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I've seen that some other folks have had trouble with this. Here's the problem I'm encountering.

- Yesterday morning, go out to the car, and the fob seems to be dead. The car doesn't respond to its proximity when I push the door-handle button, and the unlock button on the fob itself does nothing. I use the key, get into the car, and go--it starts right up--the car has a starter button, and it seems to be recognizing that the fob is present.
- Yesterday evening, I go out to the car and the door-handle button works as it should. Stay for a couple of hours at my destination, go back to the car. Still OK.
- This morning, it's the same situation as yesterday morning: fob seems to be dead, use key to get in. I hear constant beeping and see the hazards blink on the dash, but the car starts up. Drive to my destination, stay for an hour, go back to the car, door-handle button works correctly.

Anyone know of anything to be done about this?
 

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My low tech response in these similar situations with any electronics is to always remove the battery and press the power button for several seconds to clear it out....obviously batteries also not only go dead but can go bad before going dead. A system reboot would also be on my simple list of fixes before getting crazy with other stuff. Assume you have a second remote, try that one as well.
 

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Just change the battery and check the voltage on the old one. A voltage under 3V indicates a failing battery. Did you see the key battery indicator warning light on the dashboard flash? Have you had a second key in the car which can cause one of the keys to be disabled?
 

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Try changing the battery in the key fob.

In emegencies, they are designed with a proximity low voltage in case of dead key fob battery which works by tapping/pushing the fob on the ignition button.

It's in the manual BTW
 

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Try changing the battery in the key fob.

In emegencies, they are designed with a proximity low voltage in case of dead key fob battery which works by tapping/pushing the fob on the ignition button.

It's in the manual BTW
There must be a RFID device in the key fob which works when you press the key fob to the start button. The RFID device is energised by RF transmitted from the car and doesn't require a power source in the key fob.
 

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No joke, serious question. Our Mazda3 has keyless entry? I didn't see any button in the door handle. I've had the car for 2 month, it is a 2016 Mazda3.

I'll check it out again after work.
 

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I have no button on the door of my '15 either. But, I believe there is a key hole in the door which fits the physical key that is secured in the fob. I've never had to try it, so I must have faith that it will work if/when the fob fobs-up.
 

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There must be a RFID device in the key fob which works when you press the key fob to the start button. The RFID device is energised by RF transmitted from the car and doesn't require a power source in the key fob.
It has but it is extremely close proximity in case shit hits the fan
 

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Mine fails the same way almost every week. When it works, either fob will unlock the doors from 100 feet away, so it's not the batteries in the fobs. Just another case of unreliable Mazda electronics. I'm learning to live with it.
 

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I'm having a very similar problem with my 2014 Mazda3 touring 5-door. This started a couple of weeks ago when I left the fob in the driver's seat, with the car running, while I scraped snow. When I got back in and closed the door, it immediately started beeping to warn me that the fob wasn't in the car—even though it was. It drives fine once it's running, and sometimes the indicator light turns green as I drive. Locks will only sporadically work with either the fob or the door access button, and it doesn't seem to matter whether I've been driving or not. I can always start it by touching the fob to the start button.

I previously had an issue with the audio system, which was resolved literally by removing the audio system fuse and then placing the same fuse back in. I was hoping this might also be a fuse issue, but I don't see a fuse label that seems to match the keyless entry system. Both fobs have working batteries, and when one isn't working, the other also doesn't work, so I feel like the problem is with the electrical system, and not the fobs.
 

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Either do a simple reset of the infotainment or pull the battery cable for a minute or two as the next step. Obviously, it's beyond pulling a fuse. Many here have mentioned that pulling the battery cable resolved several electronic issues when a simple system reset didn't work....just know it will clear all of your car settings including emissions. Digressing a bit, your story is another reason why I strongly suggest to people not to use the auto lock walk away function...even though the engine was running and the car was inside the car, the car sensed the fob was not close and could have locked the car, in a slightly different scenario.

Again, we forget like our smart phones and laptops, you need to do a battery pull and press the on buttons to clear out the static memory.
 

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Either do a simple reset of the infotainment or pull the battery cable for a minute or two as the next step. Obviously, it's beyond pulling a fuse. Many here have mentioned that pulling the battery cable resolved several electronic issues when a simple system reset didn't work....just know it will clear all of your car settings including emissions. Digressing a bit, your story is another reason why I strongly suggest to people not to use the auto lock walk away function...even though the engine was running and the car was inside the car, the car sensed the fob was not close and could have locked the car, in a slightly different scenario.

Again, we forget like our smart phones and laptops, you need to do a battery pull and press the on buttons to clear out the static memory.
I've had no problems but I always put the key in my left trouser pocket rather than keeping it in the car which makes me immune to the lock out problem.
 
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