A couple people have mentioned having a collection of dyno charts in a single thread. So I was bored at work and put something together. If I am missing anyone, have the wrong information, or missing information, let me know.
I know, but the only dyno around here has some crazy strict rules to even get on the dyno,
if your car isn't stock they want a 500 dollar deposit, they want to inspect your vehicle, and if anything "doesn't look right" or any loose wiring, then you are no go. I can afford the dyno runs ( 60 bucks for 3 runs ) but that 500 dollar deposit is insane
Agreed as well, lol. Good post idea wing! Gotta keep in mind every dyno as well as engine is different. Engines aren't all created equal, some will have tighter tolerances, etc. than others of the same design. That being said, we should also include the transmission type as that does impact the numbers a bit to my understanding.
Agreed as well, lol. Gotta keep in mind every dyno as well as engine is different. Engines aren't all created equal, some will have tighter tolerances, etc. than others of the same design. That being said, we should also include the transmission type as that does impact the numbers a bit to my understanding.
yep, I was told, by a Mazda employee, that mazda's engines are allowed a tolerance of up to 20% +/- HP/TQ From factory and some other stuff. so you could have 2 of the same engine, one putting out 150whp and one putting out 130whp and that is OK to mazda
20%, I'm calling bullshit on that. In my Bosch plant, the tolerance are super tight for ESP and ABS systems found in a ton of cars on the market. If they have such tight tolerances for a sub-component, the part that actually powers the vehicle has to have tight tolerances as well.
don't know a ton about dynojets but even if all these 3's were run on the exact same dyno, but in different altitudes, temperatures, humidities (barometric pressures), octanes, and factory ecu programs (from what i've read from dynotronics, vary based on where the vehicle is to be sold based on sea level) we would still be seeing different numbers among all these runs.
Not sure if this has been brought up before, but I just stumbled across this and think people would appreciate knowing how much power you get from an intake, exhaust, and headers.
I did mine in 3rd gear because I would hit the speed limiter in 4th gear. (I have an auto) 1:1.31 ratio
I think everyone should post the elevation of where they had their dyno's done. It could explain a lot of the different numbers. My dyno was done at around 1,200ft.
Instead of creating a new thread this seems to be the best place do drop this question, unless I missed something in my searching..
I have the 3 2.0 sedan and eventually want to add some extra pep/noise/feel to the car with intake, exhaust and possibly a few other performance mods..
Some people have mentioned that I shouldn't bother the mods without a professional Dyno adjustment. Is it really that important? What would happen if I didn't Dyno, or waited a few months to Dyno until everything was done first? (FYI I'm looking at $500 for the Dyno, which I could probably talk em down to $400, but that is still a lot of money as I am likely going to do all the installs myself...
A dyno run just tells you how much power you're putting down. A baseline run will help you know where you started with power and you can run after you've done your mods to know where you've ended up. They cost anywhere from 50, for group dyno days, to $80 (at least that's the rates at Church Tuning here in SoCal).