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Discussion Starter #1
Hi. I have the PAC line-out system to connect an amp to the stock head unit, a 2 channel amp, and component speakers. I am fairly confident that I can fit the speakers physically to the locations...for some reasons a lot of the guides seem to focus on the physical mounting disproportionately to the wiring of the system. Some basic questions--

1. I am probably going to find somewhere in the trunk to mount the amp. The RCA wires will probably come from the passenger side and the power through the driver side. Do I need to keep the speaker wires separate from the power wires, or just the RCA wires?

2. For the crossovers, I'm going to try to find somewhere under the dash to mount them. The doors don't have too much room for negotiations. If you have rather large external crossovers, where have you mounted them?

3. For the dash tweeter, it is very unclear how I am supposed to connect them to the crossovers. If I use the factory wires, it's no problem disconnecting the existing wires from the stock tweeter and wire them to the new aftermarket tweeters. However, where would I connect the new tweeters to the crossover?

4. I would like to run new wires for the speakers, as I believe the aftermarket parts will be of higher quality than the stock wires. In that case, how should I run the wires from the dash? Most cars seem to have the tweeters in the A pillar, which makes it fairly easy.

I've done a fair bit of digging around, so please, these questions may seem obvious but believe me I've searched deep into the internet with no satisfactory information.

Thank you!
 

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We broke out the old speakers and used the bracket (and oem plug) to install the new speakers front back and tweeter.
Do you plan to use the amp as power for the door speakers/tweeter? or just a sub.

1: Run them like that and you'll be fine
2: I put one near the PAC on the right side of the glove box void. The other is a pain to get your body into but there is plenty of room above the pedals.
3: The tweeters get full (range) signal directly from the head unit but we (buddy and I) used those as main input to the crossover and then ran a new wire to the door and to the new tweeter. You can get 10-14awg wire through the door plug as there is a hole in it in the top right corner after you pull back the rubber housing.
4: Amp in the trunk: pull the lower door trim on the passenger side (pulls right up) and you'll see the wiring channel, all of the surrounding interior trim is able to be pulled or lifted enough easily. You can hide the wires beginning at the side of the rear seats and then into the doors all the way up to the dash. Nobody will know the difference. I hid RCA and power in 20 mins.
5: make sure your amp has a remote power on, it will work with the PAC.
6: If you fold forward the back seats and lift up some of the velcro fabric you'll see some devices bolted down to the body, unbolt those and sand down the hole to expose bare metal so you can use it as a ground.

:: door wiring passthrough :: https://imgur.com/6C8RStz
 

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Discussion Starter #3
We broke out the old speakers and used the bracket (and oem plug) to install the new speakers front back and tweeter.
Do you plan to use the amp as power for the door speakers/tweeter? or just a sub.

1: Run them like that and you'll be fine
2: I put one near the PAC on the right side of the glove box void. The other is a pain to get your body into but there is plenty of room above the pedals.
3: The tweeters get full (range) signal directly from the head unit but we (buddy and I) used those as main input to the crossover and then ran a new wire to the door and to the new tweeter. You can get 10-14awg wire through the door plug as there is a hole in it in the top right corner after you pull back the rubber housing.
I will be using them to power the door speakers. Not adding a sub for now.
So for the tweeters, you managed to get new wires onto the tweeter location? I just want to make sure it's not too difficult to find where the wire goes from the dash to wherever I'll be mounting the crossover.

5: make sure your amp has a remote power on, it will work with the PAC.
6: If you fold forward the back seats and lift up some of the velcro fabric you'll see some devices bolted down to the body, unbolt those and sand down the hole to expose bare metal so you can use it as a ground.
I think the PAC device does have remote power-on. I'll be sure to plug that in and get a good ground wire in where you've suggested. Thanks!
 

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I will be using them to power the door speakers. Not adding a sub for now.
So for the tweeters, you managed to get new wires onto the tweeter location? I just want to make sure it's not too difficult to find where the wire goes from the dash to wherever I'll be mounting the crossover.



I think the PAC device does have remote power-on. I'll be sure to plug that in and get a good ground wire in where you've suggested. Thanks!
When you get a chance pop off the tweeter grills (easy, flathead or trim tool) get on your back and look straight up you will see light. It's very easy to see from underneath, just a PITA. Alternatively for wiring you can pull from the top to unhook the stock plug and tuck it somewhere since you won't be using stock wiring anymore (I assume 1CH input to crossover, then separate between tweeter/door with new wiring). And all from the top just lower the wiring and new tweeter into place, it should be in a spot where you can grab it low and hook it up.

PAC does have remote power on wire (blue), you just gotta put it in the slot on the amp.

There is a lot of room for a crossover, it's just an awkward environment to work in.

Sound deadening material in the doors will greatly improve sound quality (as you can see in the pics from the other thread you posted on). I used Noico 80 mil. A lot cheaper than dynamat and other competitors and just as good.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
When you get a chance pop off the tweeter grills (easy, flathead or trim tool) get on your back and look straight up you will see light. It's very easy to see from underneath, just a PITA. Alternatively for wiring you can pull from the top to unhook the stock plug and tuck it somewhere since you won't be using stock wiring anymore (I assume 1CH input to crossover, then separate between tweeter/door with new wiring). And all from the top just lower the wiring and new tweeter into place, it should be in a spot where you can grab it low and hook it up.
That makes a lot of sense. I'll be sure to have a flash light handy..too hot in the day to work on anything.
It's not a crazy crossover system. There's just the +/- connections for each of the input, tweeters, and woofers.

Sound deadening material in the doors will greatly improve sound quality (as you can see in the pics from the other thread you posted on). I used Noico 80 mil. A lot cheaper than dynamat and other competitors and just as good.
I've already done a fair share of sound deadening. Noico 80 mil, closed cell foam, and mass loaded vinyl. Did the front wheel arches and the front doors. They close with a more satisfying 'thunk'. I really wish I could get the rocker panels somehow. Whenever I hit a bit of gravel on the road, it still sounds like a tin can. For now it's adequte for 80% of the roads I drive on.

Did you use any of those foam speaker baffles?
 

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That makes a lot of sense. I'll be sure to have a flash light handy..too hot in the day to work on anything.
It's not a crazy crossover system. There's just the +/- connections for each of the input, tweeters, and woofers.



I've already done a fair share of sound deadening. Noico 80 mil, closed cell foam, and mass loaded vinyl. Did the front wheel arches and the front doors. They close with a more satisfying 'thunk'. I really wish I could get the rocker panels somehow. Whenever I hit a bit of gravel on the road, it still sounds like a tin can. For now it's adequte for 80% of the roads I drive on.

Did you use any of those foam speaker baffles?
You'll see light easily, it's all pretty open and a straight shot.

Haven't tried the foam baffles.

The car feels more premium with everything deadened and solid. I haven't done my 18 yet. Ordering it this week.

Doors, trunk floor (under the spare too), and decklid. If I have some leftover I guess I could do wheel arches too.
 
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