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Not having driven a Cayman 718 I can only imagine what it drives like (though I'm told the turbo-4 doesn't come close, in sound, to any of the opposed sixes). Big difference, there, re utility (tho for a 2 seater the Cayman is pretty good). The 2.5 / 6 spd manual in the 3 is "agricultural" by way of smoothness, sound, shift quality (into first and second gear) compared to some cars I own or have driven... but the 3 and the 6 are cheap to keep on the road.
 

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Having said the above, I feel that there are fewer and fewer "enthusiast" cars out there, if you want a manual transmission/transaxle... so kudos to Mazda for at least having some...
 

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Yeah, ideally I should get new endlinks just because I'm lowering the car. Honestly just don't really feel like it because I don't see any that really tickle my fancy. Will I run into any binding or parts clashing with the stock endlinks and H&R springs? I know the geometry will be off, and therefore will introduce more load into the endlinks, but honestly the stock bars are so weak I don't think it will cause any issues strength-wise. Maybe I'm wrong, though, and should get new endlinks now.
Well, actually, I had a couple issues with the end of bar tapping on the underside of the car at full compression. I had to shorten the links a bit to prevent that.
You also need to realign the bar to make it work properly. Its not so much about how strong the links are, its about how the bar moves when the suspension is moving. A mis-aligned bar can pull on the bar mount brackets enough to stretch or loosen them, causing an annoying tap tap sound and eventually may cause the brackets to fail.


Do you happen to know if the Progress bar is tubular? I like tubular bars because they are lighter than solid bar with about the same stiffness.
Tubular, no, they are solid. On this car I doubt a couple extra ounces will make a difference though....
Between the springs and the rear bar, body roll is reduced quite a bit. if you are going to really push the car, you might want to install a larger front bar also. A bigger rear bar alone can induce some snap oversteer at the limit, and a larger front bar helps prevent this. Its nowhere near as easy to install and for "normal" street driving you probably don't need to upgrade, but just in case......


Truth be told, I'm getting a little tired of this car, as this car is getting a bit tired. Haha maybe it is a bit tired of me. It has about 105k miles now, and it is starting to feel like it. I am hoping new springs and shocks will help this out a lot. The car just feels heavy...kinda hard to explain.
The factory shocks at 105k are about 60k past expiration.....A set of Koni Special Actives will fix that right up.
105k is not a lot for this engine. If it feels a bit sluggish, it might need to have the intake valves cleaned. It doesn't seem to happen often on the Skyactive motors, but direct injection car are susceptible to carbon deposits forming on the valves, reducing engine performance. Its not a huge thing to clean them, do a forum search here and you should find a numbers of threads on this.
You might want to look into a tune also. A good tune will get you ~25 or 30 hp. Doesn't sound like a lot but the area under the curve is increased significantly and the car feels completely different.
 

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If youre still on stock susp at 105k, thats your issue. They dont have to leak to be bad. Industry standard is to replace around 50k.
Right, that's why I'm swapping the shocks/struts and springs. It would already be done if it weren't for placing the order through Summit Racing :mad:

Strangely...the car doesn't feel like the struts or shocks are worn out, I know how that feels. Regardless, I am betting that the Koni SA Reds will help this car a ton.

Not having driven a Cayman 718 I can only imagine what it drives like (though I'm told the turbo-4 doesn't come close, in sound, to any of the opposed sixes). Big difference, there, re utility (tho for a 2 seater the Cayman is pretty good). The 2.5 / 6 spd manual in the 3 is "agricultural" by way of smoothness, sound, shift quality (into first and second gear) compared to some cars I own or have driven... but the 3 and the 6 are cheap to keep on the road.
Really, this Mazda 3 shifts quite well for a FWD car. In terms of smoothness, I think it is just fine. It does feel like it may have a clutch delay valve though...and it feels like the clutch and flywheel is quite heavy... I'd guess 30lbs lol. My biggest complaint is that the motor mounts seem way too soft and it allows the engine/trans to bounce around when shifting. I'm starting to think that every manual Mazda out there has motor mounts that are too soft...it's fine for the automatic transmission...but you can feel the floppiness with a manual trans.

