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Discussion Starter #1
Hey all,

New to the forums. I'm hoping someone can possibly point me in the right direction before paying nth number of diagnostics from dealers to figure out the issue i'm experiencing.

'10 Mazda 3 - When the car is cold, as I go to engage or disengage the clutch, more suddenly then slow, I get a squeak/squelch coming from what sounds like under the car, nearer the drivers side. This is NOT master or slave cylinders or the peddle itself. Definitely the engagement/disengagement of the clutch. After the car has warmed up for over 10 minutes, the sound is no longer reproducible until it cools again. Here is a video of the sound i hear. Sorry it's not very loud. This is after the car has been running for a few minutes. Any ideas?

 

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Discussion Starter #2
Sorry, try this youtube link youtu.be/SYA8Re3-LFY just add https:// infront - I can't seem to edit my post or post links which is absurd.
 

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I really can't make much out from that video, it just sounds like you pushing the clutch. Usually a noise from the clutch as you push the clutch is either the throw out bearing or sometimes the pilot bearing.

How many miles does the car have?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I'll see about getting some more videos but the car has 68k miles. My dad thought it might be the throw out bearing too but I wanted to get other opinions. If it is in the clutch housing, sounds like a big job?
 

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Demon Spawn
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I would say first try to lube the moving parts of the clutch pedal itself my 08 had a squeaky pedal and white lithium grease solved that, it can be had in a spray can at any parts store or wally world, liquid wrench brand makes the one I use religiously on door hinges and any moving item that needs lube but does not need to look pretty (their silicone spray would be the choice for parts that need lube but are visible). could just be a dry moving part in your pedal. One question which motor is in your car? 2.0 or 2.5? that will help as well as they both have different trannys in them, 2.0 is a 5 speed 2.5 is a 6 and their clutches are different (same size but slightly different parts) the 2.5 seems to have a few issues with clutches from 2010 (first year of this gen and 6 speeds in the n/a cars, my 08 was the 2.3 regular hatch and 5 speed manual) If you end up wanting/needing a replacement rockauto.com is a good bet exedy stage 1 are great choices, so is summit racing
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I appreciate the input, but as mentioned in my initial post, this is not the peddle. Could it be the engine mounts? I also got the noise this morning when i was simply accelerating very briefly pulling out of my drive way. Clutch was fully engaged. Here is a video from under the car when the clutch is quickly engaged.

 

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Demon Spawn
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yes that actually does sound familiar to me, does it also have rough engagement into a certain gear like 2nd? as in it takes a little more effort to push into the gate for that gear then normal? if so I would bet money your passenger motor mount has failed (under the coolant tank) this mount is notoriously weak on these models and fails rather annoyingly fast, the 1st gens (04-09s) where worse but these still do it.

all the motors (expect the speed) use the same rubber sections of the mounts from 04-13 the passenger bracket changed slightly from 04-09 to 10+ but the rubber inset part shows too be the same part (not the skyactiv or speed versions) to easily inspect that mount look at it, look for leaks that look like oil or power steering leaks but are right under and on that mount (it has hydraulic fluid in it) rips or tears in the rubber of the mount, or extremely soft rubber that collapses when you touch it (mine is currently in this stage and will need replacement soon, just kinda waiting till it gets worse, don't wanna use up my Saturday on this yet)

its easy to change though an air wrench or some strong might will help break the bolts free they are 17mm (all 4 the 2 nuts that mount it to the engine and 2 bolts that mount the u bracket to the frame) then if you buy just the insert and reuse the bracket the insert slides over a pole in the bracket and just rides there. then just bolt it back up, obviously you need to support the engine doing this a jack and a good block of wood help here, be careful and lift by the oil pan slowly using 2-3 people to help keep an eye on things helps as well. you don't need to lift much just enough to get the weight off the bolts/nuts and mount.

the drivers one is easy as well and should probably be done at the same time as the passenger (rubber rot and easier to jack the engine once) it is a "wishbone" type one under the engine (the one gearhd6 referred to right above me) the repair manual says to remove the air box and battery before doing this mount but I did it all underneath without removing anything else but the splash shield on my 08 2.3 and should be very similar on your car since the block and actual outer parts of the engine are fairly identical because the 2.0 2.3 and 2.5 are just bored and stroked different using the same block (though the drivers one rarely fails at lower miles, it is 7 years old now and rubber in the heat under the hood and outside in general will rot out especially at 7 years old) the passenger one absorbs most all the vibrations and shifting movement so a weak or fail mount there will make this more noticeable, there is a tranny mount but its stronger then the motor mounts seem to be and I never had any issues with it so it will probably be ok left alone

here is a youtube video that gives you an idea of where they should be (his is a 1st gen car but again uses same mounts so its the same thing) most of the time when you buy a new passenger ount you just get the rubber and have to reuse that bracket his broke out of (it just slides down and in) :

and I agree with gearhd6 the transmission moves way too much, what probably happened is your passenger failed and then the driver was doing all the work and over strained and has now failed too, so change them both.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Most of the videos i've watched regarding bad motor mounts, people have experienced or complained of vibrations. As far as my movement, is this also a common trait for bad passenger or rear mount even without the noise? I'll definitely be taking a look.
As for the transmission mount, that too will require a closer look as it would seem directly related to the amount of movement witnessed in the video. Here is a similar noise that the author of the video said the dealer claimed a TMM issue.


If I found out that none of my mount seals are broken and cracked, then it's more likely to be internal? You'll have to excuse my ignorance as I'm completely new to all this but finding it exciting to learn about cars more intimately.
 

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Demon Spawn
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the main mount that fails is "no3" motor mount in this diagram: http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/SU/supermechanic/2012-12-07_150125_mounts.jpg its under your coolant tank and it usually fails first, then the one labeled "no1 mount rubber" is doing all the work this one then fails and then you get odd vibrations and noises as well as the twist in the transmission in your video, if you have 2 people you can have your friend sit in the car and first let it idle and watch the motor it should vibrate slightly but not move around, then have him put the parking brake on all the way and put it in 1st and go up to 2-3k rpm and hold it while you watch the engine, you will probably see it lurch forward as he gives it gas and then buck up as he keeps going this is a sure sign these 2 mounts have failed. or if you do it by yourself get a video camera/cell phone and set it somewhere under the hood where it can watch the top of the motor, the middle bolt on the strut is a great place to prop a phone up so it can film the engine. then do as i said above then watch the video and if the engine lifts up and back down your mounts are shot. the other 2 mounts dont fail much so the "no1 rubber and no3" should be all you need to change. no2 is not shown, it is a plate on the bottom of the transmission that mounts to the frame, it just dampens vibration, and hardly fails, no4 is under the battery box and it is actually just a bracket with bolt holes, so it should not fail. (i looked at mine and did not see any rubber as the diagram states in this mount just a metal bracket.) it appears as though the no3 mount is only available at the dealer right now, they showed me the difference in the 04-09 ones and 10-13 ones and the 10-13 ones have slightly different sized holes for the studs and the the 04-09 mount will not fit on the 10-13 studs. the no1 mount rubber is available everywhere rock auto.com has it for $11.85 and this one is the same 04-13.
 
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