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Discussion Starter #1
Probably a dumb question, but is it I’ll advised to reuse the crankshaft pulley bolt when changing out the pulley? Is there a particular reason why you shouldn’t use the old one, especially if you apply threadlocker?
 

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Quite likely a torque to yield bolt. Once it’s tightened to the properly torque spec it actually damages the threads I’m pretty new to Mazda’s but almost everyone I’ve seen on a Ford is
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Quite likely a torque to yield bolt. Once it’s tightened to the properly torque spec it actually damages the threads I’m pretty new to Mazda’s but almost everyone I’ve seen on a Ford is
that’s what I was afraid of.... now I need to go get me a new bolt!
 

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There's nothing that says you can't. As long as you follow the proper procedure for installation it should be fine.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
From all I’ve read and watched, that bolt is super stubborn to get off without air tools.
 

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Crank pulley bolts usually are difficult to remove. Air impact or an electric impact will do the trick. There's also the old starter trick. You use a breaker bar on the bolt and rest it on the car frame. When you turn the starter, the electric motor turning the engine will crack the bolt off.
This is a complete ghetto move. I'd strongly advise an impact gun over this. If you put the bar on the wrong side of the frame, the engine will throw it when you turn it. You also have to disable the fuel pump and clear it out first. It's not the safest thing.

The bolt can be reused. I'm sure it exists, but I have yet to see a TTY crank pulley bolt because from an engineering standpoint it's completely unnecessary.

When you're reinstalling, remember there's a high torque on this. At the very least you need a torque wrench. Getting this wrong can cause severe damage. Think of the bolt coming loose while on the road or possibly breaking it off in the crank. It's also difficult to install because well the engine turns. There's a few ways to handle it. You could try it as a last step with the car on the ground and block the wheels. In the past I've pulled another ghetto move - get some soft nylon rope and fill one of the cylinders with it. Soft enough to not damage anything but will stop engine rotation.

The best and easiest solution is to get a set of torque limiting bars. That way you can hammer it down with the impact gun.

Threadlocker isn't a bad idea, but unless the service manual calls for it isn't necessary either. If you choose to use some, I'd suggest the medium strength blue. The red stuff holds pretty tight....could be an issue if you need to do this job again.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Crank pulley bolts usually are difficult to remove. Air impact or an electric impact will do the trick. There's also the old starter trick. You use a breaker bar on the bolt and rest it on the car frame. When you turn the starter, the electric motor turning the engine will crack the bolt off.
This is a complete ghetto move. I'd strongly advise an impact gun over this. If you put the bar on the wrong side of the frame, the engine will throw it when you turn it. You also have to disable the fuel pump and clear it out first. It's not the safest thing.

The bolt can be reused. I'm sure it exists, but I have yet to see a TTY crank pulley bolt because from an engineering standpoint it's completely unnecessary.

When you're reinstalling, remember there's a high torque on this. At the very least you need a torque wrench. Getting this wrong can cause severe damage. Think of the bolt coming loose while on the road or possibly breaking it off in the crank. It's also difficult to install because well the engine turns. There's a few ways to handle it. You could try it as a last step with the car on the ground and block the wheels. In the past I've pulled another ghetto move - get some soft nylon rope and fill one of the cylinders with it. Soft enough to not damage anything but will stop engine rotation.

The best and easiest solution is to get a set of torque limiting bars. That way you can hammer it down with the impact gun.

Threadlocker isn't a bad idea, but unless the service manual calls for it isn't necessary either. If you choose to use some, I'd suggest the medium strength blue. The red stuff holds pretty tight....could be an issue if you need to do this job again.
Yeah, i definitely don't want to resort to using the ghetto move to remove/install the pulley bolt. I've seen people use chain wrenches to keep the pulley from moving. I may go that route. It's not the initial 80 ft/lbs of torque that worries me, but the subsequent quarter turn..
 

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There is a service tool to do this. Google special service tool 205-072. Its a bar that attaches to the pulley so it can be held in place while torquing the bolt. You can probably get one for a day at NAPA or whatever.
Don't use a chain wrench. If you put enough pressure on it to keep the crank from turning, its very easy to crush the pulley so its out of round, bent or otherwise damaged.
The torque spec is 67-81 ft/lbs + 55°- 65° of rotation, which is ~1/6th of a turn. Torquing the bolt to spec should not be a problem if you have the proper torque wrench.
A bit of blue loctite is ok, do not use red.....
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Cool, thanks for the info
 
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