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My new-to-me '15 Touring 6-speed with 106K miles sometimes gets "stuck" or "hung up" shifting between gears. When it does, it can happen in any forward gear while moving. Releasing pressure off the shifter and trying again (without double clutching) solves it every time. The clutch does not seem to be slipping at all (and I've tried to make it slip). Starting from a stop, whether 1st or reverse, never presents a problem either. No shudder, no noise, no issues with the clutch pedal. I've driven manual shift cars on and off for years, and I never ham-fist the shifter or ride the clutch. I'm always aware of good habits...right down to slightly rolling through stop signs to reduce wear (when I can get away with it). As such, I always try to shift as smoothly as conditions permit. But the weird thing is, the smoother I try to shift this car, the more likely it is to be notchy. When I rev higher and shift harder, it tends to shift smooth every time! Anyone have any idea what's going on here? I realize that at 106K miles of unknown previous owner driving habits, my clutch may be at, or near, the end of it's life, but can anyone confirm this? I'm just not sure this is a clutch-related issue...
 

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I have a '15 Mazda 3 isport with about 40k on it, and I have those problems with shifting at times as well. And just like the conditions that you presented, when I rev higher and shift harder (basically be harder on the car) the problems go away. I wonder why this is.
 

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Slave cylinder; maybe, but master cylinder is for the brakes, no? Is this maybe just a characteristic of this car? I've never driven one before mine, so I can't tell. But like I mentioned, every other manual car I've driven, the smoother you shifted, the more you were rewarded with...well...smoothness.
 

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2015 Mazda3 S Grand Touring, 6spd Manual, Soul Red
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Mine is this way too, I’ve been told it’s normal, and thusfar have resisted the temptation to go have the dealer check it out. Only 4 months left on my warranty though, I probably should. Everyone I know that’s a hardcore Mazda enthusiast says that you have to drive them hard for them to act right. My old RX-7s had a similar shift with other people trying to drive them, but I never noticed it probably because I drove it like I stole it about 99% of the time.
 

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Other than the RX7 the common thing is we all have the C66M-R 'box. I have this too ('17 Mazda6). Gravelly feel into both 1st and 2nd. CAN make 1st to 2nd smooth by DELAYING, PAUSING the time... shifting into 2nd. Also, being more aggressive with shifting. Wondering if clutch is fully releasing. I will be exploring how clutch pedal freeplay is achieved in this hydraulic clutch set up (with auto-freeplay-adjust).
 

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I do notice that in very cold weather my clutch pedal seems to stick a tad it's not like I can't drive it, the pedal just has a brief hang up on return when I take my foot off. Little pop is all. It's nothing more than an annoyance at this point since it only occurs in extreme cold.

Thing is you'd think that after an hour of highway driving the heat of the interior and the engine bay would stop this. It doesn't. I'm wondering if I just need to lubricate the pedal hinges. I've been lazy on some things.

Only other issue I get is it doesn't always like to go into third if I'm shifting quickly under load. Tends to grind, but it's very occasional. I'm already running redline that I changed out about 50k kms ago. I've known other cars to be a little cranky with a particular gear. Not too worried. Might check out the shifter cables and bushings for wear in the spring.
 

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I do notice that in very cold weather my clutch pedal seems to stick a tad it's not like I can't drive it, the pedal just has a brief hang up on return when I take my foot off. Little pop is all. It's nothing more than an annoyance at this point since it only occurs in extreme cold.

Thing is you'd think that after an hour of highway driving the heat of the interior and the engine bay would stop this. It doesn't. I'm wondering if I just need to lubricate the pedal hinges. I've been lazy on some things.

Only other issue I get is it doesn't always like to go into third if I'm shifting quickly under load. Tends to grind, but it's very occasional. I'm already running redline that I changed out about 50k kms ago. I've known other cars to be a little cranky with a particular gear. Not too worried. Might check out the shifter cables and bushings for wear in the spring.
... and do the shift cable neutralization exercise, per the TSB...
 

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Notwithstanding the VIN range given, or the date of mfr... or even that it applies only to the Mazda3... still, the procedure is applicable. It is the general neutralization of the shift cables.

