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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi i am starting this thread, because i cant find anybody selling fender flares, i don't know if there is a thread, but i cant find it, so i am starting a new on, i have a 2012 mazda3 skyactiv, running a 18x9.5 +30 wheels with 235/40/r18, and in need for fender flares for the front, i looked everywhere and cant find, if anybody knows any good ones your help would be much appreciated, also i you know some good universal ones, the size i would need would be much appreciated, since my 3 is stored for the winter and cant access it to measure what size i would need. :)

THANKS
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I've looked at this n was unable to find any ur best bet is get universal flares n make it work.. Needs some work..

I've seen gen 1 with fender glares not gen 2 except a race car


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Seriously, the front fenders will flare 1/2" with a good guy behind the fender roller. Then you shim out the fender and bumper bulkhead and you'll have clearance for 245's or 255's pretty easily. Our wheel setup is similar, I have less offset but more tire, and no rubbing (see signature pic for an idea of what it looks like).
 
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Seriously, the front fenders will flare 1/2" with a good guy behind the fender roller. Then you shim out the fender and bumper bulkhead and you'll have clearance for 245's or 255's pretty easily. Our wheel setup is similar, I have less offset but more tire, and no rubbing (see signature pic for an idea of what it looks like).
Hey, how did you roll your front fenders, did you remove anything, how about inner plastic wells, did you have to remove any??

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Hey, thanks for your help, talked to you on some outer threads and you seem to know what your talking about, how did you roll your front fenders, and how much clearance did you gain in the front, that's my only worry, the rear isn't that bad,but the front is gonna need some work.

thanks
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Seriously, the front fenders will flare 1/2" with a good guy behind the fender roller. Then you shim out the fender and bumper bulkhead and you'll have clearance for 245's or 255's pretty easily. Our wheel setup is similar, I have less offset but more tire, and no rubbing (see signature pic for an idea of what it looks like).

Hey, thanks for your help, talked to you on some outer threads and you seem to know what your talking about, how did you roll your front fenders, and how much clearance did you gain in the front, that's my only worry, the rear isn't that bad,but the front is gonna need some work.

thanks
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Oh shoot, my apologies for missing this one so long.

My fenders were initially rolled by Adrian at FendaRolla.com, I had zero fender modifications before going to him.

The rear fender lip was not pulled via the fender rolling tool, instead Adrian cut out the outermost 1.5" of the fender liner, heated the fender up and pounded the lip in with a deadblow hammer. In my case, I noticed that the sealant/plastic/extra crap that was on the lip, eventually cracked off as I asked him to aggressively flatten the lip. You should protect whatever exposed metal occurs immediately after you notice cracking, especially in the rear since you can't just throw away rear fenders.

The front fenders were done via fender rolling tool. Again, cut out the outer 1.5" of the fender liner. Lots of heat to soften up the paint, and then he took the roller to the metal and went to town on it. The front fenders are thin, soft steel so it really doesn't take much to pull them out. One thing Adrian did really well was to make sure the entire fender stretched outwards, not just the portion below the fenders' "crimp" line -- only getting the lower portion results in a flared look which I did NOT want. Instead he took metal from the extremities of the fender and pulled everything towards the wheel, so the fenders eventually shifted outwards entirely (think Super GT cars). He was reluctant to widen the fender/bumper transition area though, so that is where he left off. Fenders looked like this post-Adrian.



That angled transition from fender to bumper ticked me off though, so I went under the fender itself, unbolted the bumper tab bulkhead and put shims between the fender and the frame itself. 8mm of shims under the bolt closer to the wheel, and 2mm of shims under the bolt closer to the headlight.



Makes a massive difference, this flares out the corner of the fender enough to pull the corner of the bumper with it, which smooths out the transition area and gives you more suspension travel and a cleaner look, AND actually flares the fenders overall another 2-3mm. I fine-tuned the fenders a little bit afterwards with just a heat gun and my gloved-up hands, pulling sectors of it outwards to clean up the lines.



