2004 to 2016 Mazda 3 Forum and Mazdaspeed 3 Forums banner

1 - 11 of 11 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Starting to have some issues with my 2014 Mazda 3 2.0 90k miles today. During acceleration after a stop light my car went into limp mode and check engine started flashing and the tpms and traction control light went on. I had an aftermarket gauge on my vehicle that I was able to use and found the code p0882 and a quick google search shows low power signal to the tcm. I checked the voltage while driving with the gauge and it seems like my vehicle is charging at about 12.5v -13.5 which is too low. After restarting the engine car never went into limp mode throughout the day. Had a local shop check out my battery and alternator but was told the alternator and battery is good. I happen to install aftermarket led drl last week but not sure if it’s related. Curious if anyone else happen to run into the same problem. Might just take it to a dealer to have it checked out but alternator replacement will run close to $1k
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
671 Posts
How old is the battery? If it's OEM, I'd cast a very suspicious eye on it. Have it load-tested again at another place, perhaps one that specializes in batteries. If the battery did come with the car, it's mighty long in the tooth and probably needs retirement. A bad battery will cause lots of problems with computer-dependent cars.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
How old is the battery? If it's OEM, I'd cast a very suspicious eye on it. Have it load-tested again at another place, perhaps one that specializes in batteries. If the battery did come with the car, it's mighty long in the tooth and probably needs retirement. A bad battery will cause lots of problems with computer-dependent cars.
It was an aftermarket battery from 2017. I had the alternator and battery tested at two different shops and was told it was fine. I decided to just change the battery anyways with the red top optima and looks like it charged at 12.5v once but never again since so I’ll just see how it goes and if it happens again I’ll just go to the dealer. Thanks for the reply though.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
671 Posts
My factory battery lasted 3.4 years. A brand-new aftermarket replacement lasted seven months when it refused to turn over the engine and wouldn't take a charge from a battery charger past 5 volts. It was replaced under warranty and has been going strong for the past 10 months.

I will say that 12.5v with the engine running is pretty low. I've seen mine run at around 13.3v in 100F weather and 14v and above in cold weather. However, if your new Optima was packed full, maybe that's why it did so once. Let's hope so.

I'm not aware of any problems with our alternators nor any with aftermarket LED DRLs causing such electric system chaos, but there are always exceptions. It's good that you're keeping an eye on that voltmeter.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,271 Posts
My battery is original, 5 years old now. Still works fine. I load test it every now and then to be sure it's still good.

You guys have problems with the OEM?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
My factory battery lasted 3.4 years. A brand-new aftermarket replacement lasted seven months when it refused to turn over the engine and wouldn't take a charge from a battery charger past 5 volts. It was replaced under warranty and has been going strong for the past 10 months.

I will say that 12.5v with the engine running is pretty low. I've seen mine run at around 13.3v in 100F weather and 14v and above in cold weather. However, if your new Optima was packed full, maybe that's why it did so once. Let's hope so.

I'm not aware of any problems with our alternators nor any with aftermarket LED DRLs causing such electric system chaos, but there are always exceptions. It's good that you're keeping an eye on that voltmeter.
Yea I haven’t heard anyone having electrical problems with our cars. Hopefully won’t happen again though was a bit scared when it went to limp mode.
My battery is original, 5 years old now. Still works fine. I load test it every now and then to be sure it's still good.

You guys have problems with the OEM?
Mine died within 2/3 years lol. But then again it’s always a hit or miss with batteries.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,271 Posts
Yeah I suppose you're right. I've always heard to expect a battery to die anytime after 3 years. I've been quite lucky that way.

My old Hyundai had the OEM battery last for over 7 years. I figured it out in a good way. I was working on something and back then I used to roll down the windows and turn the stereo on while I was working. After about 20 minutes I started to wonder where my music went! Put it on an old charger and managed to get enough juice out of it to get the car running. Drive straight to Wal-Mart and replaced it in the parking lot lol. Much better than getting stranded!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,252 Posts
If you got a short in the battery, life is no good. Might be a short somewhere in the system. Check the battery for heat next time it happens.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
24 Posts
I live in Florida and the battery in my 3 lasts about two years, I guess because of the scorching hot temperatures year-round. I had an issue with my battery and I took it to two Auto Zones to get it tested. Both times they said both the battery and the alternator were fine, the car wouldn't start again after the second test. I ended up taking it to the dealer and I guess they had a different battery meter with a readout graph which said it was recommended to have the battery replaced. After I replaced it no more issues.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
671 Posts
Yep, I've read that the stress of excessive heat on battery chemistry kills more batteries than the stress of intense cold.

Under-hood temperatures can climb to high levels when you're stuck in traffic with the air conditioner on. Then, when you shut the engine down, the heat peaks due to lack of fresh air circulation. I believe our cars are wired to run the radiator fans for a while if the heat gets really high after shutdown, for whatever good it does to blow more hot radiator air into a hot engine bay.

It's too bad batteries are located in the engine bay. It's the worse place on the car for the battery.

I'm nerdy enough to have installed louvers in my Mazda's hood to get rid of some of the heat faster, and I even have an engine bay temperature gauge to prove the point. At highway speeds, the under-hood temperatures run the same as ambient. In stop-and-go traffic in hot weather, it rises to maybe 120F or so, but goes down rapidly as soon as the car is moving again. But when the engine is shut down, the temperature spikes to over 150F and stays there until the heat is gradually bled down as the engine slowly cools off.

Hot enough to cook a chicken. Hot enough to toast a battery.

I've read that the ideal battery temperature is from 68F to 86F.

For sure, a heat-sensitive battery lives a hard life under the hood, especially in the Deep South.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
277 Posts
We have a 2014 model with original battery. It's booked in for a battery replacement next week- the i-Stop light won't go off and the battery tests out good but not excellent. The car cranks &starts effortlessly.
I suspect Mazda has based the vehicle control system on the car always having a first class battery because of the i-Stop.
 
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
Top