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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
i do my own oil changes.

i brought my 2015 mazda3 to the dealership for a recall.
they did their usual 360 degree check (or whatever they call it) in addition.

the service rep said the mechanic found slight oil leaking and suggested that i replace the drain plug/washer.

i can see it not being tight. just tighten it, right?
but to buy a new one and replace? ???

How does an oil drain plug/washer fail?
 

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I have often found that many do not know how to tell the difference between a crush washer and a flat washer.
When in doubt and you are not sure which it is use better to use a nylon or fiber washer on the oil drain plug. Just use a "tad" bit of anti seize on the threads and don't over tighten any drain plug.
 

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A crush washer is aluminum.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk
Not always.......
Brass is very common on oil drain plugs. As well other materials including even stainless steel.

Electronics Electronic device Technology Computer hardware Screen
 

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"Stainless" is not any particular steel. Its a generic term for a metal that has enhanced corrosion resistance. There are many different alloys that can be considered stainless. In addition to that, heat treatment and tempering can change the hardness of most steel alloys.
 

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"Stainless" is not any particular steel. Its a generic term for a metal that has enhanced corrosion resistance. There are many different alloys that can be considered stainless. In addition to that, heat treatment and tempering can change the hardness of most steel alloys.
Stainless steel is indeed a particular type of steel, or a classification of steel alloys. What makes a steel stainless is the addition of chromium in the alloy. Because the alloy ratios can be adjusted, there are many different alloys of stainless. Some better than others with respect to corrosion resistance.

There are other steel alloys that have some corrosion resistance but are not considered stainless since they don't have the minimum chromium content.

I really wish they'd make body panels out of a good stainless, but that tends to get expensive fast.
 

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I call that BS, I've got the same crush washer since I did my first OCI.

However, if you didn't tighten it correctly then it will definitely leak.
I always use a torque wrench on my oil drain plugs. I don't change the crush washer either, but it isn't BS. My son's oil drain plug started leaking at 130,000 miles (I do the oil changes on all the cars in the family). So yes, it can eventually happen. I bought a cheap pack of 10 Mazda crush washers and will now start using them on both his car and my daughter's car each oil change. $0.25 is cheap insurance against dripping oil.
 

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I had the same issue with oil drips from the oil pan bolt. I did like I have done on 20+ cars I have owned...turned the crush washer over and reused it for the second oil change. After a couple days my garage floor had some oil on the floor. So I removed the panel and sure enough it was dripping from the oil drain bolt. Bought a 10 crush washers from the Mazda dealership and replaced the crush washer. Cured the issue. I will for now on replace the crush washer at every oil change.
 

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Before trading in our Acura and previous Mazda for our current 2017 hatch, I never replaced the crush washer once on either car after doing two dozen plus oil changes on the two cars with 75K and 95K, respectively. No leaks. I was one of the lucky ones. Installed a fumoto valve this time around.
 

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I change my own oil, and when I got my Mazda3 and saw they recommend a new copper washer for each oil change, I bought a Fumoto valve. It makes changing the oil just a little bit easier.

I also have Fumoto valves on my Jeep and F250.

Nary a drip of oil has been seen to fall from any of the valves until I flip the valve open and watch it flow.
 
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