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I don't remember the oil filter wrench, but when I was at Walmart I looked at the alternative filters codes. Then I found next to them the cheap Fram oil filter wrench for those filters. It said in the wrench package which filters it fitted. I bought that wrench and it was the right size for the alternatives, and also to take out the OEM filter.
 

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Thank you Ypay4it for uploading this information.

Today I changed the oil and filter of my 7 month old SP 2.5 GT. I am in South Australia; I used Castrol Edge 5W-40 and replaced the filter with a genuine one. Without the information contained in this thread I would have been "in the dark".

Thank you one and all for your efforts.
 

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I've never replaced a drain plug washer in my life and never had a leak. If it gives you peace of mind then go for it, but it's definitely not essential.
In 30+ years of doing my own oil changes on all sorts of vehicles I never replaced the washer. There were cars we kept for 15 years and still on their original!

The other thing I've learned, just when you think you have all the different oil filter wrench sizes you will ever need, your next vehicle will prove you wrong. This is true even if you just switch filter brands.
 

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I found my Rhino ramps on Craigslist, think I paid around $25. Only needed for front.
 

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Oil change for the 2.5 is similar. It, too, uses an M1-108 oil filter. I used M1 0w20.

I drove the 3 upon a couple rubberized ramps I bought at Advance Auto. For my Miata, I had to place a 1x6 in front of the ramps to keep its front dam from touching the ramps. For any of you with lowered 3s, this could be a solution to use of ramps, safer than use of jack stands.

I like to use an oil extractor, and it has worked on every engine so far except for the a VW Cabrio I had. For the 3, I failed and had to open the 8 mm drain plug. Figured out what I did wrong, and used it on my Miata. No problem. Just use your dipstick and insert the extractor line in the depth indicated by the dipstick. Then insert another inch or so until you feel the line hit the bottom of the pan. Then pull back maybe 1/2 to 1 mm and start the suction. Once it starts sucking air, push it that last 1/2 to 1 mm to the pan until you get mostly air and hardly any oil.

The 2016 3's oil filter/drain setup is really easy to work with. It would be better if Mazda would make the oil filter accessible from the top. But the 3s setup is better than the Miata's. It has a couple frame members that are in the way of the oil filter's "drain" area. The trick on the Miata filter is to use a zip lock bag to catch any oil that wants to come out when the filter is loosened and lowered. You could use this technique on the 3 as well and not need to use a drain pan. You could use your extractor to remove the oil from the filter if you don't like letting that little bit of oil onto the ground.

Ralph
 

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Changed oil for the first time on my 2014 3i GT 2.0L at 2,500 miles today:
1. Safety raise car to allow access to underside.
2. Remove access panel by removing two 8mm (or phillips) hex bolts and two clips. (The clips have center part that you can use a small standard screw driver to gently pry down then you can remove the clips-see pics.)
3. Remove oil drain plug with 8mm hex wrench or hex socket.
4. After oil is completely drained replace drain plug after installing a new crush washer (my car did not have one from the factory- $1.39 from my Mazda dealer).
5. Remove oil filter. The filter is vertical beside the drain plug. It is best to use one of those filter wrenches that fit over the end of the filter and that you use a 3/8" ratchet to turn (see pics).
6. Apply a small film of clean oil to the seal on the new filter, fill it with new oil and install it. Do not use a wrench, just tighten snug by hand.
7. Add aprox. 4.4 Qts of new 0W-20 full synthetic oil. (owners manual says 4.4Qts and that put it to the top of dip stick).
8. Start the car and allow to run while checking underneath car for any leaks.
9. Turn car off, wait at least 10 minutes then check oil level to confirm it is full.
10. Replace oil change access panel under car.
11. Record oil change in your records. (remember to keep your receipts for parts to ensure Mazda will honor the warranty in case you ever have a problem with the engine.)

I'm missing one of the plastic clip from the cover and two of the 8mm hex bolts. I been looking to purchase some myself, but have any luck in finding them. Would you happen to know the OEM part numbers for the plastic clip and the 8 mm hex bolts? Thanks for your help.
 
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