Well, actually, I had a couple issues with the end of bar tapping on the underside of the car at full compression. I had to shorten the links a bit to prevent that.
You also need to realign the bar to make it work properly. Its not so much about how strong the links are, its about how the bar moves when the suspension is moving. A mis-aligned bar can pull on the bar mount brackets enough to stretch or loosen them, causing an annoying tap tap sound and eventually may cause the brackets to fail.

Tubular, no, they are solid. On this car I doubt a couple extra ounces will make a difference though....
Between the springs and the rear bar, body roll is reduced quite a bit. if you are going to really push the car, you might want to install a larger front bar also. A bigger rear bar alone can induce some snap oversteer at the limit, and a larger front bar helps prevent this. Its nowhere near as easy to install and for "normal" street driving you probably don't need to upgrade, but just in case......
Okay, so you did have some parts clashing due to the changed geometry. So that makes new endlinks a necessity. I know that the bad geometry puts more axial and side load on all the attachment points, it's just usually that in any system, the links are almost always the weak link by design.

A tubular bar doesn't usually save ounces, it save pounds. But yes, it probably won't make enough difference to feel. Tubular bars are just more efficient. A well designed tubular bar can be 300% stiffer (or more) than a factory bar and be the about the same weight or even lighter. Being partially unsprung weight, this makes a bigger difference than a lot of other weight reductions such as exhaust. You already know this, I'm posting this for those who don't.

The factory shocks at 105k are about 60k past expiration.....A set of Koni Special Actives will fix that right up.
105k is not a lot for this engine. If it feels a bit sluggish, it might need to have the intake valves cleaned. It doesn't seem to happen often on the Skyactive motors, but direct injection car are susceptible to carbon deposits forming on the valves, reducing engine performance. Its not a huge thing to clean them, do a forum search here and you should find a numbers of threads on this.
You might want to look into a tune also. A good tune will get you ~25 or 30 hp. Doesn't sound like a lot but the area under the curve is increased significantly and the car feels completely different.
I am actually not sure these are the original shocks. I bought this car with 80k on it, they may have replaced them before I bought it, but there was almost no service records so it's difficult to know.

One thing is for sure, I don't plan on checking out my intake valves unless I feel they actually NEED a cleaning, if the car starts having issues idling or running kinda rough. Ignorance is bliss...haha.

When I first bought the car, I was really wanting a tune. Now, I don't think I'll bother unless the cost is much cheaper than it was when I first looked into it. Is it still about $600? I know 20+HP is very good for $600, but we have a lot of medical bills and household upgrades that I want more. Maybe it will be worth it come income tax time, do you guys have any idea how much it costs to tune a second car after you've already done one? If we tuned my wife's Mazda 3 (2017 2.0L auto) as well, that may make more sense. I wonder if anyone on this forum would be willing to share whatever hardware is needed for the tuning process? Or is it just a cable, and most of the cost is software licenses and paying for the tuner's services?
 

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Okay, so you did have some parts clashing due to the changed geometry. So that makes new endlinks a necessity. I know that the bad geometry puts more axial and side load on all the attachment points, it's just usually that in any system, the links are almost always the weak link by design.
Yes, and in the case of the Mazda 3, the links are really weak. They are held together by 4 plastic bits and are a known failure point....



