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Discussion Starter #1
Hi everyone. It's been about a week with my Mazda3 sport and just had some issues I'd like to see if anyone had the same.

1. No matter how slowly I ease my foot off the clutch pedal, there is a bit of a 'lurch' towards the end. Did anyone else have the same issue? I drove a manual GTI before, drove an automatic for 5-6 months before going back to the manual Mazda, but I don't think that's the issue (or at least I dont want to admit that's the issue)

2. Engine note isn't the most pleasant. Is it any better with the Corksport/JBR intake?

3. Ride is pretty firm. Not hard or harsh, but it's a tad softer than my Eibach springs/Bilstein shocks on my GTI, even on the 205-60-16 tires, granted they're the low-rolling resistance ones.

Besides that, there is little to dislike about the Mazda 3. Of course, one will have buyers remorse but i think that just shows how competitive the market is between the Civic Si, GTI, and the Mazda3 as far as driver-centric compacts are concerned.
 

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*The Electrician*
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learn to live with the clutch, just how it is, its finite, precise, gotta do it just right. Took me a bit of time to get used to it but you'll get there. Try a rear swaybar upgrade, really steps up another notch in the corners even on factory tires. For the engine, remove the plastic engine cover heat soaker, and for the intake, there is a procedure on this forum somewhere that details how to widen a water drain hole in the bottom section of the air intake box. I found it brought about a sufficient sound for my needs, but definitely wish I had money for an SRI still, I miss that noise.
 

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Hoon Apprentice
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learn to live with the clutch, just how it is, its finite, precise, gotta do it just right. Took me a bit of time to get used to it but you'll get there. Try a rear swaybar upgrade, really steps up another notch in the corners even on factory tires. For the engine, remove the plastic engine cover heat soaker, and for the intake, there is a procedure on this forum somewhere that details how to widen a water drain hole in the bottom section of the air intake box. I found it brought about a sufficient sound for my needs, but definitely wish I had money for an SRI still, I miss that noise.
What exactly does removing the plastic engine cover do? I thought it help shield the engine's heat away from the intake? :001_huh 1:
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I'm thinking of getting a RSB, though the current set up is well dampened and haven't found excessive body roll on a daily drive. One of my friends recommended giving more gas when letting off the clutch and on today's morning commute that has helped a bit. I think the clutch engages lower on the pedal travel, so also getting used to that takes some time.

As far as the intake sound goes, I'm not looking to change the volume so much but the tone. It's not the most flattering.
 

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*The Electrician*
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I'm thinking of getting a RSB, though the current set up is well dampened and haven't found excessive body roll on a daily drive. One of my friends recommended giving more gas when letting off the clutch and on today's morning commute that has helped a bit. I think the clutch engages lower on the pedal travel, so also getting used to that takes some time.

As far as the intake sound goes, I'm not looking to change the volume so much but the tone. It's not the most flattering.
No SRI will change the volume, you want the tone, adding an SRI will do that, and only that. Essentially its a $200-$300 noise maker. An SRI can only change volume if you get a tune, even then its minimal.

What exactly does removing the plastic engine cover do? I thought it help shield the engine's heat away from the intake? :001_huh 1:
do explain that to me because all I see is an item creating heat soak at the top of the engine.
 

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Super Moderator
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What exactly does removing the plastic engine cover do? I thought it help shield the engine's heat away from the intake? :001_huh 1:
The intake isn't shielded by the cover, so no help there. If anything, the shape of the cover directs airflow (hot air from the radiator) over the top of the engine and down across the header to the under side of the car.
More than anything though, the cover provides heat protection for the paint on the hood, much like the fiber pad heat shields you find on older cars.
 

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I find the clutch a bit annoying. A compound bow has pulleys with cam-like shape to make the pulling the bow a bit more difficult for a while and then easy to hold... the tension though the pull is not linear. Our clutch feels like it does some sort of magic like this, where the force required through the pedal travel is not linear. And so what's annoying is that there seems to be a lot of pedal travel but only a small amount of that pedal travel engages and disengages the clutch, and at that point, the travel feels like it takes more force. So why is it annoying? It can get really "bouncy" at that point! Because, as you slip the clutch to engage, the car lurches forward, forcing your foot to ease off the clutch, losing power, causing your foot to lurch forward, re-engaging power, and on and on, putting the foot/clutch system into a hysteresis.... well, yes, all foot/clutch systems will do this to a certain degree, but our 3 seems to magnify this problem a little more than normal.....

And what I've found to make this transition a bit smoother, is to add more throttle and more clutch slip.... which is NOT good for the life of the clutch.... oh well..... I think Mazda designed it this way so that pressing the clutch pedal feels easy. ... for most of the press
 

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2018 Mazda 3 GT
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You need to slowly release the clutch, once it is engaged, if you want a smooth shift. I do a quick release of the clutch to the point where it engages, start on the throttle and then slowly release the clutch as I add more gas. The last 3-4 inches of the clutch release are key.

Even if you have the speed and RPM perfectly set for the shift, if you release the clutch too quickly after engaging the throttle, there will be a lurching movement. Especially in lower gears and at lower speeds.

I think Mazda designed the clutch this way so that it would be more responsive to user inputs.
CK
 

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It took me a little while to get used to the clutch too. It seemed stiff or hard to push in at first and then all of a sudden it was easy and my foot would slam the pedal to the floor. It was almost like the clutch would give way about halfway through the pedal travel. It feels normal to me now but it took a few weeks to get used to it. I am still a little jerky sometimes when shifting.
 

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I have KN filter in my stock air box and it sounds better than OEM paper filter. I believe someone on the forum has tested that the OEM air box is good enough and aftermarket SRI won’t give provide any performance increase.


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2015 Mazda3 Sport GT 2.5L MT
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I'm still getting used to the clutch. I really like everything else about the car, and maybe I'd have found something else I wouldn't have liked if I went with something else. I guess my 70k mile GTI will always be the standard as far as manual transmissions go. The main difference as far as the pedal feel is concerned is when I'm releasing it. It's about the same effort to push it in. Heavier than Honda for sure, a bit heavier than the newer Volkswagens. However, the most difficult thing about this clutch pedal is it always wants to return to the resting position. I have to keep my left leg really tense to let it out slowly. otherwise it just pushes my leg back and the car lurches forward.

Besides that, not having a manual trunk release is a bit of a bummer (I'm always paranoid my key fob will run out of juice), shifter isn't 'Honda' nice. I do like the engine besides the whiny sound. It's pretty smooth, responsive, and seems to be great on gas mileage.
 
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