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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello folks. I am a new 2010 Mazdaspeed3 owner in Texas and find your site very helpful and full of useful information. I have been reading the countless threads on air intakes and wanted some advice from those more experienced than myself. I am looking to add an intake but don't want to void my warranty and don't want to live with a CEL for the rest of its life. I had a Maxima that I had added a K&N cone filter to. It worked good for several years and then started giving me a CEL pretty much all the time(along with rough idling/pinging/poor performance/etc....). I was told by several mechanics that the K&N filter oil(if put on too liberally) would gunk up the MAF sensor and cause that issue. I didn't think I put that much on, but guess its a possibility. Ended up changing out 2 MAF's in 3 years, even after changing to a new K&N cone. I would love to hear some recommendations. My main wants/concerns with this are:
  • not to void my factory warranty-can't afford to have them tell me they won't fix other issues due to my mod
  • get decent performance gains without messing up my MAF sensor or require some kind of re-tune on the Fuel/Air map
  • not throw a CEL light

I see that some of the intakes listed in other posts use air filters that don't require oil. Would that be less likely to throw a light or cause damage? Any recommendations would help. Thanks!
 

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Street Unit - Ninja Killa
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well there is no way if the dealer can prove it was your intake that it will not void your warranty. I think that is a risk we all take with getting one. Also Most peoples concern I think is hydro-lock.. I know that is mine. I would stick with a SRI Intake.
 
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Street Unit - Ninja Killa
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I wouldnt say that it is the K&N filter oil to blame for the CEL. I have had K&N intake systems on all of my vehicles without any problems. As soon as the K&N system for the 2010 is C.A.R.B certified (because i live in stupid California...), i will buy it for my 3 as well. It even says on the K&N website that it is guaranteeded that the oil will not harm the MAF or K&N will pay for the repairs.
 
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As mentioned above, the warranty for the entire vehicle cannot be voided just by adding an intake. The Magnuson–Moss Warranty Act prohibits this from happening. Basically, the warranty can only be voided for portions affected by installing an aftermarket part, if said portions were damaged directly by the aftermarket part. Burden of proof lies with the dealer in these cases and must be presented in writing after examination, although this does not stop a dealership from its right of refusing to work on your vehicle due to the part.

Also, if Texas is one of the states that uses California's emissions laws (C.A.R.B. certifications), then any part that does not have a C.A.R.B. exemption will be illegal. As far as I know, the Magnuson-Moss act would still apply in these cases though for warranty purposes.

The oil does not harm the MAF, but it can dirty it to the point where the readings will be off.

Easiest way to avoid that is to get a dry filter like a AEM DryFlow, AFE ProDry S, or AMSOIL/Injen EaA.

If you don't want to purchase a dry filter, you can buy some MAF cleaner from any local auto parts store and clean the MAF every 15,000 miles or so.

As far as CEL's go, typically any intake that reduces the pipe diameter at the MAF sensor location should not throw any codes regarding fuel trims. I do not have much first hand knowledge on MS3 intakes though, but as far as I know the many quality brands, such as CP-E, K&N, Injen, AEM, Cobb Tuning, etc. do not throw any CELs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks, folks! I appreciate all of the quick responses! I was thinking about either the Cobb or the K&N Typhoon but was leaning towards the K&N. If I install either of these, does anyone know if I will be able to bring it back to stock if needed? i.e. Does the removal of the stock components require you to "break" anything that can't be undone without buying new parts?(I had to on my last car when replacing the stock airbox)
 

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I'm becoming more and more of the opinion that you should avoid running the Cobb intake/inlet unless you plan on tuning your car. Their MAF housing diameter is ever slightly larger than stock and has caused people to get CELs as well as some absurd fuel trim values in closed loop. They did not account for the incredibly minor difference between gen1 and gen2. Fitment is identical, MAF diameter is not and gen2's ECU is a lot more finicky.

I would also recommend going dry filter. Just easier to deal with. The only intake that requires you to modify any stock component is the CorkSport- you have to trim the recirculation tube that comes with the inlet pipe. But strictly intakes, swapping either stock or aftermarket should be a 15-20 minute job.
 

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My main wants/concerns with this are:
  • not to void my factory warranty-can't afford to have them tell me they won't fix other issues due to my mod

    Mazda Corp not the dealer must deny the claim, as I have said many times, a warranty can not be voided, the claim can be denied. Mazda, with dealer input, must prove the intake mod or any mod caused the failure, this is hard to do in most cases. With an intake this will not happen if you install in properly, and there are no leaks.
  • get decent performance gains without messing up my MAF sensor or require some kind of re-tune on the Fuel/Air map

    All you really have to do is disconnect the negative, push on the brake to drain down, reconnect and drive for a short period. The ECU will relearn based on the change in air flow. It would be advantageous to get a tune, but not with this one mod.
  • not throw a CEL light

    Install the Intake properly, check for leaks and go, there should be no CELS. I have had the CS TIP/SRI since January with no issues.

I see that some of the intakes listed in other posts use air filters that don't require oil. Would that be less likely to throw a light or cause damage? Any recommendations would help. Thanks!

Cannot address this issue, but I don't see where this would be a major issue unless you dipped the filter in oil
Only my thoughts
 
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I'm becoming more and more of the opinion that you should avoid running the Cobb intake/inlet unless you plan on tuning your car. Their MAF housing diameter is ever slightly larger than stock and has caused people to get CELs as well as some absurd fuel trim values in closed loop. They did not account for the incredibly minor difference between gen1 and gen2. Fitment is identical, MAF diameter is not and gen2's ECU is a lot more finicky.

I would also recommend going dry filter. Just easier to deal with. The only intake that requires you to modify any stock component is the CorkSport- you have to trim the recirculation tube that comes with the inlet pipe. But strictly intakes, swapping either stock or aftermarket should be a 15-20 minute job.
You don't have to trim the recirc tube for the CS intake. It doesn't come with one either...
You can buy a silicone recirc tube from them separately, but it fits exactly the same as stock.
 

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You don't have to trim the recirc tube for the CS intake. It doesn't come with one either...
You can buy a silicone recirc tube from them separately, but it fits exactly the same as stock.
As wolly6973 has said. You don't need to trim the hose anymore. Our system comes with the TIP and a dry flow filter and is CARB certified now.

Give me a call if you have any questions about it.

And like others have said. A dealer can not just void your warranty because you have a intake on it. If a issue comes up with your car they would have to prove that the intake was the cause of the problem for it to void your warranty. They may tell you that it is void but you can just take it to another dealer if you have that option. You don't have to get your car worked on at the dealer that you bought your car from.
 

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Resqflyr
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CS Intake

Buy with confidence !!!! I have one for my 10' Speed3 and love it.. Make sure you get the Turbo Inlet Tube, Major turbo spool improvement and awesome sound!
 
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