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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
just recently aquired a 2014 mazda 3 i GT. it needs some cosmetic work.
i know i can just go to a dealer but im trying to save as much money as i can, online is usually cheaper. maybe there might be some deals online somewhere, im planning on buying quite a few parts.
where do you guys buy oem parts new/used online?
 

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2018 Mazda 3 GT
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mazdaswag and tascaparts both have pretty good prices and customer service.
CK
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
What are you planning on buying.
um let me see....
rear bumper
fog lights/switch
driver heated mirror with bsm glass only
passenger front air deflector
oil service panel cover
splash guards all around
rearview mirror with dimming and compass
rear passenger splash shield inside wheel well
all weather mats and trunk
i think thats it....gotta see if im forgetting something else. yall mentioned rockauto, i thought that was aftermarket parts? im looking to get oem mazda parts preferably. thanks for the replies!
 

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um let me see....
rear bumper
fog lights/switch
driver heated mirror with bsm glass only
passenger front air deflector
oil service panel cover
splash guards all around
rearview mirror with dimming and compass
rear passenger splash shield inside wheel well
all weather mats and trunk
i think thats it....gotta see if im forgetting something else. yall mentioned rockauto, i thought that was aftermarket parts? im looking to get oem mazda parts preferably. thanks for the replies!
Doubt you will find any of those body parts on RockAuto. That's not their focus, they sell replacement/maintenance parts.
As others said, junk yards/used auto parts websites would be the standard place to look.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
As far as New Genuine OEM parts goes, your most cost-effective option is tascaparts.com. If you're in the US, I believe they offer free shipping (or at least to the lower 48 states) as well.
just looked at that website, $211 for bumper and $285 to ship! man im better off just buying at the local dealer if shipping costs are that much. ill keep looking around for now, looks like the local dealer is my best option so far with shipping costs! :frown2:
 

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just looked at that website, $211 for bumper and $285 to ship! man im better off just buying at the local dealer if shipping costs are that much. ill keep looking around for now, looks like the local dealer is my best option so far with shipping costs! :frown2:
I would recommend a junkyard for parts like that. Shipping is outrageous just because of the size. You can always get a bumper painted or even paint it yourself if you want to learn how.

A body shop shouldn't be too expensive if its already removed. They can also match to your car or the old bumper.

If you want to do it yourself, its not a bad job but it is very hazardous. Automotive paint poses some very serious health risks if not handled correctly. You'd need to buy some gear for sure.
 

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I also would go to a junkyard for large , non wearing, parts. Do the new part suppliers deliver parts finished to match your car's color or just primed?

Auto painting is a skill in itself . It can look awful unless properly done, I also generally take the parts to a professional with the car for color matching.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
i will try some local junkyards, but im thinking my chances are slim, being these cars are still pretty new. i will look around if any junkyard here specializes in mazda parts.
im not to worried about painting the bumper, i got a buddy who's a professional painter.
 

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Auto painting is a skill in itself . It can look awful unless properly done, I also generally take the parts to a professional with the car for color matching.
It certainty is. However, my attitude is if you never try you'll never learn. It's actually nnot very hard, just takes a little practice. I taught myself and I can produce results on par with the professionals minus the exact colour matching. Without a paint lab, I can only come close - extremely close.

The big barrier for many of us is the gear. You need a suitable place to paint, the guns, compressor, a dryer/filter is an asset, and then ppe...a good respirator masks that fits properly is a necessity. I use one I'm tested for in my job, so I just bought the same one. I also use disposable gloves and disposal coveralls. I also use plastic shopping bags around my feet to avoid tracking that crap into the house. Sounds a little extreme, but once you read the msds sheets it really isn't.
 

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Last time I tried I had problems with the color matching and getting the paint/thinner mix right. I also had to put a lot more effort than I expected getting all traces of silicon off the surfaces to be painted.

Given the reliability of modern mechanical and electrical car components , painting is probably the most expensive repair/modification item most owners will ever face-it's a skill well worth having.
 

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Last time I tried I had problems with the color matching and getting the paint/thinner mix right. I also had to put a lot more effort than I expected getting all traces of silicon off the surfaces to be painted.

Given the reliability of modern mechanical and electrical car components , painting is probably the most expensive repair/modification item most owners will ever face-it's a skill well worth having.
If you're doing it yourself you have to accept the fact that you will never get the colour exactly matched. Its just not possible. You'll be buying a can of paint mixed to your paint code which will be very very close.

As for the thinner mix, yes it can be a pain to get it right. Check what the ratio is with the paint manufacturer. Usually 2:1 base to thinner. I found using a plastic shot glass to work well.

Getting it clean sucks. I start with a dry wipe and then a through cleaning with grease and wax remover. Once that dries out use tack cloths. Paint right after.

One big consideration is a clean area to paint. You can't do this outside and expect good results. I clean the crap out of my garage and cover everything in plastic to get rid of the dust since it's toxic. Staple sheets of thin plastic from the joists overhead and you have a decent but ghetto paint booth.

I do primer, base coat and clear coat all separately. I find I get better results that way. Usually 2-3 coats primer, light sand, clean with air and tack cloth. At least 3 coats of base, again clean with tack cloth. Then clear for 3 coats. Let it harden. After a couple days to cure it can be buffed to smooth it out.

Some fun things I learned: nitrile gloves are best. The chemicals will eat vinyl. Those litterily fell off my hands mid job. The chemicals will also eat some other plastics as well. An empty water bottle makes for a great waste paint disposal. For example, when you flush the gun with thinner after or any leftovers.

Your mask is insanely important. I can't stress enough on getting a good one that fits properly. You shouldn't smell a thing through it.if you do, it either needs new cartridges or doesn't fit right. The cartridges should be a combination P100/organic vapor.
 

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As far as New Genuine OEM parts goes, your most cost-effective option is tascaparts.com. If you're in the US, I believe they offer free shipping (or at least to the lower 48 states) as well.
Tascaparts is good. I also compare their prices to oemautopartz.com. They're out of California and generally shipping is $20, so if you buy one little washer, forget it. But if you spend a couple of hundred dollars, the discount typically more than makes up for the shipping cost.

Once I get the part number from either of those two sites, I check Amazon and see what of deals they have to offer.
 
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