here is 93. I'm having trouble finding a place to do a dyno pull on though. The one place I was hoping to take it to today never called me back, so it will probably be next week before I can get on a dyno...
 

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If you can get the dynos done this thread would be really useful. Im planning to keep mine pretty stock as I do too much commuting to live with much increase in noise or decrease in ride quality, but after the warranty goes I'd be interested in the tune. I don't think I've seen dyno evidence on a 2.5 in the Mazda3 though. Can you also note if you have the sedan or the hatch?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
If you can get the dynos done this thread would be really useful. Im planning to keep mine pretty stock as I do too much commuting to live with much increase in noise or decrease in ride quality, but after the warranty goes I'd be interested in the tune. I don't think I've seen dyno evidence on a 2.5 in the Mazda3 though. Can you also note if you have the sedan or the hatch?
Mine is a hatch
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
Does anyone know how to embed a Youtube video so that it displays directly in the post? Right now the video link I posted just displays as a regular link, but when I look at it through the "enhanced mobile view" on my phone, it displays as an embedded video...
 

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Yes. Like this. So if I copy the address of this video directly from youtube and paste it here : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DuSmwtRe7Q8 - it will simply post a link. However, if I delete the S off HTTP(S) and add "&feature" to the end of the address you get this
Enjoy the video. It's a good watch.

@stbrothers
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·

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Nice to see you got everything sorted out. Just wanted to give you some advice with your tune so you get it dialed-in as best as possible... For the logs, I recommend driving at least 60 miles before making them despite the instructions saying far less. This is because the ECU takes far longer to settle the long term fuel trims 100%. The tune will suffer a bit if the logs are done too soon, as you will be sending Mat data on how the car is responding prior to having all the settings settled after the ECU is reset (flashed). He won't be able to calibrate the settings to their maximum potential, especially your MAF calibration... Also, I wanted to clarify the base tune... Its not stated in the instructions, but the base map is not the stock map. It actually has a number of tweaks right of out the box. If you plan to dyno a "before" scenario, flashing back to the stock map is your best bet ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Nice to see you got everything sorted out. Just wanted to give you some advice with your tune so you get it dialed-in as best as possible... For the logs, I recommend driving at least 60 miles before making them despite the instructions saying far less. This is because the ECU takes far longer to settle the long term fuel trims 100%. The tune will suffer a bit if the logs are done too soon, as you will be sending Mat data on how the car is responding prior to having all the settings settled after the ECU is reset (flashed). He won't be able to calibrate the settings to their maximum potential, especially your MAF calibration... Also, I wanted to clarify the base tune... Its not stated in the instructions, but the base map is not the stock map. It actually has a number of tweaks right of out the box. If you plan to dyno a "before" scenario, flashing back to the stock map is your best bet ;)
Thanks for the tip. I didn't know it could take that long to settle. I haven't loaded the base file yet. I've been waiting to do that until after I get the baseline figures from the dyno.
 

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Yeah, I find they are only partly settled at 30 miles which I believe was recommended, but continue to settle till around 60ish miles. Forgot to mention also to do your WOT runs in 3rd gear rather than 2nd as some people do. 2nd gear logs are decent, but 3rd allows the engine to spend more time in the higher engine load ranges. I've noticed that knock that would otherwise show up in longer 3rd gear runs can become hidden in 2nd gear, as there is simply not enough time to reach all map targets and push the engine to its limits. Its easier to do the ~2000-6500 rpm 3rd gear runs on highway on-ramps where you can finish at a speed that is reasonably near the posted limit...
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Yeah, I find they are only partly settled at 30 miles which I believe was recommended, but continue to settle till around 60ish miles. Forgot to mention also to do your WOT runs in 3rd gear rather than 2nd as some people do. 2nd gear logs are decent, but 3rd allows the engine to spend more time in the higher engine load ranges. I've noticed that knock that would otherwise show up in longer 3rd gear runs can become hidden in 2nd gear, as there is simply not enough time to reach all map targets and push the engine to its limits. Its easier to do the ~2000-6500 rpm 3rd gear runs on highway on-ramps where you can finish at a speed that is reasonably near the posted limit...
Just curious, but would that be 60 miles of "mixed" driving or could I just spend an hour driving 30 miles out on the freeway and 30 miles back?
 

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Just curious, but would that be 60 miles of "mixed" driving or could I just spend an hour driving 30 miles out on the freeway and 30 miles back?
It doesn't have to be entirely 60 miles of mixed driving, but putting in a nice mix of highway and city driving would help. Highway driving does not allow the engine to breath throughout its full range very much. The ECU will acquire more data throughout a wider range of engine load & rpms during city driving. I would also go hard on the throttle at times so that you are not going WOT for the first time after a flash during your log. Mat mentioned before that power improves over time after the car learns the trims involved in going WOT. A part of these trims are also learned during normal city driving.
 
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
It doesn't have to be entirely 60 miles of mixed driving, but putting in a nice mix of highway and city driving would help. Highway driving does not allow the engine to breath throughout its full range very much. The ECU will acquire more data throughout a wider range of engine load & rpms during city driving. I would also go hard on the throttle at times so that you are not going WOT for the first time after a flash during your log. Mat mentioned before that power improves over time after the car learns the trims involved in going WOT. A part of these trims are also learned during normal city driving.
Ok thanks for the tip!
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Yeah, I find they are only partly settled at 30 miles which I believe was recommended, but continue to settle till around 60ish miles. Forgot to mention also to do your WOT runs in 3rd gear rather than 2nd as some people do. 2nd gear logs are decent, but 3rd allows the engine to spend more time in the higher engine load ranges. I've noticed that knock that would otherwise show up in longer 3rd gear runs can become hidden in 2nd gear, as there is simply not enough time to reach all map targets and push the engine to its limits. Its easier to do the ~2000-6500 rpm 3rd gear runs on highway on-ramps where you can finish at a speed that is reasonably near the posted limit...
I tried the 3rd gear WOT log today and I might have to rethink where I actually do it. I had no idea that I would be getting up to 90 by the time I got to 6500 rpm. Not a good idea trying to merge into busy traffic at 90 lol
 
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