When I first bought the car, I was really wanting a tune. Now, I don't think I'll bother unless the cost is much cheaper than it was when I first looked into it. Is it still about $600? I know 20+HP is very good for $600, but we have a lot of medical bills and household upgrades that I want more. Maybe it will be worth it come income tax time, do you guys have any idea how much it costs to tune a second car after you've already done one? If we tuned my wife's Mazda 3 (2017 2.0L auto) as well, that may make more sense. I wonder if anyone on this forum would be willing to share whatever hardware is needed for the tuning process? Or is it just a cable, and most of the cost is software licenses and paying for the tuner's services?
The cost depends on the tuner, you'd need to ask around. With OVT, you need to supply the digital device keys for the Tactrix port, a hardware fingerprint for your computer and your VIN number to register the MazdaEdit software as your individual tune is locked to your car and any software is registered to your computer.
My tune was about $500, that included the software licence and Tactrix for accessing the ECU through the OBD port.
If you know somebody who knows the ins and out of the SA-G engine, all you need is a means of access and the full content MazdaEdit or some other means of reflashing the ECU. There aren't many tuners who actually tune the Mazda 3 though.
 

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The cost depends on the tuner, you'd need to ask around. With OVT, you need to supply the digital device keys for the Tactrix port, a hardware fingerprint for your computer and your VIN number to register the MazdaEdit software as your individual tune is locked to your car and any software is registered to your computer.
My tune was about $500, that included the software licence and Tactrix for accessing the ECU through the OBD port.
If you know somebody who knows the ins and out of the SA-G engine, all you need is a means of access and the full content MazdaEdit or some other means of reflashing the ECU. There aren't many tuners who actually tune the Mazda 3 though.
What I'm wondering is how much $ could some of us save if we could all just use that same software and computer. Like if you were to tune say, (10) Mazda 3's, how much would it cost per vehicle? Maybe I'll contact OVT. The website seems to only mention Toyotas now
 

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Actually, I saw a post on OVTuning that they no longer accept non-toyota vehicles. Wow. I have a feeling that OVTuning is just one guy...and rather than hiring another tuner, he just doesn't want to expand his business.
 

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Actually, I saw a post on OVTuning that they no longer accept non-toyota vehicles. Wow. I have a feeling that OVTuning is just one guy...and rather than hiring another tuner, he just doesn't want to expand his business.
Wrong OVT...Thats Matt at the original OVT in Hong Kong. Rafael was the Mazda part of OVT in the Philippines. Its not just one guy either, Matt has a lot of things going on besides tuning a few cars. OVT-PH used to have a website, its been gone for a while now. I was told by Rafael that if you contacted him OVT-PH might still do a tune.

What I'm wondering is how much $ could some of us save if we could all just use that same software and computer. Like if you were to tune say, (10) Mazda 3's, how much would it cost per vehicle? Maybe I'll contact OVT. The website seems to only mention Toyotas now
Again, you can't do that. The software is tied to one computer, the tune is tied to one ECU. You can't use either for any other car. Additional tunes for other cars are new applications and cost the same as a tune.
Besides, OVT doesn't issue the software licence, Epiphan does, and chances are if you try tuning a dozen cars on one licence they will cut you right off. You aren't a dealer or a tuner, you would have no reason to do so other than to do an end-around on the legitimate dealer. Not good for anybody, and one of many reasons why the small guys who do stuff like OVT does don't stick around long.:(
 

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Wrong OVT...Thats Matt at the original OVT in Hong Kong. Rafael was the Mazda part of OVT in the Philippines. Its not just one guy either, Matt has a lot of things going on besides tuning a few cars. OVT-PH used to have a website, its been gone for a while now. I was told by Rafael that if you contacted him OVT-PH might still do a tune.


Again, you can't do that. The software is tied to one computer, the tune is tied to one ECU. You can't use either for any other car. Additional tunes for other cars are new applications and cost the same as a tune.
Besides, OVT doesn't issue the software licence, Epiphan does, and chances are if you try tuning a dozen cars on one licence they will cut you right off. You aren't a dealer or a tuner, you would have no reason to do so other than to do an end-around on the legitimate dealer. Not good for anybody, and one of many reasons why the small guys who do stuff like OVT does don't stick around long.:(
Interesting...OVT and OVT-PH are not related? My buddy and his wife are actually in the Philippines right now for new year vacation, small world lol.

