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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
hey everyone im nick, new to the forum world and the tuner world and i need a bit of help/ ideas
i have a 2004 mazda 3I, i put a CAI on it and know the stock MAF dosent compensate for how much more air is coming in and dosent add the proper amount of fuel. id like to get an aftermarket MAF but dont know what one to buy or if they will even work, id also like to add a chip to it((if those even work)). i originally was going to take it to an aftermarket shop and have them tune it but both shops near me dont tune mazdas

i appreciate any help thx
 

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hey everyone im nick, new to the forum world and the tuner world and i need a bit of help/ ideas
i have a 2004 mazda 3I, i put a CAI on it and know the stock MAF dosent compensate for how much more air is coming in and dosent add the proper amount of fuel. id like to get an aftermarket MAF but dont know what one to buy or if they will even work, id also like to add a chip to it((if those even work)). i originally was going to take it to an aftermarket shop and have them tune it but both shops near me dont tune mazdas

i appreciate any help thx
Don't waste your time. The aftermarket intake makes very little difference in air flow, and certainly not enough difference so that the ECU can't compensate.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Don't waste your time. The aftermarket intake makes very little difference in air flow, and certainly not enough difference so that the ECU can't compensate.
it makes a huge difference in airflow. the stock intake opening is only 1.5" wide and 3" tall. the aftermarket intake is a round 3" diameter pipe. the flow is far smoother as well. there was such a drastic change in the amount of air coming in that it killed both my O2 sensors, and my car is running lean because it cannot add enough fuel
 

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it makes a huge difference in airflow. the stock intake opening is only 1.5" wide and 3" tall. the aftermarket intake is a round 3" diameter pipe. the flow is far smoother as well. there was such a drastic change in the amount of air coming in that it killed both my O2 sensors, and my car is running lean because it cannot add enough fuel


:laughing019:​
 

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it makes a huge difference in airflow. the stock intake opening is only 1.5" wide and 3" tall. the aftermarket intake is a round 3" diameter pipe.
Non-sequitur.
A larger pipe does not translate to more air going into the engine. A 3" pipe may be able to flow more air than a pipe half its size, but the engine can't draw enough air to take advantage of this.
Any engine will only draw so much air. This is determined by such things as numbers of pistons, piston displacement, valve size, valve lift and duration, and the size of the throttle plate. Putting a 3" pipe on does not mean the engine will draw more air. The only way to increase the amount of air past the point that it can draw by mechanical means is through forced induction. Some cars benefit slightly by replacing restrictive intake boxes by more free flowing parts but there is never an increase that results in more than the ECU can handle.

there was such a drastic change in the amount of air coming in that it killed both my O2 sensors, and my car is running lean because it cannot add enough fuel
Yeah, right...........:laughing001:
The problem is that your intake just doesn't work. The MAF sensor is calibrated for a certain diameter intake tube that presents predetermined airflow characteristics. The sensor relies on those characteristics to determine the mass of the air flowing past it. Putting on a huge pipe will cause the air flow velocity to drop significantly while allowing volume to remain the same, causing the MAF to provide air flow rate numbers that are way too low at any given rpm. The ECU will then provide only enough fuel for the airflow rate reported. As the mass air flow rate reported is much lower than actual airflow, a lean condition is created. This is why your car is not running right.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Non-sequitur.
A larger pipe does not translate to more air going into the engine. A 3" pipe may be able to flow more air than a pipe half its size, but the engine can't draw enough air to take advantage of this.
Any engine will only draw so much air. This is determined by such things as numbers of pistons, piston displacement, valve size, valve lift and duration, and the size of the throttle plate. Putting a 3" pipe on does not mean the engine will draw more air. The only way to increase the amount of air past the point that it can draw by mechanical means is through forced induction. Some cars benefit slightly by replacing restrictive intake boxes by more free flowing parts but there is never an increase that results in more than the ECU can handle.



Yeah, right...........:laughing001:
The problem is that your intake just doesn't work. The MAF sensor is calibrated for a certain diameter intake tube that presents predetermined airflow characteristics. The sensor relies on those characteristics to determine the mass of the air flowing past it. Putting on a huge pipe will cause the air flow velocity to drop significantly while allowing volume to remain the same, causing the MAF to provide air flow rate numbers that are way too low at any given rpm. The ECU will then provide only enough fuel for the airflow rate reported. As the mass air flow rate reported is much lower than actual airflow, a lean condition is created. This is why your car is not running right.
my car is running fine. i have 2 codes for O2 sensors that came on the day after i installed the intake. checked all the symptoms that would normally cause the codes and there was no problem. i replaced one of the sensors. regardless i still want more power and id like to know what would actually work. i dont have money for a turbo kit or the header to mount said turbo, unless anyone knows a reliable ebay kit for my engine
 

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Myself and alot of other members have had good experiences with Orange Virus Tuning. I added a Racing Beat exhaust to my car and then had the car tuned by OV for around $600 total (hardware and custom tune). The tune is a 93 octane tune, but he can also work with 87 octane as well. It provides a boost to the way the car accelerates, much of it coming from a better torque curve in the low end .That said you can also request a tune specifically for top end horsepower - i didn't since it's my daily driver. I've not dyno'd my car (others have), but I have clocked it at 0-60 a half second quicker than stock. You can feel the grunt on the interstate in 6th gear - no downshift required (even if prudent anyway)

Edit: Nevermind, i'm talking about a completely different car, did not see your model year.
 

