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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello everyone. I have a 2016 Mazda 3 GT sport 2.5L that I am trying to make a little "faster"/ perform better. I am going to get things like a cold air intake and I already have a flow master muffler (although I know this doesn't do much or anything for making it faster). Just wondering if anyone knows what else could be done. My budget is about $2000
 

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2018 Mazda 3 GT
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Lighter weight wheels.
CK
 
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Lighter weight wheels.
CK
To elaborate further in this direction, you're not going to produce much more power to make it worthwhile.
If you live in the canyons or have elevation, your best bet is to have sticky tires and light rims to keep up with cars going downhill, with a tail wind behind you.

Uphill.. going to be aboard the struggle bus the entire way up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
To elaborate further in this direction, you're not going to produce much more power to make it worthwhile.
If you live in the canyons or have elevation, your best bet is to have sticky tires and light rims to keep up with cars going downhill, with a tail wind behind you.

Uphill.. going to be aboard the struggle bus the entire way up.
I live in Edmonton, Alberta so as flat as you can get haha thank for the response though! I appreciate it :)
 

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Hello everyone. I have a 2016 Mazda 3 GT sport 2.5L that I am trying to make a little "faster"/ perform better. I am going to get things like a cold air intake and I already have a flow master muffler (although I know this doesn't do much or anything for making it faster). Just wondering if anyone knows what else could be done. My budget is about $2000
Others, not savvy than I, will a cold air intake make the bottom rpm regimes more soggy? Or, all things being equal, will a CAI always benefit the engine (i.e. denser air and all)? Or is it LESS air intake frictional loss ("static head loss") - often assoc'd with a short ram intake that upsets the OEM designed tuned intake beneficial resonances, actually the type of mod that lessens bottom end torque?

I, for one, like the OVT solution that strengthens bottom end torque and allows you to modify T-Map, and allows you to run a premium fuel (and actually derive benefit from it).
 

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Without a tune, a cold air intake or short ram intake will only add engine sound and possibly cause some hotter air intake temps, especially in traffic conditions, which would reduce engine performance and mpg efficiency.

Combined with a tune, a cold air intake is beneficial for added performance. The stock intake does a very good job though and is hard to outperform.
CK
 
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The factory air cleaner IS a cold-air-intake design. It draws cold air from the front of the car and does not let heated air from a hot engine bay get into the engine intake. This is proven by the fact that my intake-air-temperature on the highway is at ambient temperature, which can't be excelled with an aftermarket design.

As far as an aftermarket air filter being able to more easily flow a larger amount of air into the engine, this may be true, but it is usually at the price of flowing more dirt into the engine as well. Fortunately, the factory air filter can handle all the demands of the factory engine; only if the engine is heavily modified to a much greater horsepower level might a more free-flowing air filter be of any measurable benefit; but again, at the price of more wear from dirt ingestion.
 

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stickers ! i gained about 2 rwhp !
 

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I always say the first upgrade should be tires for better performance , cornering and braking .
OVT tune it for that extra 20whp ... not sure how hp it will add on a 2016 2.5L @arathol would know.
You want faster so think better braking ... better brake pads
 

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*The Electrician*
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I live in Edmonton, Alberta so as flat as you can get haha thank for the response though! I appreciate it :)
Im down in YYC, 👍 welcome. My biggest best advice is to get that jellobowl engine mount out and drop in the Corksport one. 2nd, change out that rear swaybar, day/night difference in handling. At about this point you will start wanting some better brake pads, I recommend the EBC yellows, great stopping power. 4th, buy some super aggressive summer tires on lightweight rims. Great car to toss around at that point. Camber bolts with a custom alignment have some good benefits too. I may have several of the parts you are looking for as I unfortunately will be trading mine in sometime soon here.
 
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Yeah.. what gives and what are you considering?
CK
 

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*The Electrician*
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Yeah.. what gives and what are you considering?
CK
The answer is very simple lol RWD. Looking very very hard at the 2022 BRZ. It would be my very first RWD sports car and I want the experience to add to all the years of FWD so that in the next decade or so I am able to begin as a track instructor. Honestly this will not be an easy choice for me, my Mazda has been absolutely sublime and I still love driving it even 4 years later. As a daily, I can't say enough good things about it, absolute masterpiece. But for track, I want that RWD, and for winter drifting too lol. If I had a way to keep the Mazda while still getting the BRZ, I would, hands down, but that is just not in the cards for me. What's even harder is that my model with the options and manual transmission is STUPIDLY RARE up here. I found 3 in all of Canada that are for sale currently with all my options. So down the road when I want to buy one again, it will be very difficult to find one the way I want it. Nothing is set in stone yet, Im in school right now for another 6 weeks and will not be putting any time into the numbers or putting in a down payment yet. But chances are very likely that in the next 6 months I will be driving a 2022 BRZ.
 

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Nice. I want one too, but need 4 doors for the kids..

I want a 2000 to 2005 NB Miata 1.8L with a 5 or 6 speed or the BRZ for when I'm not hauling others around.
CK
 
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Midnightsky, you've gone sideways /opposite-lock on gravel lease-roads in southern Alberta enough to get your fill of drifting, haven't you? You CAN do that in a FWD, no?
 

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The answer is very simple lol RWD. Looking very very hard at the 2022 BRZ. It would be my very first RWD sports car and I want the experience to add to all the years of FWD so that in the next decade or so I am able to begin as a track instructor. Honestly this will not be an easy choice for me, my Mazda has been absolutely sublime and I still love driving it even 4 years later. As a daily, I can't say enough good things about it, absolute masterpiece. But for track, I want that RWD, and for winter drifting too lol. If I had a way to keep the Mazda while still getting the BRZ, I would, hands down, but that is just not in the cards for me. What's even harder is that my model with the options and manual transmission is STUPIDLY RARE up here. I found 3 in all of Canada that are for sale currently with all my options. So down the road when I want to buy one again, it will be very difficult to find one the way I want it. Nothing is set in stone yet, Im in school right now for another 6 weeks and will not be putting any time into the numbers or putting in a down payment yet. But chances are very likely that in the next 6 months I will be driving a 2022 BRZ.
Gen2 86/BRZ, solid choice....more space than an ND2.... I can't let go of my 3 either.

Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk
 

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*The Electrician*
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Gen2 86/BRZ, solid choice....more space than an ND2.... I can't let go of my 3 either.

Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk
I don't fit in the ND2, legs are way too long, tried, couldn't even sit down. They are also overpriced IMHO. But ya the Gen 2 BRZ hits all the right spots, take something that is already very good at what it does, and make it just a little bit better in all the areas they were lacking. Torque dip fixed, interior gently upgraded, add just a little bit more power, bring out a little more style in the exterior, it hits all the key low points from Gen 1. I LOVE the ducktail rear, looks amazing, add a nice gurney flap to that and you are rocking. Could almost call it a baby MK5 now.
 

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I have a friend is parting out his 1st Gen Speed 3 and is picking up the new Veloster N with DCT. Another RWD to consider.
We are going to track together in early Oct and see if i can keep up ... The N at 275HP but the DCT is heavy at 1,454 kg / 3205 lbs
Im weighting in at 2650 and sporting about 205HP (last years dyno)
 

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I have a friend is parting out his 1st Gen Speed 3 and is picking up the new Veloster N with DCT. Another RWD to consider.
We are going to track together in early Oct and see if i can keep up ... The N at 275HP but the DCT is heavy at 1,454 kg / 3205 lbs
Im weighting in at 2650 and sporting about 205HP (last years dyno)
Is the Veloster N a rwd?
 
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