You can see how that is confusing? What I don't understand is that Matt is the one I emailed and he responded before. Are you saying that Matt runs the company and Rafael is the actual tuner for the Mazdas?

Also, what I mentioned is not trying to screw anyone out of their money or do anything shady. Epifan has a license that allows you or your tuner to do as many cars as you want, it's an unlimited vehicle license. What stops most people from getting tuned is the expense involved. Having everyone buy personal licenses likely drives up the expense. Getting an unlimited license would probably drive the cost per car down...I'd have to inquire through Epifan but I'm not seriously interested at this point, just looking around for fun.

You would still pay the tuner to tune each car, and the tuner would do more cars because the cost would go down and more people would do it.
274832
 

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Interesting...OVT and OVT-PH are not related? My buddy and his wife are actually in the Philippines right now for new year vacation, small world lol.

You can see how that is confusing? What I don't understand is that Matt is the one I emailed and he responded before. Are you saying that Matt runs the company and Rafael is the actual tuner for the Mazdas?
The zendesk email is the main source of contact for both as they are both parts of the same company.
Matt is the founder of OVT. He used to be in the US but recently moved to Hong Kong to enter into a larger business venture with some racing teams and car manufacturers. Mat used to do Skyactiv Mazdas, but doesn't any more for various reasons, not the least of which was people on various forums calling him out, bashing him, always wanting more, right now, and for free. The Mazda customer base was small, about 200 or so cars were being supported at the time, and the Toyota customer base was so much larger and profitable that he stopped doing Mazdas. There was continuing demand however so Matt took on Rafael to do Mazda tuning. It went on for a while but for some reason the OVT-PH website went away last October and hasn't been back. Some here have been in contact with Rafael and he has said he might still do some tuning.

Also, what I mentioned is not trying to screw anyone out of their money or do anything shady. Epifan has a license that allows you or your tuner to do as many cars as you want, it's an unlimited vehicle license. What stops most people from getting tuned is the expense involved. Having everyone buy personal licenses likely drives up the expense. Getting an unlimited license would probably drive the cost per car down...I'd have to inquire through Epifan but I'm not seriously interested at this point, just looking around for fun.
You would still pay the tuner to tune each car, and the tuner would do more cars because the cost would go down and more people would do it.
Yes, but with OVT they supply you with a limited version of MazdaEdit (the Lite version with no editing capabilities) with the appropriate license, you do the datalogging and send them to Rafael, he does the tuning in steps. You don't get the full tuning software. If you want the full version, thats got nothing to do with OVT or anybody else. I think you'd be better off just finding somebody to dyno tune the car locally.
If you don't know how to use the software properly you could potentially screw up a tune. If you are acting as the middle man here, datalogging somebody elses car then sending those logs out for review and modification, I doubt that any tuner would accept any responsibility or even take this on if the tune isn't done under their license.
 

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Yeah people don't have much patience with any truly custom performance car upgrades. I actually know a guy who did awesome turbo manifolds and exhausts for Miatas...but eventually stopped because Mazda people are really cheap and picky. Go figure lol.

He moved to Portland and now makes parts for high end cars, because the owners are willing to drop tons of money on basic items, and are less picky than Mazda people. He sells cat delete "test pipes" for GTRs for over $700 and said that they are just about the easiest things he has ever made. He said he can do 25 of them in the time and effort it used to make one equal length Miata turbo manifold that sold for $800...and he would only sell like 1 a month. His welds are so gorgeous...really wish he was still local, I'd pay him good money to make exhausts for any car I drive. The exhaust he made for my old RX7 was built so well...and he only charged me for the tubing, argon gas, and beer LOL.