Please note that you must disassemble some interior pieces to gain access to this. I am attaching the centre console removal info for the Mazda6.... and I am quite sure there is a very similar one for the Mazda3... i.e. the screw under the cup holder. Also, if you go to the third generation set of "fiches" within the workshop manual, you will find all of the instructions on interior piece removal... They MAY have missed the screw under the cupholder, though. They did miss it on the Mazda6.

Last item, the "general arrangement" dwg is from the Mazda6 manual... but it will give you the gist of what is to be done.

I recommend that the shift cable neutralization be done in warm weather... when both the underhood and the cabin are as hot as possible. I say this, to ensure that the grease (if any, in the cable) is as low a viscosity as possible.
 

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Notwithstanding the VIN range given, or the date of mfr... or even that it applies only to the Mazda3... still, the procedure is applicable. It is the general neutralization of the shift cables.

Please note that you must disassemble some interior pieces to gain access to this. I am attaching the centre console removal info for the Mazda6.... and I am quite sure there is a very similar one for the Mazda3... i.e. the screw under the cup holder. Also, if you go to the third generation set of "fiches" within the workshop manual, you will find all of the instructions on interior piece removal... They MAY have missed the screw under the cupholder, though. They did miss it on the Mazda6.

Last item, the "general arrangement" dwg is from the Mazda6 manual... but it will give you the gist of what is to be done.

I recommend that the shift cable neutralization be done in warm weather... when both the underhood and the cabin are as hot as possible. I say this, to ensure that the grease (if any, in the cable) is as low a viscosity as possible.
Thanks for posting this. I was looking at a different similar TSB and was getting confused. That one talks of removing the transmission....
 

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2015 Mazda3 S Grand Touring, 6spd Manual, Soul Red
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Tried this and after the adjustment it was literally one thread of difference and made a substantial improvement on the shift feel. Shifting significantly smoother. Awesome!
 

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You mean something, kind of like this (or vice-versa)?
Yes, exactly like that. Moved only one thread.

Edit*
Quoted from another thread:
Did the adjustment again and this time with the bushings and the short-shifter (Corksport) installed it moved 3 more threads than before and WOW! It made a huge difference this time compared to the first! I’m so glad I did it. I was thinking it wouldn’t have much of an effect judging by the minimal effect it had the first time but it worked so much better afterwards.
 

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My new-to-me '15 Touring 6-speed with 106K miles sometimes gets "stuck" or "hung up" shifting between gears. When it does, it can happen in any forward gear while moving. Releasing pressure off the shifter and trying again (without double clutching) solves it every time. The clutch does not seem to be slipping at all (and I've tried to make it slip). Starting from a stop, whether 1st or reverse, never presents a problem either. No shudder, no noise, no issues with the clutch pedal. I've driven manual shift cars on and off for years, and I never ham-fist the shifter or ride the clutch. I'm always aware of good habits...right down to slightly rolling through stop signs to reduce wear (when I can get away with it). As such, I always try to shift as smoothly as conditions permit. But the weird thing is, the smoother I try to shift this car, the more likely it is to be notchy. When I rev higher and shift harder, it tends to shift smooth every time! Anyone have any idea what's going on here? I realize that at 106K miles of unknown previous owner driving habits, my clutch may be at, or near, the end of it's life, but can anyone confirm this? I'm just not sure this is a clutch-related issue...
I have similar problem with my 2016, mazda 3, 2.0L 165hp,6 speed manual gear, sometimes while shifting from 2nd to 3rd it wont “go” into 3rd gear, or from 4th to 3rd gear also, its just like there is something blocking inside gearbox shifts into 3rd, so I have to try have precise or right movement of gear stick while shifthing....and its very annoying and dangerous especially when I am driving on curvy road on a mountain, coz it will leave me in neutral position before taking turn on sharp curve...And it does make feel on hand that something is grinding inside, but there is no sound or noise... Does anyone know what could be a problem? I have only 60k km or around 40 miles. I had mazda 3, 1.6l 2007,for 5 years before this one and gear box was perfect, sharp, smooth,gear change was like trough butter so it was a bit of a surprise when I start noticing this on my new car! Any advice?
 
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