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MAAAAAD
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2,140 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My 2011 Mazda3s GT needs strut replacement.

I was thinking of getting Monroe Quick Struts because they're cheap...but it seems like Monroe doesn't make very reliable products. There seems to be a lot of dissatisfaction from their products. Anyone have personal experience with them?

My next options are:
  • Koni STR.T + Eibach Pro-kit springs
  • Megan Racing Coilovers
  • ST X Coilovers

I use my car as a daily driver and my normal commute consists of curvy mountain roads + highway.

I'm up for any suggestions as well.
 

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Demon Spawn
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758 Posts
Koni is good KYB is what the factory uses and I have used kyb on many cars and have been satisfied koni is better if you want to do lowering mods kyb better for stock ride and feel
 

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MAAAAAD
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2,140 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Does anyone have any experience with ST X Coilovers? They're made by KW and seem like they're very similar to KW V1's

I'd like to maintain stock ride or not much stiffer than stock but would like to lower it a little.
 

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Demon Spawn
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758 Posts
Koni orange (str.t, I think is their name, they are orange painted) are a good bet for that as they are not very expensive, reliable struts that have a slightly stiffer feel then stock and will work good with lowering springs, check tirerack.com, they have a bunch of good strut and coilover setups that come with stock height or lowering springs of varying levels and have options to buy struts/shocks and springs separately or as a package that works together
 

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Tirerack sells an Eibach Prokit/Koni Yellow kit for our 2nd gens. I have it on mine and love it. Very comfortable ride but still feels sportier. I had H&R coilovers prior to this and the ride quality was horrible. If you have rough roads I wouldn't recommend any coilover setup as they'll all be pretty harsh.
 

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Demon Spawn
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758 Posts
Tirerack sells an Eibach Prokit/Koni Yellow kit for our 2nd gens. I have it on mine and love it. Very comfortable ride but still feels sportier. I had H&R coilovers prior to this and the ride quality was horrible. If you have rough roads I wouldn't recommend any coilover setup as they'll all be pretty harsh.
gotta agree here, rough roads and coilovers suck. so anyone in a major city period basically. i also suggest the set he does as i had it on my 08 and loved it. i had their str.t orange ones on my old protégé and they where great too but more firm without adjustment whereas if i remember correctly the yellows are adjustable
 

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MAAAAAD
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2,140 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
hmm ok..

So I've crossed the Coilovers out because it seems like it'll ride harder than the other options.

My new options are:
  • KYB Excel-G (basically OEM set up) (~$300)
  • Koni STR.T (Orange) + Eibach Pro-Kit (~$600)
  • Koni Sport (Yellow) + Eibach Pro-Kit (~$800)
  • Koni Sport (Yellow) + H&R Springs (~$780)

Are the Koni STR.T firmer than Koni Yellows on their softest setting?

It's so hard to choose! haha
 

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How much lower do you want to go? The Eibachs are a bit over an inch drop, the H&Rs another half inch more. It seems that the H&R drop is just about right, noticeable but still quite functional.
You seem to have missed the dampers that really work well for what you are looking to do. The Koni FSD rides at least as good as stock, and works well with the Eibachs and especially with the progressive rates of the H&R springs.
 

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I had STR.Ts and racing beat springs on my car at one point too. I think the yellows on the softest setting might be softer than the non adjustable str.t's but am not sure. I really notice no negative impact on ride quality with the eibach's and yellows set to be somewhere in the middle.
 

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MAAAAAD
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2,140 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
not to low so i think the eibach pro-kits will be just right based on the pics i've seen. Also the Koni STR.T with Eibach Pro-kits are eligible for $50 rebate right now whereas the one with H&R are not.

I think I'm going to get the Koni STR.T + Eibach Pro-kit.

What else do I need? I was told I should get new strut mounts/bearings

Do the Koni's need dust covers? should I reuse the ones from my stock struts/shocks or just purchase new ones?
 

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Demon Spawn
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758 Posts
not to low so i think the eibach pro-kits will be just right based on the pics i've seen. Also the Koni STR.T with Eibach Pro-kits are eligible for $50 rebate right now whereas the one with H&R are not.

I think I'm going to get the Koni STR.T + Eibach Pro-kit.

What else do I need? I was told I should get new strut mounts/bearings

Do the Koni's need dust covers? should I reuse the ones from my stock struts/shocks or just purchase new ones?
if the set/kit you buy does not come with mounting plates buy new ones and use them, kyb, monroe any will work as its just a mount point and a plastic bearing for slight pivots, does not need to be anything super special. just get a name brand i would buy new dust covers as well, they are cheap and help extend the life of the strut/shock
 

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I didn't need new strut mounts when I changed out to mine. You'll need the dust boots for sure from the OEM shocks; you may need the bump stops too but its been a while and can't remember if the shop used those or not.
 

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Demon Spawn
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758 Posts
If your changing the struts change the mounts, even if they are not worn out, they are cheap and much easier to replace when your already doing struts then have to take everything back off when one fails and have to get a complete new alignment as well again. If your going to do something do it right. Don't cheap out and skip replacing parts you are taking off that are a major component to the handling and steering of the car. if that bearing (its actually just plastic) breaks your strut could fall out, its rare for this to happen in a maintained car but it does, so like I said don't skip important parts. That mount takes a lot of weight and pressure especially in turns and its crucial it functions as needed every time. Im a fan of preventative repairs over reactive repairs. ask yourself, should I cheap out now and not replace this $30 part while doing $1000 worth of work, and save $30 now and risk having it break later on and having to spend $1000 or more again because it broke and messed more stuff up? or is it better to just spend a little more now, do a thorough job and have a known new and good part in the car that should last as long as these other parts I am changing?

I did cv axles on my 08 3 a few years back and you know what all was replaced while doing them, front pads and rotors, hub bearings where checked cv axles, tie rod ends and everything suspension that could be was greased. even though the tie rods where fine, the brakes had over 55% pad life left etc but they had to come off and I don't put used parts back on my car, once its off its replaced.

I did struts all the way around on my 03 protégé a long time ago as well it had struts, springs, mounts, control arms, tie rod ends, brakes changed all at the same time again because they had to come off or get out of the way and while I have the car apart might as well put new parts in, it needed the tie rod ends and control arms (it had 150k on the oem ones) but brakes where still good, but had to be moved and the car was already in the air wheels off, and it takes all of an extra 30 minutes to do brakes so I did them. preventative maintenance can go along way in the reliability, cost and longevity of your car ownership

its better to overspend now and get more done then needed then underspend and have a break down in the middle of the night, possibly get in accident and have to have your car towed or even worse plus extra repair bills, this goes for any repair not just struts, change pads? go ahead and change rotors they are cheap, right there and easy to do. change tie rod ends, check and replace the control arms and other suspension and steering components that are there as well, because things like the steering system and suspension all the components must work together in harmony and when one starts to fail the others do to.
 
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