[4thqtrhero]

Hey all, this is my first post so go easy on me lol.

I have been going through the threads on this forum for idk how long and finally made my suspension decision, I am going to go with Koni fsd's and racing beat springs. This combo will give me the looks, performance, an ride that I am looking for in a daily driver. (Meaning I am not really needing any additional input on the type of suspension or alternative setups).

I am here to ask that one of the experts here walk me through any additional parts that I need to pickup prior to installation, things to expect, and/or tips and tricks to make this whole experience go smoothly. I would like to think that I am technically inclined, but I have never attempted to do any of this type of work on my own, so I want to be as informed as possible. I really appreciate any help that anyone is able to provide. Also, in order to not seem like too much of a new guy, I have tried to go through the prior threads as much as possible in order to not duplicate my question lol.

 

[arathol]

If you have never done this before, there are some things you will need. Metric socket set and allen keys, a long extension for the sockets, metric box wrenches, torque wrench, spring compressor, maybe an pneumatic impact hammer, jack, jack stands, and some never seize (you may not think so but next time you change the shocks you will be glad you used it).
Its not quite as easy as it looks.
For the rears-
You need to pull the wheel off, then support the lower control arm with a jack. Disconnect the lower end of the swaybar end link. The stud has an allen key in the end to keep it from turning.
Remove the bolt that fastens the lower control arm to the rear hub. Lower the jack and the control arm will follow, decompressing the spring. Remove the spring. Now is the time to change the shock, with the spring out of the way. Remove the nut on the lower mount. Now you need to break the mounting stud free and remove that. The shock won't come off if you don't. You need I think an 8mm socket here on the end of the stud. It might take a bit of effort to get it out, I used the air gun to do it. Once its out remove the two upper mounting nuts (the long extension comes in handy here) and the shock comes loose.
Installation is pretty much the reverse. Be sure to use never seize on all the nuts and bolts, especially the lower shock stud. Torque everything properly or you'll inevitably have something knocking afterwards. The smaller nuts, like the endlinks and upper shock mounts are ~35-45 ft/lbs. The lower shock stud should be 45-50 ft/lbs, lower control arm bolt should be ~70-75 ft/lbs. Wheels lugs are 85 ft/lbs.

For the fronts, much easier.
Assemble the strut/spring combo before hand. The center nut on the shock should be ~45 ft/lbs.
Remove the tire. Remove the 3 upper mount nuts on the top of the fender. Remove the two attachment bolts on the lower end of the strut and the sway bar link from the mounting tab. Make sure you remove the brake lines and ABS sensor wires too. The strut should come right out. Installation is the reverse. Again torque everything. The two big bolts on the strut are 105-110 ft/lbs. Upper mount nuts are 35-40 ft/lbs and endlink nut is 35-40 ft/lbs.

 

[4thqtrhero]

Thanks, I decided to move up my project due to some things that I saw on a visual inspection after this post. There was significant wear on the top right strut tower, and it appeared that the bearing at the top of the strut was shot. I figured that I might as well bite the bullet and do things now. I went ahead and bought new front strut mounts, bearings, and dustcovers for the front struts as well, considering the poor shape of the front right side.

The perils of buying a used car. :frown2:

 

[minsanity]

Grab a pair of Mazda OE Spring Protectors:KDY534081
These prevent clunk. Install 138mm from top end of front springs. Open & lube the front strutmount bearings, too.

 

[eyeballi77]

Thanks @4thqtrhero for posting.. all good stuff.. am researching my own upgrade kit list... :smile2:

Its amazing the knowledge available on the forum and goes a long way to making these decisions easier..

How is the ride now following all the work? I am on the eibach path but have seen a few mentions of the Koni and makes me wonder how 'firm' they are..

cheers.

 

[4thqtrhero]

Hey, so far so good. I am using my car as a daily driver plus type set up and it has been great. I don't know how they would stack up with the eibach springs because they are progressive rate springs (might be a little soft in the beginning).

 

[arathol]

Which Konis?

 

[eyeballi77]

Which Konis?

Hey @arathol

The threads I have read on the forum here have all been with the fsd. As I have no experience with any kind of shocks other than stock, I am cautious is all. I don't want to go too far and end up with too firm a ride.

Cheers

 

[arathol]

The FSDs ride very well, better than stock shock I think. With these, the springs will be the determining factor in ride quality. Those Eibach springs will be just fine with the FSD shocks.

 

[eyeballi77]

The FSDs ride very well, better than stock shock I think. With these, the springs will be the determining factor in ride quality. Those Eibach springs will be just fine with the FSD shocks.

Thanks again everyone.

Sent from my ONEPLUS A5000 using Tapatalk

 

[Moto-x_Mike]

Hey @arathol

The threads I have read on the forum here have all been with the fsd. As I have no experience with any kind of shocks other than stock, I am cautious is all. I don't want to go too far and end up with too firm a ride.

Cheers

The Koni FSD's ride smoother & take up the the jolts (like freeway expansion joints) better than the stock shocks, even with the Racing Beat springs installed with them. Then they firm up nicely when you need them to for spirited driving. A great combo for a daily driver. The technology works!