In Slovakia the almost top model of M3 (all features except leather and AFS) has at least drivers switch lit up.. than it is up to your imagination to find the remaining buttons 
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Non-Lit Power Window/Door Lock Switches
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There were a and still are 3 versions of M3's in Europe (Talking about Poland and UK, no idea how it is in rest of EU). Looking from basic to full option we have SE, SE-L, Sport in UK and SkyMOTION, SkyENERGY, SkyPASSION in PL. All of those had only 1 window switch illuminated on driver side at least to beginning of 2016. Maybe that has changed in last year before facelift - no idea.
But at least Sport and SkyPASSION with new interior have all switches illuminated for all doors as I've had driven these. I suspect that all facelifts without MZD system are still same in the inside as prelifts and versions with MZD are benefited with electronic handbrake, new center console (which looks brilliant) and illuminated switches.
In America you got much more wariants for the unknown (at least for me) reason. But 2.5L is not available in EU which is a real shame
But return on the subject - great job Chazzy J, it finally is as it should be at first place. Looking for a tutorial in How-to section
Alright, so update:
When I began this project, I had ordered 4000k SMB LED as seen here: https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/surface-mount-smd/little-dot-smd-led-accent-light/639/
They're perfect for the job because the wires turn into a ribbon which makes it a perfect squeeze into the electrical components.
So as I said previously, the 4000k lights had a small tinge of yellow to them. So immediately I went and ordered the 6000k SMD LEDs. As you can see from the link, they're surface mounted. Very good adhesive too. In fact, so good, that once it goes on and you press it down, it ain't coming back off (it can, but you won't be able to re-use it w/o some glue). So as I started mounting these to my donor board, I noticed that a crucial part of the process is the refraction of light and how it disperses itself. The lock/unlock button was designed to have a light and the light is able to disperse itself evenly all the way through the channel. The door switches are a little different, there's not a "defined channel" for the light to disperse to the top. So in essence, the lock/unlock button lights up WAY brighter than the window switches do.
Obviously, this is not ok with me. So last night I tried some different locations for the SMB LED to be mounted to (I use standard scotch tape to hold it in place -- like I said, you really only get to use the adhesive once...). I finally got the dispersion of light to appear equal on the lock/unlock button vs. the window buttons.
So again, this is my donor board (powered by a simple 9V battery), so I've only got one spare window switch to play with, but you'll get the idea. Below are the comparison images (sideways, again! Arrggh!). The lit image is basically so you know what you're looking at. Then with the lights turned out, you can see that the color match and light dispersion is darn near perfect! Ta-Da!
So my only remaining concern is when I take the actual piece out of my car and install the LEDs, will the machine screw I used for the transplant disperse the light different and then the window switches won't appear to be lit an equal amount on all 4 switches if the light disperses slightly differently on each switch? We'll find out -- I do have a backup plan to potentially remedy this if needed. Probably won't be able to put it all together until this weekend. But hopefully I'll have a completed product by the end of the weekend. It's gotta be perfect though. I'm not making a how-to guide unless this thing is perfect and looks OEM! Which I'm pretty sure it's going to!
Almost there! Exciting!!
When I began this project, I had ordered 4000k SMB LED as seen here: https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/surface-mount-smd/little-dot-smd-led-accent-light/639/
They're perfect for the job because the wires turn into a ribbon which makes it a perfect squeeze into the electrical components.
So as I said previously, the 4000k lights had a small tinge of yellow to them. So immediately I went and ordered the 6000k SMD LEDs. As you can see from the link, they're surface mounted. Very good adhesive too. In fact, so good, that once it goes on and you press it down, it ain't coming back off (it can, but you won't be able to re-use it w/o some glue). So as I started mounting these to my donor board, I noticed that a crucial part of the process is the refraction of light and how it disperses itself. The lock/unlock button was designed to have a light and the light is able to disperse itself evenly all the way through the channel. The door switches are a little different, there's not a "defined channel" for the light to disperse to the top. So in essence, the lock/unlock button lights up WAY brighter than the window switches do.
Obviously, this is not ok with me. So last night I tried some different locations for the SMB LED to be mounted to (I use standard scotch tape to hold it in place -- like I said, you really only get to use the adhesive once...). I finally got the dispersion of light to appear equal on the lock/unlock button vs. the window buttons.
So again, this is my donor board (powered by a simple 9V battery), so I've only got one spare window switch to play with, but you'll get the idea. Below are the comparison images (sideways, again! Arrggh!). The lit image is basically so you know what you're looking at. Then with the lights turned out, you can see that the color match and light dispersion is darn near perfect! Ta-Da!
So my only remaining concern is when I take the actual piece out of my car and install the LEDs, will the machine screw I used for the transplant disperse the light different and then the window switches won't appear to be lit an equal amount on all 4 switches if the light disperses slightly differently on each switch? We'll find out -- I do have a backup plan to potentially remedy this if needed. Probably won't be able to put it all together until this weekend. But hopefully I'll have a completed product by the end of the weekend. It's gotta be perfect though. I'm not making a how-to guide unless this thing is perfect and looks OEM! Which I'm pretty sure it's going to!
Almost there! Exciting!!
Attachments
That'll for sure work. It just means that the LEDs will always be on as long as the car is on. Unless that's how it is OEM and we just can't tell due to the color of the switch printing and ambient light...
The pin 1F on this diagram makes me wonder what it is - as it doesn't show it connected to anything and it's only on the driver's side switch diagram (the only one with a light in your car) and not the other 3 switches. I'm wondering if that's an illumination control wire from the RBCM to the control panel.
I haven't been able to find where pin 3D is on the RBCM or what it does though in the little time I've had to take a look.
First I'd check if the LED is on all the time, even if the headlights are off. If it is carry on as you planned.
If the LED turns on and off with interior illumination I would test pin 1F at the window switch for voltage when the lights are turned on and off to see if that's the control wire.
The pin 1F on this diagram makes me wonder what it is - as it doesn't show it connected to anything and it's only on the driver's side switch diagram (the only one with a light in your car) and not the other 3 switches. I'm wondering if that's an illumination control wire from the RBCM to the control panel.
I haven't been able to find where pin 3D is on the RBCM or what it does though in the little time I've had to take a look.
First I'd check if the LED is on all the time, even if the headlights are off. If it is carry on as you planned.
If the LED turns on and off with interior illumination I would test pin 1F at the window switch for voltage when the lights are turned on and off to see if that's the control wire.
Attachments
Here it is guys. The finished product. First pic is non lit, second pic is lit in the light, third pic is lit in dim light.
I replaced the drivers side switch with one that didn't say "auto" on it. I think it looks a little cleaner.
Just waiting on USPS to deliver my t-tap connectors and it'll be installed in the car. We can bring this project to a close!
And no, the lock/unlock button is not blue as shown in the second pic. No idea why my camera did that. The 3rd pic does have accurate colors
I replaced the drivers side switch with one that didn't say "auto" on it. I think it looks a little cleaner.
Just waiting on USPS to deliver my t-tap connectors and it'll be installed in the car. We can bring this project to a close!
And no, the lock/unlock button is not blue as shown in the second pic. No idea why my camera did that. The 3rd pic does have accurate colors
Attachments
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