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my car is running fine. i have 2 codes for O2 sensors that came on the day after i installed the intake. checked all the symptoms that would normally cause the codes and there was no problem. i replaced one of the sensors. regardless i still want more power and id like to know what would actually work. i dont have money for a turbo kit or the header to mount said turbo, unless anyone knows a reliable ebay kit for my engine
You have 2 codes generated by the O2 sensors that started when you put that intake on. Its not running right if the check engine light is on. Replacing the O2 sensors won't fix it because its not a problem with those sensors. The car is running lean because that intake is screwing up the ECU. Keep running it that way and you are going to burn up the motor.

Myself and alot of other members have had good experiences with Orange Virus Tuning. I added a Racing Beat exhaust to my car and then had the car tuned by OV for around $600 total (hardware and custom tune). The tune is a 93 octane tune, but he can also work with 87 octane as well. It provides a boost to the way the car accelerates, much of it coming from a better torque curve in the low end .That said you can also request a tune specifically for top end horsepower - i didn't since it's my daily driver. I've not dyno'd my car (others have), but I have clocked it at 0-60 a half second quicker than stock. You can feel the grunt on the interstate in 6th gear - no downshift required (even if prudent anyway)
There is not much in the way of tuner parts for old 1st gen Mazda 3s. There are basic things like a header, exhaust, maybe some cams. I don't think many people do tunes for them or if its even possible. The OP seems to want big power for no money. Unfortunately, real hp gains cost real money and don't come from bolt-on ricer mods.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
You have 2 codes generated by the O2 sensors that started when you put that intake on. Its not running right if the check engine light is on. Replacing the O2 sensors won't fix it because its not a problem with those sensors. The car is running lean because that intake is screwing up the ECU. Keep running it that way and you are going to burn up the motor.



There is not much in the way of tuner parts for old 1st gen Mazda 3s. There are basic things like a header, exhaust, maybe some cams. I don't think many people do tunes for them or if its even possible. The OP seems to want big power for no money. Unfortunately, real hp gains cost real money and don't come from bolt-on ricer mods.
ive put my car on a snapon and driven it with someone watching my fuel trims, its not running lean enough to harm anything, its just enough to throw the codes. i replaced one of the O2 sensors and the code for the one i replaced was gone. and i dont have alot of money to spend on this car since its my daily driver. i just want some more power to make it more fun. id like to gain 50whp if possible
 

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ive put my car on a snapon and driven it with someone watching my fuel trims, its not running lean enough to harm anything, its just enough to throw the codes. i replaced one of the O2 sensors and the code for the one i replaced was gone. and i dont have alot of money to spend on this car since its my daily driver. i just want some more power to make it more fun. id like to gain 50whp if possible
Don't look at fuel trims, look at the AFRs from the upstream O2 sensor. There are different AFRs generated by the various sensors. The MAF/MAP are for predicted or commanded AFRs, or what the ECU says the AFR should be for any given airflow or throttle position. The upstream O2 sensor(usually bank1) generates real time actual AFR numbers. Those AFR numbers are what generally create MIL codes.

50 whp is more than a bit unrealistic without throwing a ton of money at it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Don't look at fuel trims, look at the AFRs from the upstream O2 sensor. There are different AFRs generated by the various sensors. The MAF/MAP are for predicted or commanded AFRs, or what the ECU says the AFR should be for any given airflow or throttle position. The upstream O2 sensor(usually bank1) generates real time actual AFR numbers. Those AFR numbers are what generally create MIL codes.

50 whp is more than a bit unrealistic without throwing a ton of money at it.
yeah ik. i wish i could have found a speed3 but the 3i is all i had the money for
 

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Yeah, that 50 ponies will cost you. Save the momey you won't spend on gas, then buy something faster.

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Yeah, that 50 ponies will cost you. Save the momey you won't spend on gas, then buy something faster.

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oh i am already. im going to have a supercharged 08 mustang gt with 600whp. but im still going to have the mazda since its a daily driver. cant i get a tune or an ebay turbo kit or something for 500$ or less?
 

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oh i am already. im going to have a supercharged 08 mustang gt with 600whp. but im still going to have the mazda since its a daily driver. cant i get a tune or an ebay turbo kit or something for 500$ or less?
Nope. OVT has a tune for your car, but it only makes like 15 hp for close to $600.
 
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