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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Front ones

Has anyone replaced theirs and did you happen to come across oem and moog/mevo/dorman?

How has the experience been so far?
 

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I bought and installed the mevotech supremes, I had a slight issue with one of the bolt holes being a different size but that was totally my fault for assuming the European skyactiv d I have shared all parts of the North America gas versions. My old ones didn't even seem worn upon inspection after removing but the new ones felt great.
 

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I don’t know how helpful this information could be to you but on my 4Runner replacing the ball joints OEM come recommended (not moog as moog is well known as a excellent replacement in the aftermarket) and I’ve recently rebuilt the front suspension on a domestic full-size truck where moog was an excellent option along with non oem aftermarket to correct oem ball joint angles with a lift.
You can not go wrong with oem unless there is a known defect or you’re pushing your vehicle past what it was designed for and aftermarket (not designed like oem) is the better option.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I don’t know how helpful this information could be to you but on my 4Runner replacing the ball joints OEM come recommended (not moog as moog is well known as a excellent replacement in the aftermarket) and I’ve recently rebuilt the front suspension on a domestic full-size truck where moog was an excellent option along with non oem aftermarket to correct oem ball joint angles with a lift.
You can not go wrong with oem unless there is a known defect or you’re pushing your vehicle past what it was designed for and aftermarket (not designed like oem) is the better option.
how tight should new ball joint be? tight? really stiff? i came across a new control arm, the ball joint was really easy to manipulate... i passed on that one. just wondering if that matters?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
woops, double post
 

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All the ball joints I’ve come across are really stiff when new, when they are worn out then they move very easy and some will have play too. If you do bi annual or quarterly inspections on the chassis and drivetrain of your car, look at things like the rubber boots on ball joints and bushings, axle boots too, if you find one torn (axle boot) and change the boot before it starts clicking (the CV joint) it will last much longer. I find often times when boots break or rip lubrication is lost and it speeds up the wear process. In these lightweight cars suspension components are far easier to replace than larger vehicles and trucks. I find it enjoyable personally.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
is the control arm bolt really needing 175ft-lb of torque? there is a shorter one...i am abit of afraid to keep turning it pass 115... the other longs ones are at 150...
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
One more question... Ummm... The control arm mounting holes for the rear... Are they suppose to have plenty space or are they suppose to be snug? Precise drill for the bolt?
 

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