Anyways I got off topic, but yes, I wouldn't blame the guy for no longer tuning Mazdas, because the owners are usually picky and demanding. Not throwing any rocks...I am also picky and demanding but I do have patience for custom performance services.
 

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Arathol, are your camber arms Megan Racing? How do you like them?

I haven't used Megan Racing parts in like 15 years...they used to be horrible quality. I am thinking that I'll be replacing the camber arms and toe arms in the back to get adjust-ability.

I'm thinking I'll do the springs, shocks, camber and toe arms, and I guess eccentric bolts up front for camber all at once, and get the car aligned with the sway bars disconnected. I'll have to look into getting endlinks too. Gosh, the stuff adds up quick but I want the car to have a good alignment and be trouble-free. I'd prefer camber plates over eccentric bolts but the only ones I have found are Corksport and frankly they seem overpriced.
 

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Arathol, are your camber arms Megan Racing? How do you like them?

I haven't used Megan Racing parts in like 15 years...they used to be horrible quality. I am thinking that I'll be replacing the camber arms and toe arms in the back to get adjust-ability.

I'm thinking I'll do the springs, shocks, camber and toe arms, and I guess eccentric bolts up front for camber all at once, and get the car aligned with the sway bars disconnected. I'll have to look into getting endlinks too. Gosh, the stuff adds up quick but I want the car to have a good alignment and be trouble-free. I'd prefer camber plates over eccentric bolts but the only ones I have found are Corksport and frankly they seem overpriced.
Yeah, Megan Racing parts. I have not had any issues with them in 3 years, so I guess they are Ok. However, when I got then they were the only ones available. There are others now, but I don't think that they are much different as they are fairly simple things. They are a pain in the butt to change though as you need to drop the rear subframe to access the inner attachment bolts...
Camber plates are ok but on't give a huge adjustment range, a couple degrees I think. You might get more with the bolts. Don't know who makes camber plates now, mine are CS. I do see that some vendors now sell coil overs with camber plates, you might want to check that and see if the plates can be purchased separately.
 

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Yeah, Megan Racing parts. I have not had any issues with them in 3 years, so I guess they are Ok. However, when I got then they were the only ones available. There are others now, but I don't think that they are much different as they are fairly simple things. They are a pain in the butt to change though as you need to drop the rear subframe to access the inner attachment bolts...
Camber plates are ok but on't give a huge adjustment range, a couple degrees I think. You might get more with the bolts. Don't know who makes camber plates now, mine are CS. I do see that some vendors now sell coil overs with camber plates, you might want to check that and see if the plates can be purchased separately.
Yep, I contacted JBR to see if he sells the camber plates separately. Fingers crossed. I am thinking that the ones on the coilover kits are designed with a different diameter spring, though. Doesn't hurt to ask. I'll probably go with eccentric bolts due to cost and if they slip over the course of a year or so I'll switch to camber plates. After lowering the car, did you have to dial the camber more positive or negative to account for the drop? I do not have much experience with FWD McPherson strut suspension setups so I do not know.

I will probably go with the JBR camber arms unless I can find a good sale on the Megan ones. I do like how the Megan arms seem to have the rubber inserts to help protect the bearings on the ends, though. For the toe arms, I can only find Megan ones, so that makes it an easy choice.

So those camber arms are a PITA to install? That sucks...I do everything myself and don't ever look forward to dropping a subframe.
 

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Update, JBR is very fast to reply. He does not sell the camber plates separately.
 

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Yep, I contacted JBR to see if he sells the camber plates separately. Fingers crossed. I am thinking that the ones on the coilover kits are designed with a different diameter spring, though. Doesn't hurt to ask. I'll probably go with eccentric bolts due to cost and if they slip over the course of a year or so I'll switch to camber plates. After lowering the car, did you have to dial the camber more positive or negative to account for the drop? I do not have much experience with FWD McPherson strut suspension setups so I do not know.

