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Discussion Starter #1
Ok I know most will say research all the threads but I still have some questions on some things...
1-what springs have the best spring rate for street and once a month road course track use?
2-what rear swaybar will work best and are aftermarket endlinks a must?
I have a 2018 mazda 3 2.5lt sedan 6 speed manual.

Thank you for all the postive feedback in advance?
 

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timtim
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Ok I know most will say research all the threads but I still have some questions on some things...
1-what springs have the best spring rate for street and once a month road course track use?
2-what rear swaybar will work best and are aftermarket endlinks a must?
I have a 2018 mazda 3 2.5lt sedan 6 speed manual.

Thank you for all the postive feedback in advance?
2015 Mazda 3 GTS (2.5L) - I pretty much have all the components from the CorkSport catalog and killed it in the corners at Sonoma Raceway last weekend . . . it's a bit rough on the road, but that's the price you pay for go-kart level handling :wink2:

List of my suspension mods -

Front Strut Tower Bar
Front Camber Plates
Lowering Springs
Adjustable Struts and Shocks
Rear Camber Arms
Rear Sway Bar

Hope this helps.
 

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Well, lowering a car that much with near OEM rate springs and near OEM dampers means you'll be spending a lot of time on the bump stops if you push it, hence
it's a bit rough on the road, but that's the price you pay for go-kart level handling.
Not the best for track use either. You can do a lot better if actual performance is your goal.
Stiff good. A good suspension will be compliant and still handle well. That means springs that are uprated from OEM and dampers that can control them. You don't really want it too stiff or you'll be lifting a wheel in the corners....:surprise:

If most of your time is daily driving, something like H&Rs or Vogtlands will probably be a better choice. They don't lower as much as the CS springs and ride better.
Get decent dampers, don't skimp on the important stuff. Koni Yellows might be ok for the track but not so much on the street. Koni FSDs ride a lot better and perform very well.
As to the sway bar, many here seem to like the Progress rear bar. There have been issues with the CS bar lately on newer cars (there is a discussion elsewhere on the forum) that has yet to be resolved.
End links should be replaced with adjustable units. Lowering the car changes the suspension geometry and the end links need to be shorter to correct that. Also, the stock endlinks have been known to fail when used with larger bars. HardRace sells them, and there is a vendor on Ebay (German Racing Parts) that sells good ones somewhat cheaper. The GRP links are built for the apocalypse....:smile2:
 

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My setup--stock shocks and struts, Racing Beat springs (linear, 20% stiffer than stock), Progress RSB (22mm solid, set to soft), and camber bolts.

I didn't go with aftermarket end links, since I wasn't gonna get a lot of G with the all-season touring tires with 195 section width.

The handling feels a bit more precise and responsive with this setup. The stock setup probably has the best comfort-to-responsive ratio. Any mod that you do will result in a bit hit to comfort for a little bit of responsiveness.

Handling-wise, I didn't need the lowering springs, but I really just hated the wheel gap on this car.

I now have -0.7 front camber, 0.10 front toe, -1.0 rear camber, 0.08 rear toe
 

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My setup--stock shocks and struts, Racing Beat springs (linear, 20% stiffer than stock), Progress RSB (22mm solid, set to soft), and camber bolts.

I didn't go with aftermarket end links, since I wasn't gonna get a lot of G with the all-season touring tires with 195 section width.

The handling feels a bit more precise and responsive with this setup. The stock setup probably has the best comfort-to-responsive ratio. Any mod that you do will result in a bit hit to comfort for a little bit of responsiveness.

Handling-wise, I didn't need the lowering springs, but I really just hated the wheel gap on this car.

I now have -0.7 front camber, 0.10 front toe, -1.0 rear camber, 0.08 rear toe


What camber bolts did you get? I have the same lowering set up.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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They are sold as Eibach 5.81260K but the head of the bolt still bears the Specialty Products Company logo. I put the bolt with the tab facing towards the inside the car, which is said to give max camber. Seems like the most front camber you can get even with plates is -1.5, so I'm pretty happy with it at $25.
 
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