You can see that the transition itself is smooth, but the bumper develops a kink in the side about 2.5" down. This is due to the plastic lip on the backside of the bumper, I ran a knife between the lip and the actual external part of the bumper cover in order to "free up" the bumper and allow it to stretch outwards. This kink is now unnoticeable, and hence the fender pull is barely noticeable even close up.

Again, to recap, the rears were just pounded flat and the fronts were capable of a pull somewhere above 1/2", thanks to Adrian's skills and a few tricks I cooked up. If you somehow need more than 1/2" to fit your wheels and tires though, I think you'd be better served by real fender flares.
 
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Oh shoot, my apologies for missing this one so long.

My fenders were initially rolled by Adrian at FendaRolla.com, I had zero fender modifications before going to him.

The rear fender lip was not pulled via the fender rolling tool, instead Adrian cut out the outermost 1.5" of the fender liner, heated the fender up and pounded the lip in with a deadblow hammer. In my case, I noticed that the sealant/plastic/extra crap that was on the lip, eventually cracked off as I asked him to aggressively flatten the lip. You should protect whatever exposed metal occurs immediately after you notice cracking, especially in the rear since you can't just throw away rear fenders.

The front fenders were done via fender rolling tool. Again, cut out the outer 1.5" of the fender liner. Lots of heat to soften up the paint, and then he took the roller to the metal and went to town on it. The front fenders are thin, soft steel so it really doesn't take much to pull them out. One thing Adrian did really well was to make sure the entire fender stretched outwards, not just the portion below the fenders' "crimp" line -- only getting the lower portion results in a flared look which I did NOT want. Instead he took metal from the extremities of the fender and pulled everything towards the wheel, so the fenders eventually shifted outwards entirely (think Super GT cars). He was reluctant to widen the fender/bumper transition area though, so that is where he left off. Fenders looked like this post-Adrian.



That angled transition from fender to bumper ticked me off though, so I went under the fender itself, unbolted the bumper tab bulkhead and put shims between the fender and the frame itself. 8mm of shims under the bolt closer to the wheel, and 2mm of shims under the bolt closer to the headlight.



Makes a massive difference, this flares out the corner of the fender enough to pull the corner of the bumper with it, which smooths out the transition area and gives you more suspension travel and a cleaner look, AND actually flares the fenders overall another 2-3mm. I fine-tuned the fenders a little bit afterwards with just a heat gun and my gloved-up hands, pulling sectors of it outwards to clean up the lines.



You can see that the transition itself is smooth, but the bumper develops a kink in the side about 2.5" down. This is due to the plastic lip on the backside of the bumper, I ran a knife between the lip and the actual external part of the bumper cover in order to "free up" the bumper and allow it to stretch outwards. This kink is now unnoticeable, and hence the fender pull is barely noticeable even close up.

Again, to recap, the rears were just pounded flat and the fronts were capable of a pull somewhere above 1/2", thanks to Adrian's skills and a few tricks I cooked up. If you somehow need more than 1/2" to fit your wheels and tires though, I think you'd be better served by real fender flares.
Hey thanks for your help, I'm going to be running 18x9.5 +30 235/40/r18, the tire is a little stretched so I'm gonna get some extra clearance, you think a fender roll and some mods on the liner will be good or will I actually need fender flares, I will be lowered but about a finger gap between wheel and fender, also I got rear camber arms and front camber plates so I can adjust my camber.

Thanks
Anthony
 

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You have my specs -- 18x9.5 +37 front, +45 rear, 245/35/18 Bridgestone RE760 with -2.5deg camber front, -2.0deg camber rear. The rest you should be able to figure out yourself.
 
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
You have my specs -- 18x9.5 +37 front, +45 rear, 245/35/18 Bridgestone RE760 with -2.5deg camber front, -2.0deg camber rear. The rest you should be able to figure out yourself.
Oh.. Well you don't poke a lot in the front, and u have +37 offset I only have 7 mm more poke than you so I should be good with the same amount of negative camber and a good fender roll


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