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Discussion Starter #1
I installed some 6.5" Polk dxi651 on my 14' iTouring with the non-bose system and they have less bass than the stock speakers.

I'm not great at soldering, but they seem to produce sound -- I'm just wondering if I screwed something up installing them or these speakers kind of suck or they really need an external amp?

I saw a few other people bought these and am pretty sure I followed the correct polarity (positive towards the engine on each side).

I'd love some input.
 

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I installed some 6.5" Polk dxi651 on my 14' iTouring with the non-bose system and they have less bass than the stock speakers.

I'm not great at soldering, but they seem to produce sound -- I'm just wondering if I screwed something up installing them or these speakers kind of suck or they really need an external amp?

I saw a few other people bought these and am pretty sure I followed the correct polarity (positive towards the engine on each side).

I'd love some input.
You're going to need a dedicated amp if the power draw from the sub is over what the stock rated amp can output. I haven't touched my sound system, but I doubt it could handle aftermarket subs. You'll want an amp that'll have 3 wires - one to the positive, one grounded, and one to the accessory wire so it doesn't drain the battery while the car is off.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I don't have any subs, I'm more trying to fix the speakers sounding weak part. I just don't know if an amplifier will fix that issue.
 

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I don't have any subs, I'm more trying to fix the speakers sounding weak part. I just don't know if an amplifier will fix that issue.
Did you install it in the front doors? I think that's where the sub speakers are (they are for the bose system, I would assume the same for the non-bose system too because the bass feels right beside me in the car)
 

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I installed some 6.5" Polk dxi651 on my 14' iTouring with the non-bose system and they have less bass than the stock speakers.
I'd love some input.

Polk speakers are pretty well regarded in their price range. Your problem is likely to be that the stock amp isn't powerful enough to power them.

another possibility is that you don't have them in phase and they're cancelling each other out to a degree.
 

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from all my previous vehicles. the factory speakers had more bass (more but, muddy). Most aftermarket speakers have tight suspensions to handle more power that people send to them.
Make sure there are no holes around your speakers and the door the front and rear of the speaker need to be isolated so not to cancel out sound transmitted.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Polk speakers are pretty well regarded in their price range. Your problem is likely to be that the stock amp isn't powerful enough to power them.

another possibility is that you don't have them in phase and they're cancelling each other out to a degree.
I'm pretty sure this is what's happening. Way better highs than stock, but no mid-range or bass. I guess I'll go the amp route.
 

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I'm pretty sure this is what's happening. Way better highs than stock, but no mid-range or bass. I guess I'll go the amp route.
I am guessing that the speakers are not sealed to the frame of the door. I have read in other post that the door surface is not flat and that modifications have to be made to get the speakers to seal. (No gaps between the speaker frame and the door frame) No speaker will produce any decent bass without being sealed.
 

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just installed CDT speakers in all 4 doors of my 2014 mazda 3. has plenty of bass. door and addapters are sealed with dynamat and cocking tape from home depot. also made sure my polarity was correct.
I'll post in detail later about my project. It got out of hand... JBL MS8, 5 channel amp, CDT speakers, Cerwin Vega 10" subwoofer.
 

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oh yeah. I'm still running off the headunit still for the door speakers, havent hooked up everything yet. I actually feel there is to much bass! I beleve there is factory EQ on the non bose head unit the bass is a bit heavy.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I feel like the front is seal pretty well. I used the foam included with the speakers on the surround and hot glued it to the surrounding metal portion of the speaker.

The back speakers, however, might not be as sealed since they were smaller than the factory opening so I rigged it using the outer grill.
 

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Those polk coax are sensitive enough at 92db so it should play ok with any hu powered system or stock amp.

Those coax are mainly designed as drop in replacement speakers anyway, so they dont really need that much power.

Essentially to increase mid bass freq from your doors, you either:
1. Deaden your doors (even with stock speakers, i guarantee you will hear more)
2. Replace stock speaker with dedicated 2 or 3 way speakers and NOT coax speakers
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I ordered some Dynamat -- so I'm going to start with that. Do you think I'd hear more mid range/bass with a small amp? I was thinking of an Alpine MRV-F300 (4x50w) or Alpine KTP-445U.

I'd really hate to buy more speakers.

Those polk coax are sensitive enough at 92db so it should play ok with any hu powered system or stock amp.

Those coax are mainly designed as drop in replacement speakers anyway, so they dont really need that much power.

Essentially to increase mid bass freq from your doors, you either:
1. Deaden your doors (even with stock speakers, i guarantee you will hear more)
2. Replace stock speaker with dedicated 2 or 3 way speakers and NOT coax speakers
 

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Need to confirm that the new speakers have the same ohm rating as the factory ones. This is critical to sound output. You cannot place 4 ohm speakers on a system designed for 2 ohm speakers. The sound output will be cut in half

Don
 

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I ordered some Dynamat -- so I'm going to start with that. Do you think I'd hear more mid range/bass with a small amp? I was thinking of an Alpine MRV-F300 (4x50w) or Alpine KTP-445U.

I'd really hate to buy more speakers.
Yup more power the better, typically hu internal amp is rated at 20w rms per channel, 50w rms from an amp should be a big jump too
 
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