I will probably go with the JBR camber arms unless I can find a good sale on the Megan ones. I do like how the Megan arms seem to have the rubber inserts to help protect the bearings on the ends, though. For the toe arms, I can only find Megan ones, so that makes it an easy choice.

So those camber arms are a PITA to install? That sucks...I do everything myself and don't ever look forward to dropping a subframe.
I just set the plates at full negative camber. Macpherson struts seem to like more negative camber in a front drive car. It helps keep the tread face on the pavement in a hard corner.
The camber plates sit on top of the upper bearing in the strut mount, spring size should not make a difference.
Yeah, the Megan Racing arms have rubber bushings just like the factory arms. Just make sure you cover everything with never seize when you put it all together....



Changing the arms is not really that bad, you need to lower the sub frame a couple inches or so because the Mazda engineer who designed it put zero consideration on actually replacing them. The inner bolt goes through the outside, and there is a captive nut on the inside. The bolt head sits against the floor pan. You'd think the bolt would be on the inside so it could be removed easily.....



 

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The zendesk email is the main source of contact for both as they are both parts of the same company.
Matt is the founder of OVT. He used to be in the US but recently moved to Hong Kong to enter into a larger business venture with some racing teams and car manufacturers. Mat used to do Skyactiv Mazdas, but doesn't any more for various reasons, not the least of which was people on various forums calling him out, bashing him, always wanting more, right now, and for free. The Mazda customer base was small, about 200 or so cars were being supported at the time, and the Toyota customer base was so much larger and profitable that he stopped doing Mazdas. There was continuing demand however so Matt took on Rafael to do Mazda tuning. It went on for a while but for some reason the OVT-PH website went away last October and hasn't been back. Some here have been in contact with Rafael and he has said he might still do some tuning.


Yes, but with OVT they supply you with a limited version of MazdaEdit (the Lite version with no editing capabilities) with the appropriate license, you do the datalogging and send them to Rafael, he does the tuning in steps. You don't get the full tuning software. If you want the full version, thats got nothing to do with OVT or anybody else. I think you'd be better off just finding somebody to dyno tune the car locally.
If you don't know how to use the software properly you could potentially screw up a tune. If you are acting as the middle man here, datalogging somebody elses car then sending those logs out for review and modification, I doubt that any tuner would accept any responsibility or even take this on if the tune isn't done under their license.
Raphael will do Mazdas on a per request basis via a Paypal invoice. You get a single license FULL mazdaEdit, but its tied to one VIN, unless you pay $899 (minus the base price for the single VIN version, i verified it can be bought/unlocked from the software company regardless who sold it to you, IE OVT).

With the multi VIN version, you can share the maps, but each person would still need to buy the $250 Personal (single VIN) version to install it. But, then you kinda open yourself up to issues if someone effs their car up and points the finger at you, that would be the main reason i personally would NOT do this, unless there was a waiver i could legally use to absolve myself.
 

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Raphael will do Mazdas on a per request basis via a Paypal invoice. You get a single license FULL mazdaEdit, but its tied to one VIN, unless you pay $899 (minus the base price for the single VIN version, i verified it can be bought/unlocked from the software company regardless who sold it to you, IE OVT).
What you get from OVT is MazdaEdit Lite. It allows you to datalog, review the logs, do the virtualy dyno etc, but its not the full MazdaEdit that allows you to actually edit or change anything.



 

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Well, they told me it was the $250 version when i asked, cause i wanted to be able to upgrade it at some point for the Pro. So, im going by that, which i suppose could be wrong.
 

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I got the 93 octane full tune package from Rafael in March, that is what I got, same as everybody else. The software was labeled as MazdaEdit Personal, and thats the name attached to the screen icon, but it actually is the MazdaEdit Lite. There is no way to change anything except which ECU parameters are recorded.
To do the remote tune, all you need is the data logging and ECU editing (reflash) capability anyhow, you don't need the map editing. Thats the part the OVT does.
 
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